Paint/Bondo Questions
 

This spring I want to jump on the RustOleum bandwagon, and repaint my car for under $200. I have a dark grey 300D that most would describe as a "Michigan car." The frame and engine are in good shape, but the body has visual defects, and the "buckets" behind the rear wheel wells have lost their leading corners completely.

1. What color would would be easiest to roll on?

2. Would a white top, black lower 10" and black trim look good?

3. Does properly applied Bondo really cause total failure? I would be filling in a few small dents/dings.

4. What should I do about the rotted out trunk wells?

I used the whole POR15 line to rebuild my trunk wells and lower fenders.
It is pricy but really is a rust killer and strong repair system.

Don't get the plastic body filler(bondo) thicker than 1/4" and it will be fine. Don't get it wet until it is sealed or it will absorb moisture. Rotted metal needs cut and welded new metal in.

Por15 for any remaining rust is a good idea. Paint over it to add some protection as its not made to be a topcoat.


If you have an air compressor, you can get dirt cheap spray guns and spray it with single stage paint. You could do a pretty nice job for $200, quality and longetivity would be much better than a rolled rustoleum job. If you spray outside early in the morning, the bugs and dust are not a big deal.

Does Bondo go onto the bare metal or can you paint it with POR15 and apply the Bondo over the Paint?

Also I painted a large area of a Friends Car with Restoleum Spray Paint (Gray) and within 1 year the paint faded (my Friend never waxed it). Also the paint does not appear to dry as hard as paint made for the Job.

If you use a Spray Gun with an Air Compressor be sure to use something to filter the moisture out of the compressed air to the spray gun (Harbor Freight has them as well a spray guns).

Nothing spoils a paint job like a big blob of water mixed paint!

Bondo wont stick to the POR15. No need to POR15 over the Bondo. Use the POR15 on metal or mesh.

Two things.

Bondo always absorbs water. There are other two component body filler out there that are significantly better. Just check the website for them.

Rustoleum will never make a good car finish. It just is not designed for the job. If you plan on keeping the car more than two years, then use something better. If you are going to keep it under two years, you have to ask yourself is it worth doing the work on the car.

I've never used the Por products myself, but from other's experience and description on the site; they work well. If you are going to go through the trouble of doing the prep, the expence of using Por, you may want to think about investing in better paint and body filler.

I'm planning on keeping the engine forever(Or until an oil cooler line blows on the highway:P)
I plan on keeping the car hopefully through college, as affording a new one is out of the question unless a sub $4k Trailblazer comes along....

I'm just sick of having the car look like crap, and I don't mind investing a couple full days into making it nice.

Back home I have access to an air compressor and several spray guns, I'm just a bit leary of using them(They have been stored for several years)

Does bondo prefer roughed up paint, bare metal, or primed surfaces?

Would JB weld be a better filler for a large dent?

JB Weld is an epoxy, not a filler. It will always show a different texture from metal. Use JB Weld for repairs or to rebuild "hidden" rust areas not in direct view (around the windows, under the headlights, internally, etc.).

POR15 makes a pretty good body material which is extremely durable, easy to sand and it's water-based. It's a bit pricey to be using as body filler for dents. Works great for restoring crushed corners or around the tail lights.

Use a recommended body filler for large areas in order to achieve the best match.