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  #1  
Old 03-08-2003, 09:14 PM
190D22's Avatar
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Columbus, Ohio
Posts: 876
Damn this salt!

My car is showing its winter wounds!!!!! The salt really gave my car a beating this year. Rust is showing up a lot more. How easily can I replace my two front doors and front fenders and have them match the rest of the car? How expensive is this proposition and where would you start. I am by means in no hurry to do this, but it definately needs addressed in the near future. Might as well start planning now.

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  #2  
Old 03-08-2003, 09:44 PM
The Least of These
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Exton, PA
Posts: 559
190d22,

Depending on your color, I think getting your paint to match would be very difficult - especially on a 19 year old car. When my 123 was in an accident (rear deck lid and quarter), I spent more money and had some very minor rust taken care of and the whole thing repainted. All the paint shops I asked said they would "blend" the colors the best they could. They would not guarentee a perfect match. Additionally they said that as the car aged, the colors would look progressively different. Please note that this was a red car.

After spending the extra money, I was very pleased. There is nothing like a fresh coat of high quality paint to make a MB look brand new!!

Why do you need to replace these parts? Could they be repaired instead? This may save you some money. Then, if you plan on keeping your car for a while longer, like it sounds you do, why not paint the whole thing and make it right?
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  #3  
Old 03-08-2003, 09:55 PM
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gimme a low-tech 240D
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: central ky
Posts: 3,602
Pay Somebody Else..... or DIY??

DIY - If you're thinkin about rehangin new doors so they open/close perfectly, mixing paint to exactly match color...... then I'd say unless you grew up around cars and know what you're doing. - you've got to be joking.

PSE - you're talkin at least 1G for paintwork, another for sheetmetal, and possibly 3 days labor......... $3-5K might see the work completed, replacing both fenders and doors.
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  #4  
Old 03-08-2003, 11:01 PM
190D22's Avatar
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Columbus, Ohio
Posts: 876
Damn. I may just let this car die then. Too much money has been spent on it already, that much more is out of the question!!! I will now research ways to control the rust then. I was considering a complete repaint for it. My dad sounded somewhat accepting of the idea. It's just I think that the rust on the doors is not repairable. The fenders look like they are salvageable. I wouldn't mind a black 190D 2.2!! heh heh just kidding.
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  #5  
Old 03-09-2003, 01:24 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Wakefield, RI
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Chances are the damage was already begun long before the winter started. Rust doesn't happen overnight. You could grind/wire wheel all the rust spots and treat them with POR15. In the inconspicous areas like the bottoms of doors, door jambs, inner wheelwells and lower fenders can be topcoated with decent auto primer and even spray cans if thats all you can afford. I would treat all the rust I could find like this and then have a cheap paint job done. The key is spending the extra time finding and treating the rust and also prepping the car for paint. If you are lucky your total cost will be under $500. The results can be very good if you spend the time with the prep and try to get ALL the rust to keep it from coming right back. RT
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  #6  
Old 03-09-2003, 01:50 AM
Spo123
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Talking matching....................................

190d22:

Hello, you sound like an impressionable kid........................

Do not enable yourself to be taken in by your peers!

Nothing is PERFECT............please elaborate how many automobiles you have been INTIMATE with.

YOU have some rust issues. No s**t sherlok!..................

Get whatever doors you need from a BONEYARD somewhere down south or out west...................can you handle a socket wrench?

PAY EXTRA.....................If your Benz is a stock color, then spend a little extra and SPECIFY the COLOR thet YOU want and or need. Do not settle for anything less. Sometimes one will feel otherwise and perhaps be intimidated..........F**K 'em! Drive the BIT*H until it dies...............the ORIGINAL paint will match BETTER with doors etc from a "dead man's special" than you can imagine................save your money and pick up something for your head and keep smiling.......................OR just let them (who are they?) beat your ass and let you become intimidated because of the BULL***** ..............you are in CONTROL!!!!!!!!!........ Personally, I have destroyed at least 30 cars at least..........


Be happy and NOT intimidated.............run your Benz into the ground and then throw it away! Sometimes ONE has the space to keeep the throw away for future scavenging.........IF this is the case, then you are in the MINORITY! Don't let them give you any shi*!

You WILL be stronger and SMARTER in the long run.


Keep those DIESELS humming!


Spo out.
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  #7  
Old 03-09-2003, 11:32 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: PA
Posts: 5,440
190D22,

There is only one way to stop road salt from rusting your car. That is to NOT drive your car when salt is on the roads.

If you car is showing rust in the outside, there is even more on the inside where you can't see it. Its is a never ending problem that can't be solved except as above.

I have a few MB that never see the winter. They are like bears and hibernate in the winter. In the spring, they come out of hibernation with not a spec of rust or any dents or worse from slippery roads.

I suggest you don't spend money on the car you have and put what you would spend toward on a good southern rust free car. Then put that one away for the winter and use the one you have until spring comes and the salt is washed away.

This is the only solution to the rust problem that really works.

P E H
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  #8  
Old 03-09-2003, 02:42 PM
190D22's Avatar
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Columbus, Ohio
Posts: 876
Thanks guys. That's also what I was thinking. It's just that I hate seeing this car rusting, it looks like it is bleeding. But it still drives better than most cars on the road. I am keeping my eye on what MB I want next!
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  #9  
Old 03-09-2003, 02:59 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Utah
Posts: 414
I hate rust but I hate undercoating even more. I believe it traps rust/water and road salt and then the process begins.. RUST
We see our share of salt since the Great Salt lake is right here.
Our roads are white with it.

I use a home made version of waxoyl. Waxoyl is used in Great Britian and areas that see alot wet weather. I have two 76 Land Cruisers that see daily driving and I use this religously for a rust inhibitor. We get our fair share of wet weather here in Utah and my undercarriages and sheet metal still look great. I will be doing the newly aquired 240 D when she hits the road.
Here is some info.
..
Here is a recipe for home made "Waxoyl". It's an old fashioned rust treatment / undercoating:

2 1/2 quarts turpentine
12 oz. beeswax / candle wax
1 quart light machine oil

With a cheese shredder, cut the wax into the turpentine, stir until the wax has dissolved, ( 137 degrees)(takes a long time; you can use very low heat on a (a warm room) to aid but be careful) and thin with the machine oil to a brushable / sprayable consistency. Apply liberally. You can use a hand spray bottle to get into closed-off sections if you have a small access hole.
Hand spray bottle works best... I tried a weed sprayer but clean up = hassle. I spend a few minutes coating the underbody and undercarriage tiwce a year. Mud don't stick and it repels water big time. Iflood it on and it penetrates the picnhwelds and seams.
PS.. don't put more wax in than the recipe calls for BTDT..gets too thick!


Please be sensible when you make this stuff; don't go breathing the fumes or applying heat and burning down your house. If you have any doubts about it, err on the side of caution and just buy a commercially available product

Not a bad idea for any vehicle.
* Now... I wonder if I could use it for emergency fuel*? j/k


bennett

Last edited by bennett; 03-09-2003 at 04:28 PM.
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  #10  
Old 03-09-2003, 04:26 PM
lorenztl's Avatar
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Iowa, USA
Posts: 116
Wink

Quote:
Originally posted by bennett
Our roads are white with it.

I use a home made version of waxoyl. Waxoyl is used in Great Britian and areas that see alot wet weather. I have two 76 Land Cruisers that see daily driving and I use this religously for a rust inhibitor. We get our fair share of wet weather here in Utah and my undercarriages and sheet metal still look great. I will be doing the newly aquired 240 D when she hits the road.
Here is some info.
..
Here is a recipe for home made "Waxoyl". It's an old fashioned rust treatment / undercoating:

2 1/2 quarts turpentine
12 oz. beeswax / candle wax
1 quart light machine oil

With a cheese shredder, cut the wax into the turpentine, stir until the wax has dissolved, ( 137 degrees)(takes a long time; you can use very low heat on a (a warm room) to aid but be careful) and thin with the machine oil to a brushable / sprayable consistency. Apply liberally. You can use a hand spray bottle to get into closed-off sections if you have a small access hole.
Hand spray bottle works best... I tried a weed sprayer but clean up = hassle. I spend a few minutes coating the underbody and undercarriage tiwce a year. Mud don't stick and it repels water big time. Iflood it on and it penetrates the picnhwelds and seams.
PS.. don't put more was in than the recipe calls for BTDT..gets too thick!

bennett
This Waxoyl mix is a great idea and may look the same or be similar to the wax that's genorously sprayed and flooded to protect the underbody and cavities on my '91 Jetta ...Yes? The Jetta is wax proofed from factory very well and shows no hint of rust anywhere.

The key is to renew or check the undercoating for nicks/chips and undercoating breaks around seems etc at least before the salt is laid, twice a year is better as you suggest....vigilance! That's how we've kept our '88 Turbo Diesel Chevy conversion van from acquiring rust.

How about finding a replacement for salt. It eats and destroys concrete roads too. This costs us a bunch more than just our automobiles. How bad can it be for the environment since the EPA does not allow snow from roads to be dumped into rivers. It's time for a replacement. Call your city street department and note the excessive, thoughtless, endless, meterless dumping on our roads and the waste of much of our tax dollars for this treatment!
Needed to get that out.
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  #11  
Old 03-09-2003, 05:50 PM
190D22's Avatar
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Columbus, Ohio
Posts: 876
The rust I have is on the body. The under carriage looks great! Can I apply something that will stop the rust or at least slow it down?
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2004 Lexus RX-330 ??K
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  #12  
Old 03-09-2003, 05:59 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Utah
Posts: 414
Why not try the waxoyl?

Rust mort is good to change the properties of rusted metal. Napa has it. I have brushed it on lightly and heavily rusted areas with good success. Ugly but it stops rust for the time being,
Another home brew rust killer is phosphouric acid.. buy the strongest chrome wheel cleaner loaded with Posphouric and watch light rust disappear. Works to stop rust until treatment or repair. They are short term solutions.
Prevention is the cure... I say waxoyl
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  #13  
Old 03-09-2003, 06:43 PM
190D22's Avatar
Driver's Side lights
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Columbus, Ohio
Posts: 876
Well what about the paint that is on top of the rust. Will it just fall off? I have some touch up paint that I could put on.
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1984 190D 2.2 Auto 220k
2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport 70K
2004 Lexus RX-330 ??K
2005 Chrylser Crossfire LTD 6K

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  #14  
Old 03-09-2003, 10:58 PM
lorenztl's Avatar
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Iowa, USA
Posts: 116
Wink

Quote:
Originally posted by 190D22
Well what about the paint that is on top of the rust. Will it just fall off? I have some touch up paint that I could put on.
You'll need to remove the rust entirely and that means the bubbled paint under which there is rust. A small pinprick can cover up to a quarter inch or more of rust under the paint and it will flake off.

Scrape and remove the rust completely from the entire area that is affected by rust under the paint or it will continue to spread beneath the paint like cancer. Then use the rust converter/primer available at Napa, Advance Auto or even Walmart has the Krylon converter as Bennett suggested.
For small areas I'll spray it in the can cap and brush it on. You will want to touch it up with several light coats before it is allowed exposure to the elements.

It will be tough on you to scrape the paint from the affected areas but this is the only way to stop it. Will look better when you're finished and in the long run.
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  #15  
Old 03-10-2003, 12:33 PM
Regular User
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Flyover State
Posts: 1,364
One of the guys earlier mentioned POR 15.

If you really want to stop the rust, this looks like the way to do it.
It isn't a paint. Paint allows moisture through its pores.
POR 15 bonds to the rust and doesn't allow moisture through. It kinda looks like a powder coat afterwards.
Go online and check it out. I bought some but haven't put it on yet, so I guess I'll stop plugging it now.

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