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  #1  
Old 04-23-2009, 04:06 PM
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Question POR-15

"First I've heard of it, apparently made specifically for "heavily corroded battery trays."

Is this stuff any good?

http://www.por15.com/POR-15/productinfo/1GB/ "

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  #2  
Old 04-23-2009, 05:29 PM
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POR-15 is mentioned quite a bit on these forums, Joe. It apparently works quite well, based upon what's been said about it. Chad300TD has had a lot of experience with it and I respect Chad's opinion quite a bit.
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  #3  
Old 04-24-2009, 12:43 AM
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I have had a lot of experience with it in my cars. It works great. My friends who restore detroit iron also love it. I know folks who use it in marine environments and it works great there too.

It's more work to apply (brush, two coats, need to clean surface throughly) and much more expensive than say a spray primer, but its worth it.

I have never seen any rust come back to where I have applied POR-15 under any conditions. Some of those applications are several years old now.

Buy a 'super starter kit' to try it out. When you do buy some, buy a 'six pack'. You just use bits at a time, and its tough to reseal containers - it seals them shut.

dd
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  #4  
Old 05-11-2009, 11:05 AM
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I also use it often and agree with the above recommendations. It forms a very tough and impenetrable coating that stops any rust. I just used it on the spring perch and the end of the swaybar on the SD as I'm rebuilding the front end. I also did a battery tray in the past with it.

Definitely purchase the six pack in the half pint containers............once opened, they're not good for more than a couple of months. Also, you'll need throw away brushes..........no good way to clean them.

Finally, wear latex gloves............any paint that gets on your hands and dries is there for the duration of the skin.
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  #5  
Old 05-11-2009, 02:08 PM
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Here's one of my experiences with POR15.
"The leg bone's connected to the knee-bone...."

If you are planning to paint over the POR15 you have to spray either a primer or the finish color while the second coat is still "drag-tacky" or the spray won't stick.
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  #6  
Old 05-11-2009, 04:39 PM
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Thanks for the advice, all.
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  #7  
Old 05-11-2009, 09:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
I also use it often and agree with the above recommendations. It forms a very tough and impenetrable coating that stops any rust. I just used it on the spring perch and the end of the swaybar on the SD as I'm rebuilding the front end. I also did a battery tray in the past with it.

Definitely purchase the six pack in the half pint containers............once opened, they're not good for more than a couple of months. Also, you'll need throw away brushes..........no good way to clean them.

Finally, wear latex gloves............any paint that gets on your hands and dries is there for the duration of the skin.
Thanks for the advice. I've ruined enough clothes as it is.
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  #8  
Old 05-26-2009, 11:44 AM
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Just did some POR-15 on Norm in the wheel wells that got all chipped up on my trip. It turned out awesome, definitely good stuff.

The foam brushes work the best to apply it, and it dries very smooth. I'm going do a few more spots this weekend with it.
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  #9  
Old 05-27-2009, 05:56 AM
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Just ordered some for the wheel well of UPS. Got the metal welded in, and am just using this as a seam sealer mainly.
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  #10  
Old 07-26-2009, 01:26 PM
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i have a question for you guys ... i'm planning to repair some rust on my w210 and i already ordered the super starter kit from por-15.

my question is ... since there is only surface rust that i'm going to be applying this to, and it's all in visible places like the passenger doors and trunk ... can i apply it on and then sand it down and paint over it?

thanks.
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  #11  
Old 07-26-2009, 10:59 PM
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Once you have sanded/abraded the surface of the POR15 you have negated its sealing properties. It is a resin so it forms a protective "skin". You can do it but it is some tough stuff to sand.

If you are removing surface rust then simply apply a primer before the finish work. Use the POR15 on the underside. It's a real bugger to get prepped for finish painting.
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  #12  
Old 07-28-2009, 02:41 AM
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i see... well i guess i'll have to do it the old fashioned way with naval jelly and sanding.

i can use the por-15 on the underside on some of the spots but that wont be possible with the trunk since the area i need to apply it on is not accessible from the backside.

thanks for your help.
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  #13  
Old 12-15-2009, 07:19 PM
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Are there any stores that retail POR-15, or is it only available on-line? If so, names? Thanks!
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  #14  
Old 12-16-2009, 04:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lawrence1 View Post
i see... well i guess i'll have to do it the old fashioned way with naval jelly and sanding.

i can use the por-15 on the underside on some of the spots but that wont be possible with the trunk since the area i need to apply it on is not accessible from the backside.

thanks for your help.
Call the people at POR. They are very helpful and POR is much a great product. Just make sure that you follow the proper procedure. The floor of my 78 Datzun Z came out great.
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  #15  
Old 12-24-2009, 01:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skid Row Joe View Post
Are there any stores that retail POR-15, or is it only available on-line? If so, names? Thanks!
Most professional paint jobbers will stock it on hand. But buying online may be cheaper.

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