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Painting by panel
Hi, I've got a car that I would be interested in painting myself. I am actually a 'veteran' painter (housing and buildings) and have a lot of spraying experience with airless rigs as well as HVLP system and some compressor type work.
I am really interested in looking into using an airless rig with the correct tip that will atomize the paint properly. I believe it can be done successfully! There have been many times that I have been spraying something and the finish I'm able to lay down would be nice if it were going over a car body panel. I have never shot a 2 stage job before. Would it be that difficult to do for the first time for me? The deck lid and hood need to be stripped and repainted - thought I would take one off the car at a time and do all the prep work and painting on saw horses. Thoughts or comments?
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Dale 1995 E320 Wagon 185K [SOLD] 1988 260e Sedan 165K 2007 F-150 XLT 188K [SOLD] 2003 Harley Davidson FLTRI Anniversary 26K ----------------------------- 2006 BMW 330Ci 110K - [SOLD]
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#2
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Are you talking about using a Wagner power painter-type gun?
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#3
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I'm sure it could be done...you'll likely have to play with all the variables to get it just right. Aren't those guns used for spraying latex paint only? I'd have to assume that the viscosity is a bit different...and would affect the spray pattern.
Come back and let us know how it turned out! (preferably with pics!!)
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Current cars: 2000 ML55 AMG, 174k miles 2003 C240 T-Modell, 202k miles 1995 S320, 207k Miles |
#4
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Don't do it! Airless guns are not good for painting cars.
I wouldn't even use them on houses. (I can give your the complex answer if you want it.) The only thing that those guns are good for are hosing property management paint on interior walls. You may be able to get away with airless on aluminum siding, but I still prefer brushes. The durability of the final coating is better. (That is part of the complex answer.) HVLP: if you use good quality ones (not the architectural type). For cars, you do not want to take it apart to paint it, and you definately do not want to strip it except in certain rare circumstances. Read this thread: Welcome to the forum, John Realigning body parts on cars is not trivial. It is not like removing a door on a house. Also Mercedes doors are VERY heavy.
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___________________________________________ 2010 Toyota matrix '93 500 SEL A bad addiction. Takes all of my cash. '12 Volvo S80 T6 Needed something that wasn't as hard to deal with as my bad addiction '18 Mazda Miata No more boring cars for everyday transport! |
#5
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HaHaHaHaHa!!!
NO no no a thousand times NO! I bought one of those things back in the 70's or early 80's and only used it to spray exterior shutters or fence railings. They were the pits for anything requiring a fine finish. I have been in the painting trade for over 30 years and (if I must say so) I am an 'accomplished' maestro with a spray unit! Much of my career has been spent in fine homes doing fine finishes for fine folks . I have laid down some pretty fine finishes on cabinets, custom bookshelving, and the like. The unit I would experiment with would be a GRACO Ultra 395 airless unit with maybe a 411 or 511 tip. Pressure control is electronic and very accurate and steady pressure. One of my faults is that I will definately 'go for it' if somebody says "No, it can't/shouldn't be done"! I get a real rush when I prove 'em wrong! 'Course, when I'M proven wrong...well nothing lost ... If I take the time to actually go thru with it, I will certainly post pics!
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Dale 1995 E320 Wagon 185K [SOLD] 1988 260e Sedan 165K 2007 F-150 XLT 188K [SOLD] 2003 Harley Davidson FLTRI Anniversary 26K ----------------------------- 2006 BMW 330Ci 110K - [SOLD]
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#6
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Again do not do it. Airless application is incompatible with automotive paint.
Just for safety's sake do not do it. Take an MSDS of any housepaint you put through the airless gun and compare it to an automotive paint. Notice how much more dangerous automotive paint is. Just comapare the health rating on the HMIS code. If you accidently hit yourself with the steam under the pressures airless guns work it could kill you. Look at this if you do not believe me: https://corporateportal.ppg.com/Refinish/Templates/Base_T4.aspx?NRMODE=Published&NRNODEGUID=%7b63A6C199-F531-441F-B90C-98B1F427FDC8%7d&NRORIGINALURL=%2fNA%2fRefinish%2fPPGRefinish%2f3-0-SafetyHealth%2fEN%2fShopSafety&NRCACHEHINT=NoModifyGuest Flammability: automotive paints are much, much more flammable than even alkyd house paints. They do not even ship the same way because of the significantly lower flash point. You are planning to put highly flammable material (many times more flammable than staight mineral spirits) through an electrically driven gun operating at greater than 1000 p.s.i. for example:mineral spirts flash point = 104 F PPG Deltron Black basecoat flash point = 27 F Yes the flashpoint of the automotive paint is lower than the flashpoint of an alkyd archectural paint. The flash point is below the freezing point of water. Do you really want to spray something that flammable at pressures over 1000 p.s.i. Also, PSI this gun operates with will dramatially change the color, especially if it a metallic. You are familiar with "touch up" issues with airless application. Running automotive paint under those pressures will give you a new definition of bad touch up. There are other reasons not to use an airless gun such as cost (automotive paints are very expensive and the transfer efficiency of airless guns is quite poor). But from a safety aspect alone and your unfamilarity with automotive finishes
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___________________________________________ 2010 Toyota matrix '93 500 SEL A bad addiction. Takes all of my cash. '12 Volvo S80 T6 Needed something that wasn't as hard to deal with as my bad addiction '18 Mazda Miata No more boring cars for everyday transport! |
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