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  #1  
Old 12-10-2010, 10:08 PM
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Rusted Out Lower Hood Hinge Repair; No Welding

For those like myself driving a “Rust Bucket” and have rusted out holes where the lower Hood Arm Hinges on the body. Also on mine the Lower Hinge Bushing that was once Spot Welded to the Body is rusted onto the Lower Arm of the Hood Hinge. (I worked on one side at a time.)

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Rusted Out Lower Hood Hinge Repair; No Welding-.jpg   Rusted Out Lower Hood Hinge Repair; No Welding-aa.jpg  
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Old 12-10-2010, 10:14 PM
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In order to remove the complete Hood Hinge mechanism I would have had to remove a Bolt (the upper Hood Hinge pivots off of that Bolt) that is way to the rear and inside of the tunnel where the Hood Spring goes. Besides being Hard to get at I was worried that that Bolt might be rusted in pace. So, I did not attempt to remove it/them.
So, I decided to drill out the central Pivot that riveted on with a ½” Drill Bit. The Metal is soft and I had no problem drilling it/them.
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Rusted Out Lower Hood Hinge Repair; No Welding-b1.jpg   Rusted Out Lower Hood Hinge Repair; No Welding-b2.jpg   Rusted Out Lower Hood Hinge Repair; No Welding-b3.jpg  
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  #3  
Old 12-10-2010, 10:19 PM
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Having only the small Arm with Bushing of the Hood Hinge mechanism to deal with made it easier to work on. The Steel Bushings on both of the Arms were both Rusted on solid.
I did a lot of heating and spraying the Bushing/Arm with Oil in hopes of loosening it. What I found got the Bushing to move was getting a Chisel between the Bussing and the Arm and beating the Chisel. I could not have done this without a Vise.
After I got it to move a little bit (but still pretty solid and would not turn) I sprayed on some more Oil and let it sit over night.
The next day some more Beating on the chisel got the 2 parts to separate.
The now distorted Bushing need to be hammered back into shape.
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Rusted Out Lower Hood Hinge Repair; No Welding-c1.jpg   Rusted Out Lower Hood Hinge Repair; No Welding-c2.jpg   Rusted Out Lower Hood Hinge Repair; No Welding-c3.jpg  
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Old 12-10-2010, 10:24 PM
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For the Rust I Wire Brushed off as much as I could and treated it with Jasco Rust Treatment. This treatment just turns the Rust black but does not coat it with anything.
I did not want it coated with any thing because I wanted the Epoxy I was going to use to stick directly to the Metal.
Besides the Hinge holes being rusted thorough there was a large rusted area on the passenger side.
After the Jasco had time to cure I applied Epoxy Putty into any of the rust holes that I found. The other rusty areas were painted with Rustolem Rusty Metal Primer.
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Rusted Out Lower Hood Hinge Repair; No Welding-d1.jpg   Rusted Out Lower Hood Hinge Repair; No Welding-d2.jpg  
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Old 12-10-2010, 10:28 PM
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When I examined the holes where the Bushings had pulled out of the metal I noticed that on both sides there was a little bit of a semicircular area and 1 hole where one of the Spot Welds had been pulled out.

The semicircular areas were the only way I to line them back up close to were they were supposed to be.
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Rusted Out Lower Hood Hinge Repair; No Welding-e1.jpg   Rusted Out Lower Hood Hinge Repair; No Welding-e2.jpg  
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Old 12-10-2010, 10:37 PM
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The holes were bigger than the Bushings so I used JB Weld to Epoxy as much area of the Bushing to Metal As I could; along with lining it up as best I could.
(Because the Bushing is not going to go back exactly where it belongs I found I had to removes some metal from the tip of the Pivot Pin and also the Rear of the Pivot Pin so I could squeeze the Arm Back into the tunnel after the Epoxy on the Bushing had dried.)
Once the Bushing JB Weld Epoxy had dried and I had checked to see it was at least close to allowing the Arm to function properly I packed around the Bushing and any empty areas around the Bushing with Epoxy Putty.
Attached Thumbnails
Rusted Out Lower Hood Hinge Repair; No Welding-f1.jpg   Rusted Out Lower Hood Hinge Repair; No Welding-f2.jpg   Rusted Out Lower Hood Hinge Repair; No Welding-f3.jpg   Rusted Out Lower Hood Hinge Repair; No Welding-f4.jpg   Rusted Out Lower Hood Hinge Repair; No Welding-f5.jpg  

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Old 12-10-2010, 10:40 PM
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On one side I drilled out and tapped the central Pivot Pin for a ¼” course Bolt to replace the crimped over end I had drilled out. On the other side I got lazy and am trying Epoxy to hold the Pin in.
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Old 12-10-2010, 10:41 PM
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On both sides I had trouble with the lower Arm tracking inside of the tunnel it goes into. This required me to remove the Arms a bunch of times and do some trial and error bending of the Arms.

I am guessing that the job took 3-4 hours for each side to do. It tool about 1 hour per Arm just to worry the rusted on Bushings off and you send a lot of time waiting for Epoxy to cure or Paint to dry.
On the Epoxy I used a Hair Dryer to get it to cure faster.

Now I can open my Hood with out having to use a stick to hold it up. Also I can not sand my Hood straight up.
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Old 12-10-2010, 11:37 PM
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Great job man
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Old 12-11-2010, 08:28 AM
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Good work around. Keep us informed of the long term durability of this repair.




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Old 12-11-2010, 12:43 PM
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Nice job - I had real troubles drilling out the bolt on the lower hinge on my car. This area is a bit of an Achilles' heel for the W123.
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  #12  
Old 12-11-2010, 05:25 PM
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On mine like many just the price of never being lubricated for many years. The bushing seizes to the pin and the bushing tears out of the sheet metal.

Kind of moderatly tough to weld in there. I then went from car to car lubricating the others. Much easier than dealing with future tear outs.
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Old 12-11-2010, 09:51 PM
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My drain areas were entirely plugged. It still had Pine Needles and other debris from the Trees from the State it came from.

It looks as if the Water had been pooling in there for years.

When I assembled it I coated the Hinge Pin with Never-seeze. It will reduce the chance of it rusting again and it will not attract dirt like Grease or Oil would.
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Old 12-12-2010, 10:36 AM
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You also mentioned the second reason to avoid this senario when possible. The additional stress on the hinge may distort it a little as the bushing starts to bind up and eventuially seize. I too landed up adjusting the hinge a little after the repair. These bushings are easily missed even by people oiling their hinge mechanisims for the hood. Never a good ideal though.

Perhaps once a year or even every two or three years is enough. All I am pretty sure is that once you have repaired one you will lubricate it from time to time.
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Old 12-12-2010, 11:02 AM
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Nice job. My only recommendation would be instead of just using epoxy putty, put at least a couple of layers of S glass wetted out with epoxy in there. The glass would make the repair much stronger.

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