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  #1  
Old 06-11-2011, 07:35 AM
Stretch's Avatar
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Abrasive paint removal - how do you do it?

G'day All,

I'm stripping paint without chemical strippers => there's a long story behind why I'm not using chemicals which I'm not going to talk about just yet...

Today I'm concentrating on abrasion.

I've got a pretty good electric orbital sander (125mm diameter) and I've been using this with 60 grit discs to remove paint but it takes forever.

So

I got out my trusty angle grinder and put on one of those abrasive disks and it is way way way too aggressive.

Here's a picture of the stuff I'm using:-



I'm NOT using the wire brush attachment for paint removal!

I'm also not being particularly clever removing the guard on the angle grinder - if you choose to do this make sure the disk isn't spinning before you put the angle grinder down. This will stop it from whizzing off down the end of the garden and killing the chickens (you must all have chickens too right?).

So after all of that the question is:



Is there something in between 60 grit sanding disks and those psycho grinding disk attachments that will allow me to remove layers of automotive paint and spray filler in a controlled way?

Attached Thumbnails
Abrasive paint removal - how do you do it?-rapid-abrasive-paint-removal.jpg  
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Last edited by Stretch; 06-11-2011 at 07:36 AM. Reason: I made a very very small change
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  #2  
Old 06-11-2011, 09:26 AM
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This is what I use.

http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/R2600/index.htm

I can pick up the sanding disks from just about any local hardware store. Get the velcro pad optional item for ease of use.
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  #3  
Old 06-11-2011, 09:36 AM
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Thanks Mike.

I get the impression I'm over cooking the sand paper disks on my orbital sander. I mean I keep the surface nice and wet and I clean off the disks frequently to remove the sludge but they seem to reach a stage where the rate of paint removal stalls - it just sits there smiling back at me... it's taking the piss. The sander as a machine still spins - it is powerful enough for the job - I get the feeling I have more progress with hand sanding and 180 grit paper at times!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #4  
Old 06-11-2011, 09:40 AM
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Oh yeah just in case anyone wants to see what I'm sanding =>

I've taken your advice and started to paint!
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #5  
Old 06-11-2011, 09:55 AM
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You do know that black stuff is the E-coat, correct? You don't want to remove it if at possible. You don't want the surface wet. You are simply transferring the paint slime to the disks.

I'm guessing your original paint wasn't mixed with enough hardener. One thing you can do is, rough sand a layer, wipe it down with denatured alcohol, sand again, wipe, sand, etc. Work your way from 100-120 grit to no finer than 320 grit in stages. I wouldn't go any finer than 220 since you are going to re-prime the entire area.

Ugggh! 7 layers! I went through multiple layers on my '73 280 and I think it took me 6 months to get the feeling back in my wrists.
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  #6  
Old 06-11-2011, 11:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike D View Post
You do know that black stuff is the E-coat, correct? You don't want to remove it if at possible. You don't want the surface wet. You are simply transferring the paint slime to the disks.

I'm guessing your original paint wasn't mixed with enough hardener. One thing you can do is, rough sand a layer, wipe it down with denatured alcohol, sand again, wipe, sand, etc. Work your way from 100-120 grit to no finer than 320 grit in stages. I wouldn't go any finer than 220 since you are going to re-prime the entire area.

Ugggh! 7 layers! I went through multiple layers on my '73 280 and I think it took me 6 months to get the feeling back in my wrists.
Thanks Mike - I am indeed trying to save the E-coat.

I hear what you say about not getting the surface wet - but it seems to burn if I don't!

Here are some more pictures of the dust I'm creating with the angle grinder disk - the psycho option seems to be the best so far now that the disk is a bit blunt / worn down





Not a nice job.
Attached Thumbnails
Abrasive paint removal - how do you do it?-dusty-thats-not-word-.jpg   Abrasive paint removal - how do you do it?-paint-filler-removal.jpg  
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #7  
Old 06-11-2011, 11:14 AM
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What brand/type of pads are you using? I use the "Norton" line and they seem to do the trick.

I use the "local"brand for the roughing (80-180 grits). Yup, you'll go through a lot of the pads. Keep the speed slow and wear the mask.

Speed is the key. Slow for coarse and gradually increase the speed as the grit gets smaller. Go light, pressure wise, with the coarse or else it will just "melt" the paint. I think that is where you are getting your problem.

Now ask yourself, "Hmmm, I wonder why body shops charge so much?"
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  #8  
Old 06-11-2011, 11:47 AM
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That's it Mike - technique problems.

Coarse pads slow speed - got it!

I'm using some Black and Decker pads - the only type you can get in most places here. Where I am I don't think they have an anti monopoly commission... there is rarely a choice except 60 grit or 80 grit!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #9  
Old 06-11-2011, 12:49 PM
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There has to be an autobody supply place in your area.
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  #10  
Old 06-11-2011, 01:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDon View Post
There has to be an autobody supply place in your area.
Well no not really - there is one trade only place that would probably have something more specialised but they refuse to speak to common people. There is of course the internet and I get quite a lot of stuff on line but unless I get stuff outside of the Netherlands all of the places that I know of sell the same stuff as in the shops. Buying stuff through the internet is sometimes cheaper but in many cases the shipping costs hardly make it worthwhile.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #11  
Old 06-13-2011, 06:13 PM
jmk jmk is offline
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You may want to mail order even if it costs more. There is no substitute for good paper.

Though, I still would strip chemically. All that dust in the air is no good for you or your surroundings.

John
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2010 Toyota matrix

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'12 Volvo S80 T6
Needed something that wasn't as hard to deal with as my bad addiction

'18 Mazda Miata
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  #12  
Old 06-14-2011, 03:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmk View Post
You may want to mail order even if it costs more. There is no substitute for good paper.

Though, I still would strip chemically. All that dust in the air is no good for you or your surroundings.

John
Yeah there was a light breeze taking the dust towards the school at the back of my property... luckily it was the weekend so no one was there.

I did start out with POR strip but I didn't have enough of it to do four doors and the front springs. Chemical stripper costs a fortune here and I can't get that aircraft stuff.

Anyway it is all done now the doors are now in high build primer (after a coat of self etch).

Mike's tip about coarse paper slow speed works a treat (even with crappy disks).
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #13  
Old 06-21-2011, 07:18 PM
jmk jmk is offline
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Location: Cleveland, OH
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About the dust: lead and cadnium do not break down. They have to wash away. Be careful with the dust, and try to control it.

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___________________________________________
2010 Toyota matrix

'93 500 SEL
A bad addiction. Takes all of my cash.

'12 Volvo S80 T6
Needed something that wasn't as hard to deal with as my bad addiction

'18 Mazda Miata
No more boring cars for everyday transport!
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