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  #1  
Old 03-20-2012, 06:21 PM
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Frame rail rust!! Help!

I have an 81 300TD turbo
I was checking out the rear underside(for self leveller rebuilding) when I noticed some rust in the rear frame rails, mostly where they meet the cross member the differential mounts on (right next to the rear wheels)
This is the same area the brake lines attach as well as the bars from the self leveller.
In these two areas the frame rails seem pretty well rusted.poke your screwdriver through rusted..not good
IS this a ditch the car problem or does the unibody hold together despite this
It gives me pause for the possibility of towing too

HEEEELLLLLPPP!

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  #2  
Old 03-20-2012, 06:39 PM
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I hate to tell you this, but I think it is terminal. Save it for parts and get another one.
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Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis



1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA

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  #3  
Old 03-20-2012, 09:03 PM
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Thanks
I appreciate the truth in this instance regardless of whether it's good or bad news

Just to clarify it's not the entire rail(s), mostly just at the juncture of the horizontal member and the two rear rails that are on either side of the gastank
To me it seemed like a bad thing
Any other opinions?
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  #4  
Old 03-20-2012, 09:47 PM
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Can you post pictures?
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82 300SD 145k
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  #5  
Old 03-20-2012, 10:42 PM
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yeah, pics are critical.
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  #6  
Old 03-20-2012, 11:03 PM
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If I understand you correctly, you have some serious rust that is NOT easy to repair, and it's quite important for rigidity of the vehicle.

you are describing the rails between the bars that are parallel with the rear bumper, yes? and the rust is on the section that the rear subframe is bolted to?

start looking for a replacement car. this level of rust repair is NOT for the even experienced body man...
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
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1987 300TD
1987 300TD
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  #7  
Old 03-21-2012, 04:18 AM
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Yeah put up some pics here or on BW then we can give you a better idea.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
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  #8  
Old 03-21-2012, 09:23 PM
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Pictures

Ok here's some under the car with the @%#@^ camera pictures
The first 2 are the passenger side
the next 2 are the drivers side
both sides are poke through rotted in places, the drivers side is worse
Attached Thumbnails
Frame rail rust!! Help!-pass-rail-rust.jpg   Frame rail rust!! Help!-pass-rail-rust-2.jpg   Frame rail rust!! Help!-driv-rail-rust.jpg   Frame rail rust!! Help!-driv-rail-rust-2.jpg  
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  #9  
Old 03-21-2012, 09:46 PM
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If you really wanted to you could fix it. I'd think. It would be work but I think its possible. You'd have to remove the torsion bar and all the stuff in the way, grind it down to bare metal. Then I'd get some 1/4 steel and weld/bolt it in for replacement. Lots of work but do-able IMO.
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(4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!)


82 300SD 145k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
90 560SEL 154k
91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k
93 190E 3.0 235k
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  #10  
Old 03-22-2012, 04:11 AM
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I'm sorry to say but if you gind that there won't be much left.

I'm not saying don't do it but don't get too depressed if you only have flakes on the ground by the time you've finished.

Even my car doesn't have rust like that up there =>

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/body-repair-restoration/303669-my-w123-saloon-sedan-old-accident-repair-bit-rust-repair-thread.html
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #11  
Old 03-22-2012, 08:02 AM
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ok, at least that's not structural...
this car is not going to be restored to concurs condition, but you could clean it up, and treat it.
I'd not remove the torsion bar, keeping in mind, the bolts will likely either snap off, or twist out the nuts from the frame... I'd just wire brush out the nasty stuff, paint it with por-15 a few coats, then pop rivet some metal over it, with JB weld sealing the seams, and underbody coat over the repair.
that'll keep it from getting worse.
I'd also start shopping for a better replacement.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #12  
Old 03-22-2012, 11:51 AM
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Why do you say not structural John?

I'd say very structural for a monocoque - look at that flaky stuff right next to the roll bar mounting bolts. When it gets flaky it comes off in big lumps...

...you shouldn't be wire brushing this with a hand held wire brush - go at it with an angle grinder and a wire brush attachment. It is all very well hiding stuff under POR15 but the paint isn't strong enough to hold it all together.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #13  
Old 03-22-2012, 12:25 PM
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it looks like it's on the H beam, not the rails, it should not be integral to the ridgidty of the car. Sure, it'd affect how the vehicle handles a wreck, but should not fall apart driving.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #14  
Old 03-22-2012, 04:29 PM
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The area I photographed (the junction of the rails(?) and the cross member is te primary rear and rusty bit
The rest of the rails extending sft are good (I was banging them to test them). the spare wheel well is rusty and there's some corresponding rust on the other side.
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  #15  
Old 03-22-2012, 04:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
it looks like it's on the H beam, not the rails, it should not be integral to the ridgidty of the car. Sure, it'd affect how the vehicle handles a wreck, but should not fall apart driving.
Even it does fall apart there while driving, you will still have your front wheels for steering.

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Last edited by pwogaman; 03-22-2012 at 05:10 PM.
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