Was that front or rear? I'm EXTREMELY nervous about replacing the seal on my w126 rear window using the existing 27 year old glass (it was also sitting outside in the elements for the last 5 years or so). 275 is pretty reasonable IMHO.

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TC
Current stable:
- 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL
- 2007 Saturn sky redline
- 2004 Explorer...under surgery.

Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth

I have done this a few times. First time, I was going off of experience with other windows and tried to put the trim in the rubber seal after it was installed. All I ended up with was a bunch of bent trim.

next few times went fine using the FSM procedure described by others. The only thing I'll add is that I like to wrap the rope around twice. This allows me another go round if the rope doesn't pull the seal over the lip the first time. I think this also allows the window to settle in a little better after the second time the rope is pulled through. I usually start on a bottom corner and get the bottom on first. The only leaks I have experienced have been between the glass and rubber, so some sealant there is recommended, shouldn't need anything between the rubber and the sheet metal.

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For Sale: 1982 MB 300TD
1995 Chevrolet Suburban 6.5TD

Sold: 1980 IH Scout Traveler- Nissan SD33T Diesel

im able to to put the trim in after the seal was installed after I lubed the slot well with hand cleaner. The trim goes but the areas where its bent it wont seat but on the areas its not its goes right on. I found hand cleaner to work much better than soap+water to lube the rope and the trim.

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1986 300SDL, 211K,Dealership serviced its whole life
1991 190E 2.6(120k)
1983 300D(300k)
1977 300D(211k)

That was for the front. I had already purchased the window seal from MB and was going to have an installer I know replace the windshield, but anything he had access to was from China, and he was concerned about the glass having the correct curvature. So I ordered the windshield from MB and asked who did their replacements, and they do them in house. Fine, I said and made an appointment. I knew one of the techs there and was asked if I wanted him to do the job. Four hours labor (at $119/hr), and you couldn't tell the car was ever touched. This also included a loaner car (which they had to rent, as they were replacing their loaner fleet), and I was treated like royalty. FYI, the dealer was MB of Huntington on Long Island. Researching this subject on this forum also helped me make my decision, and this is a nice car, not a $500 special like the first one I had.

This is a job worth trying.
My buddy in his 70's and i did it together and neither of us had ever done this before. We decided that if we fail, it was going to be with abandon and enthusiasm.

Put the glass on a box next to the front of the car, inside down
Fit the seal, put synthetic grease in the trim groove and fit the trim all the way around. For the two top separate bits, start at the bottom corner and work upwards toward the join area.
Flip the glass around and insert the rope, making sure there's some overlap by about a foot. Some people like to have it wound around twice, which might help if you make a slip.

The glass guy I watched doing the same job now put butyl around the outside edge of the seal and glass cleaner on the inside bit facing topmost.
I used shaving cream as lubricant.

Roll up the rope ends and toss them onto the middle of the glass.
Pick up the glass with the help of a friend and set it down into its recess with the lip as close to the pinch weld as possible.
At this point check that the trim is still in place (I had mine slip out when inserting the rope which caused me a bit of a headache at the end)
Now, from the inside, pull on the rope nice and slowly, bit by bit left and right, checking everywhere that it's going in nicely, and having your assistant push vertically down on the glass, towards the ground not towards the dash.
Make sure the glass and seal is coming in deep enough for the lip to fold over the pinch weld, and if it doesn't, stop and push, and redo the missed bit with your fingers (or your second revolution of rope).
If the lip comes over the pinch weld, the glass will go where it should be going.

Before we knew it, the glass was home, and we hadn't broken it.

In the corner where the trim had slipped out, the seal slipped inward and I had to use the handle end of a spoon to lever the trim back into the groove. It is an excellent design principle. The trim ensures that the seal is kept square to the glass and doesn't slip down under tension. You'll know what I mean.