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#16
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$4000 really isn't that bad for a good quality body and paint job including rust repair.. you could spend less and get less quality or spend quite a bit more for another type of car.
In the end, if your building this car for your personal enjoyment dont worry about it. If your building for resale then you need to count pennies. |
#17
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Subjective depending on what kind of rust you have and the extent of it. There is localised rusting and then there is spread rust that is extensive under the undercoating.
I dislike the analogy with cancer but it is a fact. You should verify what type is present. Nothing like trying to weld metal in but never getting to true solid metal to do so. You want to make sure you will have good structual integrity when finished. If this is possible a really good undercoating into all cavities etc to protect what you have after it is painted. Must be petroleum based like grease and graphite or all you will do is speed up the rusting process. You have to live in a real rustbelt area like I do to really understand I suspect. We have cars here that are just a rolling pieces of rust oxides.Nothing really has much integrity left metalwise. Then there are those that really only require a few patches as they are fundementally still sound. |
#18
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I would rather buy a piece of crap and spend the money and redo it myself than spend the same money on a car that's already redone. At least if I do it, I KNOW it and know it was done the way I want it. It's still cheaper than buying a new car and more fun in the long run.
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#19
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A major redo is a pain in the posterior. This far north without some serious attempt to protect the work done you have wasted your time to some extent. Even mixing and heating up a combination of grease and oil and cavity spraying does help a lot. A cheap rubberised undercoating gun can spray that mix. These are commonly called schultz guns I believe. The petroleum mix creeps all over the cavity and denies oxygen acess to the metal. |
#20
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It appears you've already made up your mind? If you haven't, then my suggestion would be to search out a rust free or mostly rust free platform to start with. Short of stripping everything from the car including all undercoating to find the rust then cut it out, weld in new, and properly treat to avoid future rusting then most likely you will encounter more rust in the future. It sounds like you are trying to properly restore a car for the long term? If so, finding a sound platform to build from will be worth the effort. Maybe your current car has great interior and mechanicals? If so, it would be much easier to swap these over to a good body. Good luck!
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You can't always get what you want, but if you try sometime you just might find you get what you need. |
#21
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Ive done it before. Never extensive rust repair but eventually it starts to get to you. I became so sick of repairs.
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1984 300SD Orient Red/ Palomino 1989 560SEC 2016 Mazda 6 6 speed manual 1995 Ford F-150 reg cab 4.9 5speed manual |
#22
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Quote:
We finally broke down and bought a new Volvo S60 with a generous warranty and service plan. I think this 240D will be our last old car. My interest in it is only as a collectable/hobby car.
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1974 240D "Boldie" 170K.- New timing chain/freshly rebuilt IP/replaced valve seals/injectors/upgraded stereo/new Bilsteins with Yokohamas/fresh paint and rocker panels plus lots of welds. |
#23
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Could you post some pictures? and some after it's done. Thx
Sal 76300D 85300D |
#24
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A car is like a wife, only better.
You are not crazy, my car drives me anywhere, my wife only drives me crazy.
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#25
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Only $4000????
Wow I WISH I'd only spent $4000! (he says leaving the thread in fits of manic giggles)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#26
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Go get yourself a lincoln 110 welder and find some sound parts cars for patch panels and Teach yourself to do it.
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#27
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$4k seems like a good price for a high quality respray, the prep is the most expensive part there's so much labor involved.
However, it seems that automotive body shops have been somewhat insulated from the economic downturn, prices for work have not come down yet like I had anticipated they would. To a certain extent this is due to the industry that most of them operate in now; insurance repair, and as long as there's a continuous amount of work there's no need to attract more business. I wouldn't be surprised to see insurers acquiring some collision repair facilities in larger metro areas as a way of controlling costs...but who knows. I don't believe that a person can be forced to accept a certain repair shop but it may come to that. At any rate, if I could find someone here to paint my W140 for $4k (and do a high quality job) I would probably take it. It's been so long since I sprayed a car I just don't think I'd want to try it.
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Steve A 92 W140 OM603 97 VW Jetta TDI 90 Passat variant TDI 6 speed MT 94 Chevy K1500 6.5TD 05 E320 CDI + others |
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