300D (W123) Weld repair of rusted chassis & floorpans - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

t walgamuth · #31 11-25-2012, 02:30 PM

I like what they have done. Are they coming back and filling in between the spots?

I like the color of the interior!

barry12345 · #32 11-25-2012, 06:14 PM

Well you were not kidding that is real rusty. I am a little suprised the external body has suprising little rust showing with that much going on inside.

Zacharias · #33 11-25-2012, 08:49 PM

The repaired sections remind me of the work done on my '79 300sd in 2000. The guy who did the metal work was Romanian but had worked in France before coming to Canada and he said it was typical for Mercedes from the era.

I guess the question is, how do YOU feel about it?

Glad to see it's getting done. When will you get the car back?

Graham · #34 11-25-2012, 10:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zacharias

The repaired sections remind me of the work done on my '79 300sd in 2000. The guy who did the metal work was Romanian but had worked in France before coming to Canada and he said it was typical for Mercedes from the era.

I guess the question is, how do YOU feel about it?

Glad to see it's getting done. When will you get the car back?

Not sure when he will be done. No hurry because without a heated shop, I won't be able to complete my part until Spring. I want to pull seats and POR floors then install new sound insulation. Will also paint inside of front fenders which only have primer (not coated before they were installed a while back.) before reinstalling liners.

How do I feel? I have only seen pics, but it looks like good work. So long as it doesn't break bank, I will be happy to have car back on road. Despite those rust areas, the rest of the car is surprisingly sound. I pulled everything I could before deciding to go ahead.

Stretch · #35 11-26-2012, 04:25 AM

It looks like a good start - it will most certainly be a safer car to drive when the work is done.

Codifex Maximus · #36 11-26-2012, 04:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Army

I think that all repairs to problems like this should be welded. But that's my personal opinion and that doesn't count! You need to check locally what the rules are.

Fibre glass tends to be a big no no (for rust repairs in "structural" areas - and this can vary from country to country) in the parts of Europe that I know of. I was recently informed that in Germany they no longer accept butt welded joints (such is the TUV's confidence in people with MIG welders!) and you now have to make neat lap joint welds that are welded on both sides. That's not the case in Holland (yet).

So in short I think you need to comply with your local rules and regulations.

My first memories of a MIG welder were horrific. Big rig with gas bottles and wire shooting out of it and lots of sparking. Scared heck out of me. Went back to stick and Acetylene.

What do you guys think of the structural strength of brazing?

t walgamuth · #37 11-26-2012, 06:23 AM

You really ought to get the mods to change the name of the thread since you decided to save the car!

Graham · #38 11-26-2012, 10:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t walgamuth

You really ought to get the mods to change the name of the thread since you decided to save the car!

You are right

I have used several threads while I Um'd and Ah'd on getting the car fixed or sold and title of this one no longer fits!

Luckily the shop is doing the photo documentation, so link to their site will be automatically update as the work progresses.

vstech · #39 11-26-2012, 10:55 AM

whatcha want the title to be?

Zacharias · #40 11-26-2012, 12:18 PM

May I suggest, thinking of how it may benefit others in the future:
"w123 rust evaluation, discussion and restoration" ?

Zacharias · #41 11-26-2012, 12:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Codifex Maximus

Went back to stick and Acetylene.

I was told that stick would be too hard to work with for floors in general, and specifically front corners like on Graham's car.

So you are saying it's doable? Given I can pick up a stick welder for under a $100 on sale, it's more tempting than spashing out for a name-brand MIG.

Army, did you use stick on your car?

barry12345 · #42 11-26-2012, 12:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Codifex Maximus

My first memories of a MIG welder were horrific. Big rig with gas bottles and wire shooting out of it and lots of sparking. Scared heck out of me. Went back to stick and Acetylene.

What do you guys think of the structural strength of brazing?

Brazing presents all sorts of issues. Get someone to show you how to use a mig. Once you know or are shown they are very easy to use. Stick for bodywork is not too practical usually.

Stretch · #43 11-26-2012, 01:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Codifex Maximus

My first memories of a MIG welder were horrific. Big rig with gas bottles and wire shooting out of it and lots of sparking. Scared heck out of me. Went back to stick and Acetylene.

What do you guys think of the structural strength of brazing?

I reckon you'll find that most welders here are MIG fanatics.

I think they are dreadful machines - not because of the method particularly - but because they are quite easy to use - you can get two parts of steel to stick together; that's not to say that it will be done safely or properly or well. Most bad welding comes from a MIG welder!

Put it this way the TUV (in Germany) have such great faith in most welders abilities that they no longer allow butt joints. It now has to be lap joint welded on both sides. From what I have seen there are many many "welders" out there who don't really understand what they are doing.

As for brazing I think that if you have some oxy acetylene skills you are one big step to being good at brazing. From the little I have read it all comes down to cleanliness. Brazed joints can be way stronger than a welded joint but it all comes down to surface area.

Graham · #44 11-26-2012, 02:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

whatcha want the title to be?

I don't mind - Something short that others with same problem can find by a search. Key words RUST, WELD, REPAIR, W123, 300D, chassis, Floor pans

300D (W123) Weld repair of rusted chassis & floorpans.

Whatever you think.

Stretch · #45 11-27-2012, 03:39 AM

How about "W123 chemo - floor pan and wheel well rust repairs"?