So today i was about to leave for school, i decided to do a walk around to my car (i was tired and idk what i was doing) and my sleepy eyes saw this!!!


Than i got closer and saw THIS!!!


Than i got even CLOSER AND LOOKED UNDER AND SAW THIS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



ITS A ROT SPOT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! AAHAHAHHHAHAH

So what do i do now, do i clean it and spray some rustolem and use bondo to patch that gaping hole??? What do you guys advice!!!

__________________
Current Garage
2008 Mercedes GL320 CDI 188k mi Repair/Work in progress
1994 S350 160k mi Garage Queen & prepping for repairs
2005 E320 CDI 203k mi Healthy & Daily Driver
1994 S350 357k mi Retried as parts car
1984 300TD 214k mi Blown OM617 Poss OM603 Swap??

Sold
1987 300SDL 200K+
1994 S320 181K mi
2008 E320 Bluetec 127k mi
1999 S420 130K mi
1980 240D 360k mi
15+ Others that has come, stay and gone

GONE, BUT NOT FORGOTTEN
1995 E320 SE 220k mi
1984 300SD 350k mi

That looks like a jack point, so it would need much more than bondo.

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

^ Agreed.

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83 SD

84 CD

I know how ya feel man, never a good feeling when you see it...



You'd need to cut it out and reweld in the metal. I got lucky with mine - the picture was taken after I retired it.

__________________
TC
Current stable:
- 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL
- 2007 Saturn sky redline
- 2004 Explorer...under surgery.

Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth

Well for temporary fixes i ll be carrying a 2 ton floor jack for now on.

__________________
Current Garage
2008 Mercedes GL320 CDI 188k mi Repair/Work in progress
1994 S350 160k mi Garage Queen & prepping for repairs
2005 E320 CDI 203k mi Healthy & Daily Driver
1994 S350 357k mi Retried as parts car
1984 300TD 214k mi Blown OM617 Poss OM603 Swap??

Sold
1987 300SDL 200K+
1994 S320 181K mi
2008 E320 Bluetec 127k mi
1999 S420 130K mi
1980 240D 360k mi
15+ Others that has come, stay and gone

GONE, BUT NOT FORGOTTEN
1995 E320 SE 220k mi
1984 300SD 350k mi

Check inside the car for wet carpets and try and see if there is a drain somewhere that should be draining somewhere other than into the sill...

...I know it is like looking for more trouble but it is better to know sooner rather than later.

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

The rot is not on the jack point the jack point is perfect no rot it's under it where the rubber pad is located by the passenger side the rest of them are fine, I think bond might work.

__________________
Current Garage
2008 Mercedes GL320 CDI 188k mi Repair/Work in progress
1994 S350 160k mi Garage Queen & prepping for repairs
2005 E320 CDI 203k mi Healthy & Daily Driver
1994 S350 357k mi Retried as parts car
1984 300TD 214k mi Blown OM617 Poss OM603 Swap??

Sold
1987 300SDL 200K+
1994 S320 181K mi
2008 E320 Bluetec 127k mi
1999 S420 130K mi
1980 240D 360k mi
15+ Others that has come, stay and gone

GONE, BUT NOT FORGOTTEN
1995 E320 SE 220k mi
1984 300SD 350k mi

I had the same thing happen to me, so I know the feeling.

__________________
Stop paying for animal enslavement, cruelty, and slaughter. Save your health and the planet. Go vegan! I did 18 years ago. https://challenge22.com/

DON'T MESS WITH MY MERCEDES!


1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C
1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Highly Optioned, 350,000+ Miles

Until you take it into the shop where they actually use a lift from those points and it sinks 2 feet into the passenger compartment

__________________
TC
Current stable:
- 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL
- 2007 Saturn sky redline
- 2004 Explorer...under surgery.

Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth

That is some serious rust. Rustolium and Bondo will not fix that. that is like cancer, and putting a band-Aid over to hide it. It is still there and growing.

The only way to fix it, is to cut it out and replace with good metal and/or a new rocker.

Look through the JY for a 126 with good rockers and cut them out or buy new ones. all depends on how much you love the old classic, and how long you plan on keeping it. repairing it right, might exceed the value. then it all depends what value you see in it, not necessarly the Blue Book Value.

There is a place back east Called Sherman that carries new body panels, but for the 126 only show the front fenders available.

This place in Germany carries quite a few parts. shipping could be costly.

http://www.mercedes-reparaturbleche.de/w_126.html

Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

X2

and chances are, if you do a thorough inspection, you'll find plenty more where that came from.

__________________
1983 240D 3.0T 4-speed manual, now sold

1989 Subaru GL Wagon 5-speed Touring Edition

Bondo will not fix this. It needs to be attended to properly. If you're of average skill, can read directions, and have about 500 bucks to spend you can learn to wire feed arc weld, it's really not that bad. If you plan on using 18 guage or thicker metal to take care of this region you can even use "flux-cored" wire, meaning you won't have to bother with the oxygen mixtures needed for Mig welds.

I wish I had a welding set, I wish i had a metal source. I really don't have the $$$ or time to do some welding..

__________________
Current Garage
2008 Mercedes GL320 CDI 188k mi Repair/Work in progress
1994 S350 160k mi Garage Queen & prepping for repairs
2005 E320 CDI 203k mi Healthy & Daily Driver
1994 S350 357k mi Retried as parts car
1984 300TD 214k mi Blown OM617 Poss OM603 Swap??

Sold
1987 300SDL 200K+
1994 S320 181K mi
2008 E320 Bluetec 127k mi
1999 S420 130K mi
1980 240D 360k mi
15+ Others that has come, stay and gone

GONE, BUT NOT FORGOTTEN
1995 E320 SE 220k mi
1984 300SD 350k mi

Hmmm...

Nasty!--Ive been in this situation just recently when my W123 Wagon failed its yearly MOT (Roadworthyness) test, on exactly the same areas, --Both sides...

--This is a Structural Area near the Rear Subframe Mounting!!

Only proper cure is cut out the rot and replace with good steel.

This is how I did it.....

I cut away the outer sill (rocker-panel) at a point 1/2 inch or so below the row of holes that the trim-strip under the doors is held by.

From the wheel-arch rim, I made that cut 17" forward, then vertically down to where the sill meets the floor-pan.

Rot was so bad, I was able to peel the outer section I had cut away leaving a Huge gap, it basically just fell off, showing much 'cobbling' poor welded patches, and 'bondo', bits of rags and pages of 'professional car-body' magazine paper dated 2005 screwed up to hold the bondo....

This removed, I was able to gain access to the inner sill section and cut its lower 1-1.5" away back to good steel--This is the section which is shaped around the subframe-mountings.

I also deleted the jacking-point at this time.

I measured up and made a new section which curves around the subframe-mount and welded it in. Continuous seam welding is important in this structural area and tacking, rivetting, brazing, glueing, bondo or anything else will not be sufficient to gain an MOT (UK) 'Pass'

--I have NO idea the 'local' requirements for vehicle inspections in other parts of the world, or their strictness with regards corrosion in structural areas....

--This having been done, I turned attention to the inner wheel-arch at the bottom lip where it attaches to the front end of the outer wheel-arch. This was also rotten--And, so will yours be! (VERY common rot-point this area!)

Again, this was all cut out to a point approx halfway into the wheel-arch above the drive-shaft and replaced with seam-welded steel.

This done, a new outer sill (rocker) section was made, ---which was fun, as the curved inner section means that the lower edge of the outer must follow the same shape....
Not hard, just a little fiddly...I also made a lip on this panel to allow ease of seam-welding to the new inner section.

I carefully tack-welded this first to avoid distortion of the metal and then carefully seam-welded the outer in place.

I then re-painted the bare steel in etch-primer and stone-chip resistant paint.

For the inner section rustproofing I used waxoyl poured in through the rear-seat-belt mount hole that is immediately above the repaired area. For good measure an aerosol of waxoyl was also used through each of the holes the trim-strip was secured by, before replacing the trim-strip....

The job both sides took me two weeks of afternoons to complete, I didn't rush the job and did some other work like replace the rear springs at the same time.
--Its a BIG job to repair these areas properly and more importantly, SAFELY. Worth remembering the rear seat belt mount and subframe mounts are in this 'Prescribed Area' as defined by UK MOT, as 'Structural' being a 'Monocoque' (Unibody) construction....

__________________
http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z...0TDnoplate.jpg

Alastair AKA H.C.II South Wales, U.K. based member

W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K,
-Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog.

W114, 1975 280E Custard Yellow,
-Great above decks needs chassis welding--Really will do it this year....

That's a problem.........