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wire wheel vs heat gun and chisel undercoating removal
I have been working my way around my incredibly rusty car (thead about it- http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/emergency-rust-repairs-t-1276.html)
and at first I was trying to remove the undercoating with a wire wheel mounted to my drill, which is a decent dewalt. That was not working all that great, so I switched to the heat gun and chisel idea I read on here, which while effective, was painfully slower. Finally I went and got a heavy duty wire wheel that fit on the the end of my angle grinder, and thats the way to go IMO. Cuts properly through the undercoating in seconds. Now its a non issue, and before it was driving me crazy. This has made a huge huge difference in the speed of my rust work on this car, figured Id post and say if you do not have a heavy wire wheel for your angle grinder and are working on rust, get one! Don't try and use the drill mounted wheel attachments over a grinder attachment. Like a pinto vs a viper. Seems like a small difference between the two, but I wasted a lot of time assuming that the wheel was not going to be as effective before I got this attachment, because I "knew" it was not working that great on the spongy undercoating.
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Quote:
Side note, I did find out (almost accidentally) 3M brand 'Gravitex' is now used in MB dealer body shop when replacing the coating. AND if you don't mind having to get the under body meticulously clean, Herculiner brand paint on bed liner is also good as long as you have good ventilation.
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1987 300D (230,000 mi on a #14 head-watching the temp gauge and keeping the ghost in the machine) Raleigh NC - Home of deep fried sushi! |
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