I posted an item a while back about a detached check strap mount ( fwd passenger door) where the check strap mounts to the body.

Well my neighbor is one of the best and well known welders in the area. Last night he repaired it and the door operates like new! He drilled two holes through the fwd door frame on the body; I held the mount as he tack welded it into place; he then 'pooled' weld into the holes. All I need to do is prime and paint. No more snapping and popping when the door is opened or closed!

Ordering some parts from "parts shop" today and by wednesday all the doors and locking mechanisms will be complete and like new!

__________________
1982 240D 313,000 (4 speed)
1984 300CD 172,483
1985 German Shepherd Dog -Lacey- R.I.P.11/04/05

Hood Stars, Wrist Crowns and Obsession Dobs

In discussions with a local indy he says the way he has them fixed is to remove the inner plastic covering and cut a hole big enough to get back in there and weld a new one in. The part number for the new "mount" is 123 630 03 20. Your way of doing it sounds easier. Also, that is what is called "plug" welding. My 240D needs this done on the drivers door and I will probably take care of it when I get it painted.

__________________
Jim

Can anyone tell me what the inside (m ounted in the body)of the strap looks like. The reason I ask is mine is popping and I would like to drill and weld it. I drill about 1/2 inch above the mount and didnt find anything so I drilled to the right of the mount and found something on the inside but it wasn't loose. I'm guessing it might be mounted side to side but I thought I would ask. I can always keep drilling but maybe someone can shed some light and besides I get to bump a very old thread. Thanks

__________________
83 300D 227,xxx miles, sold
86 300 SDL 130,000 miles, sold

Drill between the protruding thingies that the pin goes through. The mount is only as wide and long as the 'thingies'. My repair was was on the front passenger door. Be carefull and check to see what is behind the door piller, the heat of welding WILL melt vacuum lines!

Bernie

__________________
1982 240D 313,000 (4 speed)
1984 300CD 172,483
1985 German Shepherd Dog -Lacey- R.I.P.11/04/05

Hood Stars, Wrist Crowns and Obsession Dobs

Thank you very much. Mine is on the driver door and I didn't pull the pin so I couldnt drill between the mounts. I'll do that and weld up all the other little holes. Wish I would have asked first but no big deal. I'll keep it cold so nothing get too hot. Thanks again

__________________
83 300D 227,xxx miles, sold
86 300 SDL 130,000 miles, sold

Before I got here, I found this German forum photo-series that kinda says it all, even if you don't sprecken... http://w126.mercedesforen.de/read.php?1,313324,313452

It shows how to drill three holes through the hinge-panel along the centerline of the loose part, each about 3/16" diam., the three holes flanking the two protruding ears from the broken-off bracket. The upper/lower holes are spaced to leave a gap from the loose part of no more than 1/8", I'd say. All three holes will expose unbroken portion of the loose part's backing-plate, allowing you to plug-weld the part.

Have a fire-extinguisher or at least garden-hose on hand - hard to know what might catch fire inside that panel. If you don't want to weld there, an alternative might be to drill the same holes more or less, but step down the hole size going through the bracket and then use stainless self-tapping machine-screws, but I'm thinking for longevity the welding method is the way to go.

There is another thread on Peachparts Diesels about same subject.

I have loose bracket on driver side, but with new door strap it seem OK - for now!

If you look carefully, you can see the 4 original plug welds on the A-pillar. My plan is to drill those out one at a time, then tap thread and install a machine screw.

We had been looking for a good pic of the bracket, so this thread is useful!

__________________
Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5