This car had a hole in it which I repaired with a terrible bondo job. I was meaning to do a better job with sheet metal but never got around to it and the rust has spread. I just looked and it seems that the frame has cracked and I think at this point I would need to weld in a piece like dieseldan ended up doing in this thread:

W123 - Advice needed on jack point rust

Anyone know where I can get a piece like that? And where I can get it done near philly?

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1980 300D, 128K

Yes, but that spot (the "dog leg") is a very difficult spot to repair properly. I just shied away from buying a european 300D because of rust in that area on both sides among others. Honestly not worth the effort of fixing, speaking from automotive/mechanic/bodyman experience.

unfortunately i just finished installing a two-tank wvo system. should have fixed the rust first! so i'd like to do some kind of fix on this if at all possible. something to get the most life out of the car.

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1980 300D, 128K

Considering how cheap you can get these cars these days, I would rather find a "decent" example and swap over any parts... rather than dealing with that rust. Is that the only spot rusting on the vehicle, is it sentimental, it really depends on your situation and the resources/skills you have.

If it was me, I'd rather spend the time swapping any/all components onto a relatively rust-free car. To do the job properly isn't worth the money, and doing a so-so job isn't worth the time either. I would just drive it like that till the car dies...

i've just put a lot of time and energy into the car, not to mention money. there are some other rust spots which i need to stop from spreading, but i'm mainly concerned about structural issues, not looks.

maybe i should scrape out the rust, use por-15 and some sheet metal and rivets. and then use my other car for the family.

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1980 300D, 128K

If you're not concerned with perfect looks, and own a welder, you can get creative with some sheet metal and have a functional structure there.

Take about 50 pictures of the area from every angle, and then cut out all of the rust and wire wheel the paint off 2" above there.


I'd make it in about 4 pieces. Make templates from tag board to make it fit, then recreate them on 20ga sheet metal. Tack it together, and keep tacking it till you've got a mostly solid structure. JB quick weld over all the seams, paint the backside, then weld it to the car.

It'd take a few hours per side, but if your handy with a welder, and some metal cutters, I think you could do a good job recreating that.

~Nate

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95 Honda Shadow ACE 1100.
1999 Plymouth Neon Expresso. 2.4 swap, 10.5 to 1 comp, big cams. Autocross time attack vehicle!
2012 Escape, 'hunter" (5 sp 4cyl)

i can almost guarantee you that its rusted from the inside and the rearmost support where the drain hole is is completely rusted and wasted. look at my blog, i did the same repair and helped dan through his. you might consider doing the same, esp if you ever intend to use that rearmost rubber point for a jack point

That will buff out....

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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

hey bob, what you did looks great and i saw dieseldan's work too. that is what i guess i would need to do -- or find someone to rather. any advice on finding a piece like that to weld in? and how much it would cost for someone to do something like that?

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1980 300D, 128K

ken,

junkyard is the place to get it. call around and compare prices.

what i did was ask them to cut the floor in half from wheel well to wheel well. made it easy for them. I believe i paid about $150? i can't remember (nor do i want to)

to have it done, eeek, dont even ask. why? body men dont like to tackle rust b/c they dont want to be liable for anything that they miss (which is easy). it took me a few weeks to identify where the rust was on my vehicle. i am sure if i looked again, i'd find some small patches here and there.

if you have an emotional attachemnt to this vehicle, you're better off doing the work yourself if you have the inclination to do so. a 120V MIG welder, grinder, air compressor, cutting tools, etc.

Another way of fixing this instead of a welder is the use a good quality adhesive form an autobody supply store.First make or find your panel but make sure there is a lip for the adhesive to bond to.After your adhesive has dried then grid it again smooth and apply your body filler.Also if this area does not need to drain and you can get to the back side drill a hole and fill it with autobody expanding foam this will seal the area and keep it air tight.