I am going to be painting some cladding for my car in the coming weeks. Last time I painted car parts, I bought the paint premixed in a rattle can for $15 a can. I can get a quart of paint from the same place for around $50. Instead of buying tons of rattle cans, I am planning on spring the parts using a spray gun.


Since it is cladding, there is not going to be any clearcoat. I plan on doing it like the factory, and just painting with onestage paint.

I am going to use a friends spraygun as well as air compressor, but need help on how to mix the paint for spraying, and what I am supposed to use to cut/thin the paint. I read somewhere that a 50% paint 50% thinner is a good place to start, but I was wondering if any of you guys have any experience, and can shed some light.


Prepping the parts is easy, and I am assuming that like when using a rattle can, you lightly sand in between coats to make sure it is smooth.

So, what suggestions or pointers do you have? I am moving into uncharted territory, as I have never tried anything like this before....

Thanks, Justin.

__________________
-Justin

91 560 SEC AMG - other dogs dd
01 Honda S2000 - dogs dd
07 MB ML320 CDI - dd
16 Lexus IS250 - wifes dd

it's automatic.

Hooo-boy! You sure are asking a lot of open ended questions.

Exactly what are you calling "cladding"? Are you referring to the textured lower panels?

What type of spray-gun? HVLP or standard atomizer? What size of nozzle? Regular sprayer or touch-up gun? Gravity feed or suction?

Buy the paint from a "real" paint shop. They will help you out with any reducers or hardeners you will need. You'll pay a little more but the advice will be worth it.

What Mike said. Plus if those cladding pieces are plastic, you'll want to get a flexible additive so it won't crack the first time it flexes. The guys at the paint store should be able to answer all your questions.

Filter your paint.

__________________
Chad
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys

Yes, the cladding are the lower testured panels. I dont know what type of spray gun, but I am sure that it is from barbor freight.


I did plan on buying the paint from the big local shop, so I am doing something right. I will talk to them about mixing the paints, and what hardeners to use.

__________________
-Justin

91 560 SEC AMG - other dogs dd
01 Honda S2000 - dogs dd
07 MB ML320 CDI - dd
16 Lexus IS250 - wifes dd

it's automatic.

No need to sand on the lower panels and in fact you won't be able to sand due to their "pebbled" finish.

Put the car on a lift or jackstands. Clean the textured area using a scrub brush, soapy water, rinse well and dry. Take a pick or scraper and check for any rust or loose paint. Repair any loose paint, rust spots, etc. For spots which have chipped due to rocks I use a basic "body glaze" applied with a natural sponge. Just dab it on and make the finish close. You can also use a small 3" paint roller but the sponge is easiest. Give the area a quick wipe with a 50/50 mix of denatured alcohol and water and let dry.

You can prime the glazed area and any rust repair with a "high build" primer. No need for sandable or weldable primers since you wont be doing either.


Mask at the textured finish line, bumpers and the wheels.Spray the first coat "up" from below. Let 'er sit for about 15 minutes then spray the second coat down. Work the opposite way for each coat. If you start from the rear on the "up" coat then spray the "down" coat from the front.

The reason is the textured finish has to be sprayed from all directions to prevent a "shadowing" effect.

You can clear coat if you're bored and just want to throw money away but I wouldn't bother with "good" clear coat. A couple of rattle cans will do just as well on the textured surfaces.

I'd use the clear coat for SUV's or trucks on those panels.