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#16
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Army - I just might have some DDT. do you need some? Shipping may be the deal breaker though.
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1981 300TD "The Green Lantern" 1980 300TD 1983 300D Euro "China Cat" |
#17
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I've got a feeling that we're now being tracked by an international illegal pesticide task force... we'd better stop this communication now!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#18
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Toxins R Us . . . .
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" We have nothing to fear but the main stream media itself . . . ."- Adapted from Franklin D Roosevelt for the 21st century OBK #55 1998 Lincoln Continental - Sold Max 1984 300TD 285,000 miles - Sold The Dee8gonator 1987 560SEC 196,000 miles - Sold Orgasmatron - 2006 CLS500 90,000 miles 2002 C320 Wagon 122,000 miles 2016 AMG GTS 12,000 miles |
#19
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Weekend Progress...
I got the underside cleaned up where my welds are. The under coating comes off a lot easier once it's been on fire
Then I got the inside cleaned up and did the POR-15 routine. AND FINALLY... Last edited by whunter; 06-27-2011 at 06:42 PM. Reason: attached pictures |
#20
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looking good - funny you should mention the fire thing for underseal removal - I've been combining a heat gun and an angle grinder with a wire brush attachment recently...
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#21
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Some smart a$$...
Put this on the car...
These are the passenger side... On the top side, I cleaned up the rusty spots with a wire wheel and painted with POR 15 for now. On the underside, I'll remove the undercoating where the holes are, clean off the glue/rubber residue and apply a small piece of foil-backed adhesive roof patch and recover with undercoating. (It's a repair to get through the winter) The stuff I'm using is maybe 1/16" and comes in 6" wide roll. I've seen it used on the floor with good success. Last edited by whunter; 06-27-2011 at 06:44 PM. Reason: attached pictures |
#22
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Ahh so this is where this car ended up.... :p
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1981 300TD 4 speed manual Euro bumpers, zender valance and skirts, H&R springs, billy HD's, leveled sls, real AMG Pentas 16x8 et11, vdo boost/egt gauges intergrated into ash tray, eurolights, led 3rd brake light |
#23
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It's in good hands, Mike!
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1981 300TD "The Green Lantern" 1980 300TD 1983 300D Euro "China Cat" |
#24
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Done...
OK...Once I got the floor painted with POR-15, I applied a layer of this...
And here' the underside. I put seam sealer where metal overlapped and then sprayed that and the welds with undercoating. Almost put back together... My nephew, Dustin, starts Driver's Education next month so he'll be taking his driving test in February. He can have the car after he's taken MY driver education course It includes things they don't teach you in class like how to maintain your diesel Mercedes, snow/ice driving, drifting and stopping and where not to park with your girlfriend I saw another NA wagon today with a bad transmission...Hmmm I just happen to have an extra trans for that car. Honey, call my therapist!!! Last edited by whunter; 06-27-2011 at 06:45 PM. Reason: attached pictures |
#25
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Ha ha - so we'll be seeing another epic welding thread then?
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#26
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Nice work. It now has a new lease on life and will be ready to tackle another winter. What is everyone here using to duplicate the original undercoating? The 3M body schutz and the other spray on undercoatings are just not as rubbery.
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#27
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I'm not bothering - I'm using POR15 and their chassis top coat. I want to see if it still rusts underneath. I don't believe in covering up stuff with undercoat. I'm relying on my own regular inspections to keep my car in good condition.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#28
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I agree with you that your approach is probably better but I just want to keep it looking original down to the texture of the undercoating.
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#29
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If you want rubbery, I think you need to go with something more like a spray on bedliner material. The stuff I used isn't completely hard but it's definitely harder than the original.
__________________
1981 300TD "The Green Lantern" 1980 300TD 1983 300D Euro "China Cat" |
#30
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I use Mar-Hyde. I get it from Ace Hardware but just about any parts store will carry it. It doesn't compare to the original coating as far as prevention but it is easy to match the texture.
I apply this over whatever rust proofing method I am using (POR-15, Jasco, galvanize in a can, etc.)) simply to match the original texture. Blend it in using an old paint brush, sponge or rag. Rear fenderwell rust The last few pics show the Mar-Hyde. Last edited by Mike D; 10-27-2010 at 05:04 PM. |
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