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#151
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Slow progress
As usual it takes longer than it should.
I've got the small patch in floor pan welded in place. This bit was butt welded - I've still got to grind the welds smooth... ...I got fed up with all that weld - grind - weld - grind - weld and went and played about with another bit of bending and trimming for the larger replacement piece on the bulkhead. I think I'm going to do a lap joint on the bit that will be inside the sill and then butt weld the bits that will be visible inside the wheel arch.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#152
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Quote:
Of course I'm going to post pics! |
#153
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No time for welding today...
...and waiting for the sills was a waste of time. According to the online information they are longer than the dimensions in the computer so it seems like they are now not going to deliver them. I'll wait and see if they turn up before the weekend otherwise I'll be going to paypal as usual. I'm fed up with bell end couriers.
Anyway I thought I'd cheer myself up and see just how rust free the sill on the left hand side of the car is => (It felt a bit crunchy when I poked my finger through the drain holes) So I'm glad I've decided to remove that one. I also had a butchers at the floor pan on that side of the car again. This is the side that has been plated with a repair piece - it has been done so badly that the drivers seat isn't level (see earlier in the thread - wonky driver's seat etc) ^^^before^^^ First cut Pulled up ends show rust underneath as well as lots of crunchy rust by the subframe stiffener fixings. I'm going to take it slowly and easy from now on I need to preserve the shape of the "step" panel so I can weld back in a repair piece.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#154
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Whay hey - the couriers managed to sort themselves out...
...one day late but at least I didn't have to ring anyone or send out emails or get papa paypal to threaten refunds.
I have two shiny bits of pressed steel that look like they might fit a W123. The thickness of the metal isn't dreadful - 1.2mm so not as thick as the thickest parts of the original sills which were 1.5mm but then not as thin as the thinnest parts on the originals (0.8 mm) either. They are not as nicely made as the originals but for the price they look OK (so far - I still have to fit the buggers!) Slight nicks and not sharp definition from the pressing but not totally dreadful like that sodding Klokkerholm floor pan Some nasty creases in the hardest parts to get nice TATA steel??? (Anyone? - I'll google in a bit) These creases look like they can be made a bit better so I'll play about with a dolly and a hammer to see if I can get them a bit more gucci. As you can see they have arrived naked. No paint. The jacking points are also not fitted. I have a plan but I might swing to an extreme way of fixing. I'm still trying to find the FSM chapter for sill replacement to see if Mercedes has a novel way of doing the job => Bodywork chapters in the FSM Any advice accepted! This is a thread not a blog! Certain things need to be considered. Such as 1) Method of fixing (top and bottom) 2) Jacking points 3) Inside treatment 4) Outside treatment 5) Fitting under A pillar 6) Fitting under B pillar (this is a 4 door sedan / saloon remember) 7) Fitting at well area / step for back seat area near to subframe mounts 8) Smoothing and making creased surfaces gucci
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#155
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Made a choice (!)
Inner side of the sills have been treated.
I've got a weld through primer on the edges and in the bigger parts KBS rust seal. I'm going to coat over the top with their chassis top coat. Fingers crossed it doesn't all peel off due to the heat of welding... ...to be continued.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#156
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I have been using my 300D as daily driver since rust repairs. It's great to have it back! I do still need to get the rockers (sills) sprayed on inside. Over here, we do this annually anyway. Problem is they spray everything and cars drips oil even the following summer (it is a vegetable oil and it does disappear from driveway in time). It also collects dirt and underside of car then looks a mess. Probably going to try a non-drip type this year.
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Graham 85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5 |
#157
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I'll be using Dinitrol as my rust ninja!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#158
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Still making it lighter
Continuing the rust removal in the rear left hand floor pan area.
I've cut through the floor pan to show the several plates that have been applied over the years The captive nuts for the subframe stiffeners have been removed... ...and I've bent the metal where they were fitted down and out of the way so I can make a new replacement part to the "step" panel behind. I still need to know where those stiffeners go so I haven't cut off that bit of metal just yet! The plan is - as ever - to repair the individual panels to keep the structure as Mercedes intended.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#159
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Isn't anyone scared yet?
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#160
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My car was almost rust free compared with yours! And I almost junked it
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Graham 85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5 |
#161
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Quote:
Colour choice for a W123 300D 4 door - what would you choose? Oh my sides!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#162
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Somehow I had missed this epoch of w123 glory until now Stretch....as always up to the standards of your w201 work. And nearly enough to get me mending my w124 rust portals once I get a few more projects off the workbench!
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05 E320 CDI 99 SL500 02 530i 82 240D SOLD 83 240D Euro 4spd SOLD 86 300D Euro Auto SOLD |
#163
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I'm surprised it doesn't encourage people not to start looking for rust! This looked like a nice car before I started poking about.
(Though to be fair I guess it wouldn't have looked nice for long considering what I've found)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#164
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True.
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___________________________________________ 2010 Toyota matrix '93 500 SEL A bad addiction. Takes all of my cash. '12 Volvo S80 T6 Needed something that wasn't as hard to deal with as my bad addiction '18 Mazda Miata No more boring cars for everyday transport! |
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