300SD Rust Restoration Project - Page 5 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

JamesDean · #61 02-17-2011, 04:12 PM

Update:

It was a nice day today so I decided it was time to start these diesels. The Gold SD took some charging to get it started but once it started it ran fine and the charging system worked perfectly, 13.8v at idle.

Green SD started right up first try. It made this god-awful metal scraping sound when I revved it a bit. I quickly discovered the location of a hood spring. It had fallen somehow below the radiator fan. I pulled it out and flushed out the engine block (new rad) and refilled with Zerex G05 coolant.

I also cleaned up the garage a bit (and by cleaned I mean just swept into a pile to be dealt with later) I've got about a 1/2 dozen items left to do to the car, at least until Hit Man X ships me my package of parts/tools.

I'm going to gut the entire trunk as well. I'll seal any and all non-factory holes and make sure the rear window is repaired as well.

Here some pics of the garage, its a bit messy. I got into the habit of throwing **** under the car as I was working on it. LOL

JamesDean · #62 02-21-2011, 06:31 PM

Update:

Started back up on the passenger side, a patch to an area where it looked like some metal has been lost. I'd read a thread earlier in the month about someone's front subframe cracking at that point due to a crack/loss of metal. So I welded what appeared to be a seam underneath the patch and then added that patch over top. Its 16GA..

Next I cleaned up the rest of the horn, after seeing what had happened to the driver side... Not AS bad however it might be difficult to fix as the metal on the driver side was difficult.

Finally I added some L type steel to the floor plan, trying to mimic the opposite side...

So not too much work to be done on the last area to need welding...

JamesDean · #63 03-01-2011, 10:54 PM

Update:

Just about finished the last of the welding to be done...

Welded a piece over the front of the horn as it was spotted with small holes. Aside from the holes everything was solid. Also patched up the floor pan inside. Just have to put a piece where the feet end up at and welding is all finished.

Tomorrow I'll finish coating the horn and that stuff.

JamesDean · #64 03-04-2011, 12:20 PM

Update:

Heavily coated the underside of that horn. These coatings are pretty robust. I had some of that rust encapsulator on a jackstand (it dripped down) and I hit the stand with the wirewheel (to stop the angle grinder) and it didn't even effect stuff. Same deal with the all-metal filler. I had a grinding wheel on and I was cleaning up a chisel I used to mix stuff with..took a good amount of time to clean up the chisel.

All welding on the undercarriage is complete. There is only one spot left to be welded, I'll have to pass it off to my uncle or someone else. I cant seem to get any thing to stick.

I was replacing the jack pad today and found more rust/holes. So I repaired them. I think it came out pretty good.

Here some pics:

And here is the welding work on the jack point:

And finally the troublesome spot that I cant seem to get to weld up..

JamesDean · #65 03-04-2011, 07:51 PM

Update:

Gutted the trunk. Lots of surface rust from the water leaks. Cleaned up as best as I could with the wire wheel. Sprayed on the rust converter...letting it setup for a few days..then everything is gonna get painted black and the wheel arches will be rubberized.

Once thats complete, rear window can be pulled and rebuilt/resealed/etc.

JamesDean · #66 03-13-2011, 08:10 PM

Update:

Trunk is finished. The wells have all been painted and rubberized. I took my LED light and made sure that there was no light coming in from outside. She's sealed. I also replaced the steering wheel with one from the first gen 190E. Smaller wheel. Air bag (ever so useful LOL).

Now I've gotta have the rear window pulled and the seal replaced. I was looking at the seal last night, its REALLY bad. Theres cracks every 3" across the top of it and its flipped upwards on the sides.

I also spotted the drivers door check strap area that looks like it could use some welding done to it. I wish I had an aerosol of the thistle green metallic paint so I could paint it to match. I dont wanna use black there it'll look crappy.

After that there are only a few things left body wise:
1) Grind/Install Rear Driver Lift Pad
2) Silicone Seal Repair Rear Passenger Door Seal
3) Window Seal and Sill Repair (Probably will be needed)

Then Mechanical work will start once I get my package from my buddy in TX.

JamesDean · #67 03-15-2011, 03:12 PM

Update:

Riveted in the final piece of metal. Sealed and then painted it. I can't seem to find my sound deadening roll anywhere. Not sure where it rolled off to...

Also installed the last lift pad. I found a missing grommet that I don't have. Gonna have to order that..hopefully with a larger order. I'd hate to pay shipping from MBUSA on a quarter sized grommet.

I also cleaned up the garage, mostly. There is a large conglomeration of **** in the upper right corner. But at least now, it fits two SDs.

JamesDean · #68 03-22-2011, 11:18 AM

Update: Rear Glass Removed. I was told to expect rust in the sill. I fully expected to have it mostly gone on this car. It has rust everywhere else..so why not the pinchweld/sill..

Much to my surprise, there is none.

New seal comes in tomorrow, fresh from MBUSA.

I asked the guy if the replacement glass had the heater lines at 1" or 4mm like the factory. He wasn't sure. Its most likely 1" however one can always hope.

JamesDean · #69 08-29-2011, 03:35 PM

I've started up on my other SD, it has its own thread over here:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/bodywork-repair-paint-tools-tips-tricks/304380-300sd-rust-restoration-project-2-a.html#post2780594

Theres some differences in the way I'v decided to do this one..and some more (and less) work too.

JamesDean · #70 12-01-2012, 08:35 PM

Stretch · #71 12-02-2012, 04:00 AM

Do the pictures work for other people?

I'm interested to see how the repairs have lasted - this kind of feedback is quite hard to find.

I'm still wavering on the subject of to do or not to do epoxy primers...

Mojoan · #72 12-02-2012, 10:03 AM

No pics don't work for me neither.

JamesDean · #73 12-02-2012, 11:10 AM

http://i.imgur.com/JSgg2.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/zZHn9.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/IGYX6.jpg

JamesDean · #74 12-03-2012, 12:59 PM

It seems imgur wasn't making the large thumbnail pictures so they wernt showing up.

I just left them as links for now.. I'll try to redo later.

Here Link to one album:

http://imgur.com/a/uMY3i

funola · #75 09-08-2013, 05:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JamesDean

Update: Rear Glass Removed. I was told to expect rust in the sill. I fully expected to have it mostly gone on this car. It has rust everywhere else..so why not the pinchweld/sill..

Much to my surprise, there is none.

...

Probably because that's the original glass with no leaks. As long as no water get in and lingers there's no rust.

That's an amazing amount of work and dedication!