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  #16  
Old 10-14-2010, 04:55 PM
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Army - I just might have some DDT. do you need some? Shipping may be the deal breaker though.

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1981 300TD "The Green Lantern"
1980 300TD
1983 300D Euro "China Cat"
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  #17  
Old 10-15-2010, 09:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StaggerLee View Post
Army - I just might have some DDT. do you need some? Shipping may be the deal breaker though.
I've got a feeling that we're now being tracked by an international illegal pesticide task force... we'd better stop this communication now!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #18  
Old 10-15-2010, 09:46 AM
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Toxins R Us . . . .
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1998 Lincoln Continental - Sold
Max 1984 300TD 285,000 miles - Sold
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  #19  
Old 10-18-2010, 02:07 PM
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Weekend Progress...

I got the underside cleaned up where my welds are. The under coating comes off a lot easier once it's been on fire

Then I got the inside cleaned up

and did the POR-15 routine.

AND FINALLY...
Attached Thumbnails
StaggerLee's Rust Repair Thread 1980 300TD-newfloorallclean.jpg   StaggerLee's Rust Repair Thread 1980 300TD-por-15onthefloor2.jpg   StaggerLee's Rust Repair Thread 1980 300TD-por-15onthefloor.jpg   StaggerLee's Rust Repair Thread 1980 300TD-undersideallclean.jpg  

Last edited by whunter; 06-27-2011 at 06:42 PM. Reason: attached pictures
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  #20  
Old 10-18-2010, 02:09 PM
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looking good - funny you should mention the fire thing for underseal removal - I've been combining a heat gun and an angle grinder with a wire brush attachment recently...
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #21  
Old 10-18-2010, 02:29 PM
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Some smart a$$...

Put this on the car...


These are the passenger side...


On the top side, I cleaned up the rusty spots with a wire wheel and painted with POR 15 for now. On the underside, I'll remove the undercoating where the holes are, clean off the glue/rubber residue and apply a small piece of foil-backed adhesive roof patch and recover with undercoating. (It's a repair to get through the winter) The stuff I'm using is maybe 1/16" and comes in 6" wide roll. I've seen it used on the floor with good success.
Attached Thumbnails
StaggerLee's Rust Repair Thread 1980 300TD-fourhourerection.jpg   StaggerLee's Rust Repair Thread 1980 300TD-passengersiderust2-1.jpg   StaggerLee's Rust Repair Thread 1980 300TD-passengersiderust3-1.jpg   StaggerLee's Rust Repair Thread 1980 300TD-passengersiderust-1.jpg  

Last edited by whunter; 06-27-2011 at 06:44 PM. Reason: attached pictures
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  #22  
Old 10-25-2010, 01:05 AM
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Ahh so this is where this car ended up.... :p
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1981 300TD 4 speed manual
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  #23  
Old 10-25-2010, 03:50 PM
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It's in good hands, Mike!
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  #24  
Old 10-25-2010, 04:54 PM
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Done...

OK...Once I got the floor painted with POR-15, I applied a layer of this...


And here' the underside. I put seam sealer where metal overlapped and then sprayed that and the welds with undercoating.


Almost put back together...


My nephew, Dustin, starts Driver's Education next month so he'll be taking his driving test in February. He can have the car after he's taken MY driver education course It includes things they don't teach you in class like how to maintain your diesel Mercedes, snow/ice driving, drifting and stopping and where not to park with your girlfriend

I saw another NA wagon today with a bad transmission...Hmmm I just happen to have an extra trans for that car. Honey, call my therapist!!!
Attached Thumbnails
StaggerLee's Rust Repair Thread 1980 300TD-dsc01841.jpg   StaggerLee's Rust Repair Thread 1980 300TD-dsc01842.jpg   StaggerLee's Rust Repair Thread 1980 300TD-dsc01843.jpg  

Last edited by whunter; 06-27-2011 at 06:45 PM. Reason: attached pictures
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  #25  
Old 10-26-2010, 04:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StaggerLee View Post
...I saw another NA wagon today with a bad transmission...Hmmm I just happen to have an extra trans for that car. Honey, call my therapist!!!
Ha ha - so we'll be seeing another epic welding thread then?
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #26  
Old 10-26-2010, 07:35 AM
stricht8
 
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Nice work. It now has a new lease on life and will be ready to tackle another winter. What is everyone here using to duplicate the original undercoating? The 3M body schutz and the other spray on undercoatings are just not as rubbery.
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  #27  
Old 10-26-2010, 08:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dseretakis View Post
Nice work. It now has a new lease on life and will be ready to tackle another winter. What is everyone here using to duplicate the original undercoating? The 3M body schutz and the other spray on undercoatings are just not as rubbery.
I'm not bothering - I'm using POR15 and their chassis top coat. I want to see if it still rusts underneath. I don't believe in covering up stuff with undercoat. I'm relying on my own regular inspections to keep my car in good condition.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #28  
Old 10-26-2010, 08:34 PM
stricht8
 
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I agree with you that your approach is probably better but I just want to keep it looking original down to the texture of the undercoating.
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  #29  
Old 10-27-2010, 02:57 PM
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If you want rubbery, I think you need to go with something more like a spray on bedliner material. The stuff I used isn't completely hard but it's definitely harder than the original.
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1980 300TD
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  #30  
Old 10-27-2010, 04:52 PM
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I use Mar-Hyde. I get it from Ace Hardware but just about any parts store will carry it. It doesn't compare to the original coating as far as prevention but it is easy to match the texture.

I apply this over whatever rust proofing method I am using (POR-15, Jasco, galvanize in a can, etc.)) simply to match the original texture. Blend it in using an old paint brush, sponge or rag.

Rear fenderwell rust

The last few pics show the Mar-Hyde.


Last edited by Mike D; 10-27-2010 at 05:04 PM.
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