Larry,

Earlier this morning I would not have known what you meant buy "dusting on some gloss paint" but I was at my cousin's shop and saw one of his guys use that method on an E320(black) and he told me that's the only way to make sure it's perfect.

Obviously, every car gets treated according to the $$$ being spent on it, so my white Camry was undeserving of that treatment.



Pretty cool technique.

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Enough about me, how are you doing?

"dusting on some gloss paint" So what dos it mean?

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1979 Black on Black, 300CD (sold), 1990 Black 300SE, Silver 1989 Volvo 780, 1988 300CE (vanished by the hands of a girlfriend), 1992 300CE (Rescue).

When you are prepping a car and applying filler, your aim is to even out the surface for a nice smooth finish.

When sanding or reducing the filler to achieve this, you can spot imperfections before the final prep work by applying a light coat of glossy paint onto the repaired area and it "highlights" any imperfections for you to properly remove them.

The hand can only feel so much so I assume thois eliminates a lot of errors after the real painting is done.

Larry, correct me if I'm wrong, I just learned oof this today.

Thanks

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Enough about me, how are you doing?

Earle Scheib is doing my 1981 300 SD on the 16th of this month. I only paid $1900 for the car so I didn't want to spend $2-3 grand on a paint job. They are painting the whole car, plastic cladding and all, Silver Frost. Non-mettallic. The cost for the painting and the prep, and fixing the numerous dings, will be $542.00 out the door, with a 6 year warranty.

Do they use regular glossy paint or car paint?

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1979 Black on Black, 300CD (sold), 1990 Black 300SE, Silver 1989 Volvo 780, 1988 300CE (vanished by the hands of a girlfriend), 1992 300CE (Rescue).

Yes, due to different grit sandpaper, areas with bondo, areas with primer filler, areas with glazing, etc. you just can't feel to tell where the low and high areas are because all these different surfaces feel differently.

Most people use a spray bomb can of glossy paint, but I've also seen scrap paint with a paint gun used on larger areas. A thin coat will cause imperfections to stick out like a sore thumb.

Again, learning the methods for doing paint and body work is not enough. If you are an impatient person you won't be good at it no matter how much ability you have with the tools and resources of the trade.

Have a great day,

I debadged the car in 1970 but not for any 'trick' reasons. Where I live there are a lot of dirt roads. Dust and mud would get behind the 'emblems' as we called them, and rust. This car also had chromed rocker panels that were removed for the same reason. As far as what's under the hood, it's a balanced and blueprint 289 with 10 and a half to one Speedpro Flat tops, a Melling high lift, long duration cam, Accel dual point distributor, Edelbrock F4B highriser and an Edelbrock 600 cfm carb, exhausted through Eagle headers. And yes, (blush), it has surprised some people.