I have images I can post, but they're too large. Can anyone resize and post them if I send them to you?

Thanks!

Chris

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1992 300D 2.5T
1980 Euro 300D (sadly, sold)
1998 Jetta TDI, 132K "Rudy"
1974 Triumph TR6
1999 Saab 9-5 wagon (wife's)

I was looking in the archives for rust repair options and came across this.

Just wondering how you made out with this vehicle, Chris?

Seller ever make it right for you?

Rust get repaired?

If any of you have not looked into rust arresting products lately, you have got to check out RUST BULLET. It beats POR 15 hands down!!! so do a search for it!

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1982 300SD Light Blue
2002 Honda Accord SE
1974 Toro Wheel Horse Tractor
2000 Toyota Tundra Pickup

rustbullet.com

Will,

The way it cures etc. sounds exactly like POR-15 what makes you think it is better? Did you signup for a distributorship??

__________________
Bill Reimels
Now down to one:
1972 300SE 3.5 W109 (Euro delivery)

No, I am not a distributor. I used POR 15, a fellow Mercedes friend of mine used Rust bullet. My por 15 started lifting and peeling off. The rust bullet is hard as a rock. User experience. If you don't topcoat the POR it is useless and breaks down. Rust bullet does not have to be topcoated.

__________________
1982 300SD Light Blue
2002 Honda Accord SE
1974 Toro Wheel Horse Tractor
2000 Toyota Tundra Pickup

Hello all -- seller never did make good on the car (live & learn), but I had a friend who was willing to patch her up for me. He cut out all the rust and welded metal in some spots, and fiberglassed the rest. I don't use the jacking points now (afraid I'll tear the 'glass), but it looks great, and I think the rust has been neutralized.

The surface-rusted areas that I used POR-15 on are still perfectly clean. I have used POR-15 on several projects and never been unhappy with the results. I'll look into the other stuff, too, though (esp. of it's cheaper!).

Chris

__________________
1992 300D 2.5T
1980 Euro 300D (sadly, sold)
1998 Jetta TDI, 132K "Rudy"
1974 Triumph TR6
1999 Saab 9-5 wagon (wife's)

Maybe you should fill us in on who the fellow member who dumped the rustbucket on you is.

__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
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Section 609 MVAC Certified
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"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

That's quite an advantage. Not needing to purchase the prep materials and then doing a topcoat is a big savings.

I might try some in this area by the firewall below the battery. I've also got to patch up an actual hole in the firewall in the same location.

I agree with BHD.

Time to light him up.

See post #5 as a sample.

We don't need such folks around here.

Yes....it wasn't a prior rust repair he didn't know about......its one he himself did.......and a poor rust repair is actually worse than doing nothing at all.

__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

" I used POR 15, a fellow Mercedes friend of mine used Rust bullet. My por 15 started lifting and peeling off. The rust bullet is hard as a rock. User experience. If you don't topcoat the POR it is useless and breaks down. Rust bullet does not have to be topcoated." ---willrev

You clearly did not read and follow the directions for prepping and applying POR15.

You need to give it grip with the metal with either phosphoric acid treatment or sand blasting.... just like any metal painting requires to stick.

The instructions specifically say " POR15 is not UV resistant BUT THAT THE CHANGE CAUSED IS ONLY COSMETIC... IT DOES NOT ERODE YOUR METAL PROTECTION.

I have been reading about POR15 for at least 20 years in Hemmings Motor News... the Bible of Auto Restoration....and NEVER saw one word of complaint... then you come along and bash it ... which do you think I am going to believe ?

PS. A week ago I bought one gallon of gloss black... had my 38 inch mower deck sandblasted ( $30 ) and painted two coats on it.... which must be applied within a window (three to five hours typically depending on moisture level in the air ) just like most metal paints... It is hard as a rock and beautiful....and I am gathering up other stuff from the farm to prep and slap this stuff onto...

From their website:
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Q: 4. Do I need to treat or prepare the rusted surface before applying Rust Bullet®?
A: Little or NO surface preparation is necessary. The surface to be coated must be free of loose flakes of rust or paint, moisture, dirt, mildew, oily substances, wax and loose particles. The surface to be coated must be completely dry. Please refer to our Application Guidelines, rustbullet.com/Application.htm

Q: 5. Does the metal surface to be coated need to be bare or can it have paint on it?
A: Either way, just make sure loose flakes of rust or paint are scraped or wire brushed off. Rust Bullet® will penetrate some paints, but works best when it is in direct contact with a rusted surface or bare metal. To aid in the adhesion of Rust Bullet® to existing paint, we recommend roughing up the painted surface prior to the application of Rust Bullet®.

Q: 6. Can I apply Rust Bullet® on a damp or wet surface?
A: No. It is extremely important that the surface be completely dry.
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Look at number 4 carefully... now I am sure a lot of lazy people will read the first line and go with it... but read the rest of that answer and tell me how you get a surface like that without the usual ( hard messy ) metal prepping work ? The answer is YOU CANNOT.... and people trying to skip important steps in tring to stop rust are just kidding themselves...

My 450SL has large holes, approx 6" in diameter centered with the jack ports on both sides of the car. I have gotten rid of all the rotted metal and with a grinder, ground to metal around the holes, then applied zinc chromate paint inside and outside of the area of the holes. Next, I filled the cavity with urethane foam, then applied 2 laminations of 10 oz fiberglass cloth using west epoxy. Over the cloth I used west epoxy and micro sandable filler, kinda like bondo but of a closed cell. I then fared the area in smooth then painted with several coats of epoxy barrier coating then sanded and painted flat black!

This was all done before I heard about Por 15, or now Rust bullet! Too late now, but I'll see in time if the rust has stopped. Also, my theory is that if i can keep this car dry, no drives in the rain, and the car is under cover from rain etc, I hope this will be the stop gap for future rust.

Oh, ya, I use a small hydraulic pump jack to lift the car. A good spot I've found for the front is under the lower control arm. The rear has a similar structural suspension member, don't know what it's called, but it works!

uh....most foam isn't very useful in structural applications, and fiberglass won't do much either if it delaminates due to flexure of the steel it's bonded to. If I were you, I'd be more than a little concerned with 6" areas missing. Those rockers are structural....Oh, and I apologize for being such a Pollyanna..It's your car, and you should do what you want with it...and my rockers aren't perfect either

__________________
'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue"

"Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement."

listen, look, .........and duck.

Not only is foam not structural but it does a great job of trapping moisture. Sounds just one step above the old boge of using rolled newspaper and bondo. I recommend you sell this fine specimen to a fellow list member immediately before its too late....

__________________
Bill Reimels
Now down to one:
1972 300SE 3.5 W109 (Euro delivery)