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#16
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That jack hole was from a rust free texas donor. Another forum member purchased the whole corner to use in their welding project and that jack point was leftover. I'm using .035" flux cored wire-I have yet to accumulate enough money to afford a gas cylinder, I'll get there eventually. I didn't both to grind any of that down-it's mostly not visible and what is I'm going to finish with POR-15 epoxy putty.
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1983 240D 3.0T 4-speed manual, now sold 1989 Subaru GL Wagon 5-speed Touring Edition |
#17
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Alright, took out the drivers seat to clean out, and originally intended to fix, but it looks like I'm going to need more than one day. It seems I need to remove a lot just to finish cleaning off all the rust. I want to remove that seat support thing in the second picture. I'll also need to remove those wires and vacuum tubes, should I cut and repair later, or disconnect at the source? Also, should I bother welding, or should I just repair with fiberglass and epoxy putty?
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1983 240D 3.0T 4-speed manual, now sold 1989 Subaru GL Wagon 5-speed Touring Edition |
#18
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JEBalles,
As you know Ive just done this type of stuff. My advice would be to clear out the loose rust, POR-15 and then use epoxy putty. You also have your fuel lines in that area which are not helpful when welding. The technique is: 1.) Coat with POR-15. 2.) Pain in fiberglass sheets with POR-15 to create form of sorts 3.) Put in the EPoxy putty 4.) Overcoat with POR-15's chasis coat black or similar. I have the chassis coat black and the fiberglass for when the time comes. The caveat is that you will not know how bad your issues are until you remove all the undercoat and the sound deadener to see the entire cancerous region. It could be really horrible. dd
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------------------------------- '85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit) '82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car '83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car |
#19
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Has anyone torn out the interior of their w123? The rust has become bad enough that I'm beginning to look for rust free frames with bad drivetrains, but that's still expensive and I'd need an engine lift and everything, probably won't be doing that for a long time. In the mean time I need to tear out a lot of interior, mostly trim and carpeting to protect and prevent fires and I need room to clean out all the damn insulation. My front rocker/wheel well repair isn't going well. What about sandblasting?
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1983 240D 3.0T 4-speed manual, now sold 1989 Subaru GL Wagon 5-speed Touring Edition |
#20
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Well, I've sort of finished the front rocker/wheel well. I worked about 3 days and it ended up being garbage. I'm getting really frustrated. End result looks ok, better than before. Poor paint job on the fender (and bloody trim wouldn't clip back on properly), and lower trip doesn't quite line up. The rocker is mostly epoxy putty to seal it, it looks really lumpy. I got really flustered when I kept finding more rust under the pedals in the floor, those are still open. I just got really lazy and that's what resulted in the putty fix. I've found what looks like a good recipient for my drivetrain: http://capecod.craigslist.org/cto/1267679462.html. Rust-free bodies are rare in N.E. I can't really afford this, but is it too good a deal to pass up, or do these come along periodically?
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1983 240D 3.0T 4-speed manual, now sold 1989 Subaru GL Wagon 5-speed Touring Edition |
#21
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More pictures.
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1983 240D 3.0T 4-speed manual, now sold 1989 Subaru GL Wagon 5-speed Touring Edition |
#22
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Well, I've discovered yet another hole in my floor under the pedal assembly. It doesn't appear to be structural based on the fact that a) I've been driving over some pretty rough roads for a while now and haven't had trouble and b) the sides of that structural pillar are not rusted, only the sheet metal. I plan to repair with fiberglass and epoxy putty.
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1983 240D 3.0T 4-speed manual, now sold 1989 Subaru GL Wagon 5-speed Touring Edition |
#23
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Every, and I mean, EVERY bit of that floor pan is "structural". Unibody, remember?
POR15 and fiberglass is fine to patch holes but what you are working with needs to have metal welded/epoxied/riveted (I don't feel like going into that argument again) into place. Think of your chassis as a cardboard match box (and in fact if you own a Yugo it's an even more apt simile). Pretty stable right? Now, slide the match tray out of it's cardboard shell. Squeeze the shell and what happens? When you remove the floorboard from the unibody equation you are doing the exact same thing. You can roll the empty shell down a flight of stairs (just like driving down a bumpy road) and it will flex and keep it's basic shape. Now, drop a book on the shell which is the equivalent of having a car crash into the side of you. |
#24
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Hmmm. I see. I hadn't thought of an accident. How's this for a compromise: If I patch most of it with new metal welded in, but avoid areas that are problematic (i.e. fuel lines), and then patch said areas with fiberglass. I don't want to do a whole pan replacement or nothing (money and time issues with that).
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1983 240D 3.0T 4-speed manual, now sold 1989 Subaru GL Wagon 5-speed Touring Edition |
#25
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I like the direction you were going with the alternative car - for $400; sounds like a great parts/body source. Assuming you can afford it, might be worth a look if it's close enough.
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83 300d - 390k |
#26
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Yeah, I'd like that too, car sold for only 250 (didn't get to look at it). It would have been a pain to bring it home, though. I'd have to register it (shipping was 600 bucks). Although, my mom was NOT alright with having a parts car on our property, so it doesn't really matter. I'll have to do the swap after college. Until then, I'll continue fixing. I don't mind the work and it'll sound good in a college interview.
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1983 240D 3.0T 4-speed manual, now sold 1989 Subaru GL Wagon 5-speed Touring Edition |
#27
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Quote:
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
#28
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The beginning of my floor pan repair, before and after. This should be the largest patch.
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1983 240D 3.0T 4-speed manual, now sold 1989 Subaru GL Wagon 5-speed Touring Edition |
#29
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That's looking better! If you can find an old washing machine or dryer the sheet metal on them is just the thing for flat repairs. They are coated with GOOD enamel. Make a template of the hole you are filling, cut the piece from the sheet, grind back an inch of the paint and weld it into place. The enamel they use really holds the primer after you weld.
They are not so good for any bends because the enamel tends to crack at the bend. |
#30
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I'm actually using a w123 door that came with the car purchase and I couldn't unload on anyone, figuring that'd be the best to use. I patched up most of the big holes and I'm finishing it with the POR-15 fiberglass that I'm not sure how to use. Advice?
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1983 240D 3.0T 4-speed manual, now sold 1989 Subaru GL Wagon 5-speed Touring Edition |
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