Sigh... well, the "nice" little 190E I just bought isn't so nice anymore. I need to learn to quit being such a trusting guy. What the p.o. described a "rust repair" is clearly more a case of "rust cover-up." I got to poking with a screwdriver last night around the fiberglass "repair" he did, and found that he didn't even bother to treat or remove the rust underneath. It was even damp under the "repair." I'm hesitant to even bother looking at the other side just yet.

My question is this. The rockers and part of the wheel well is rusted clean through on this car. This includes some areas around the jacking points. I think the car is worth saving, to include paying for proper repairs as work to this extent is beyond my abilities. Since this repair will be done dear the rear jacking point(s), I suppose I should check into metal repair rather than fiberglass, no? Is there another area where a jack can be used on the 201 chassis? I didn't see one when I got to looking last night, so I'm not sure how well fiberglass would hold up in this area, even if the jacking tube looks relatively sturdy.

The good news, I guess, is that the painted areas of the car look OK. Maybe I'll luck out and avoid the cost of paint matching, and just be able to have the repaired areas rubberized.

Has anyone had work like this done? I'm wondering how wide a ballpark I'm looking at cost-wise. Naturally there are lots of variables, I am sure.

What a hard lesson to learn. A bitter pill for a guy of my means to swallow!


Chris

__________________
1992 300D 2.5T
1980 Euro 300D (sadly, sold)
1998 Jetta TDI, 132K "Rudy"
1974 Triumph TR6
1999 Saab 9-5 wagon (wife's)

That's a raw deal. Just causes us all to get even more cynical about people as time goes on. I am already to the point where I trust every used car dealer about as far as I can lift him up and throw him.

With regard to repairing it, I would not make any decisions until you get a couple of cost estimates. Most body shops loath this type of work, and, you would need to find a good one who would do the job correctly and not just do a "cosmetic" repair, only to have the rust return in three years.

Welding in proper, and stiff, sheet metal around the jacking points, with proper reinforcement, is time consuming and expensive.

Chris,

I bought a 300D a few months ago and I had to repair 2 of the jack points on it. I fabricated the sheet metal and MIG welded it into place. The trick is to cut the hole for the jack point fairly close to the diameter of the jack point and weld it onto good shiny metal. Mine weren't too bad and took me a couple of hours for each one. The good news is that the repair, if you choose, doesn't have to be perfect cosmetically because: 1) It will be down low on the car and B) covered with a flat black mottled undercoating.

Tom

Thanks, fellas. Tom -- do you want to come spend a couple of intimate hours with my 190E? Ha ha...

Yes, it's discouraging when someone passes off something this schotty as "repaired." I bough this from someone here on Mercedesshop; he drove the car from Iowa, so I know it's sound mechanically, but he was obviously not at all forthcoming about the rust work he did. I asked pretty specifically about that, too, and his ads all said "no rust." I should have known better. There were 2 spots of surface rust on the doors when I did my 10-minute "pre-purchase inspection," but I figured I'd let that pass and handle the repairs myself. I emailed the seller, but I don't expect to hear back. Maybe I'll have our city attorney draw up a letter to let him know I'm not happy. My dad works for the city and I'm sure the attorney would help me out for a reasonable fee.

Man, I hate bodywork. What a drag. Live & learn!

Chris

__________________
1992 300D 2.5T
1980 Euro 300D (sadly, sold)
1998 Jetta TDI, 132K "Rudy"
1974 Triumph TR6
1999 Saab 9-5 wagon (wife's)

IMHO, it would definitely be to the seller's advantage to work this out with you. I'm quite sure he would not want to see his name up here in lights like this:


cscmc1 ripped me off


I sure would not want my name up there like that. Pretty much reduces your credibility to zero.

I hope he responds. The car is worth repairing, but for what I paid, I exptected a rust-free car, which is what was advertised. I'd like to see him at least offer to help with the repair costs to get the rust truly eliminated. We'll see what comes of my inquiry.

Thanks for the support!

Chris

__________________
1992 300D 2.5T
1980 Euro 300D (sadly, sold)
1998 Jetta TDI, 132K "Rudy"
1974 Triumph TR6
1999 Saab 9-5 wagon (wife's)

Have you inquired at a body shop locally to find out what a proper repair would cost........Might be worth it and less than you expect.

I do understand your displeasure with the seller. If it were me saying I was P*@@ed off would be understatment of the year.

__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
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Section 609 MVAC Certified
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"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

Hey Doc -- yes, I am going to check on repair estimates and probably will bite the bullet and get it fixed. I am confident that the car is worth fixing, and I really can't afford to toss the money I spent on the car away. It was pretty much all I could afford, so fixing it is going to get into my Christmas money now. Bummer for the girlfriend!

Thanks for the support! It makes me feel better to get the "been there, done that" emails and hear from folks who have done these repairs.

Chris

__________________
1992 300D 2.5T
1980 Euro 300D (sadly, sold)
1998 Jetta TDI, 132K "Rudy"
1974 Triumph TR6
1999 Saab 9-5 wagon (wife's)

Sometimes it pays to get a pro to do the job right. Thats adifficult one and if its not done right the rust will come back with a vengence.

Rust like cancer has to be completely removed.....treated withthe respective chemo and proberly taken care of........done right you have many years to enjoy the car. Left to grow, or improperly covered up..............well you know the answer.

Rocker panels are integral to the cars structural strength. If you need to ask how to fix it you are likely not equiped to do it right. Tools procedeures and skills required are not the same as changing parts. Fender rust is a far different thing. Now if you have a buddy thats a body guy who will work with you then thats a whole different thing.

__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

You couldn't get better advice than what our boneheaddoctor has given you. I've replaced many rocker panels on Porsches made before the factory started dipping the bodies in galvanizing medium. You MUST get all the rust out before welding in new metal. If you are a VERY talented DIYer that can make a good weld and has no problem with proper fitment, go for it. If not, let a pro do it. Wear a good aspirator under your welding hood too.

We once had a 914/6 come into the shop that had broken into two parts right behind the driver's seat. He was on the freeway when it happened

Guys -- you're all right... professional repair is the way to go. I have no intention of trying this myself. I am sure I couldn't do any better than the p.o. did, which isn't saying much, so yes, I'll leave it to someone with some experience. I'm going to take it to a local fellow as soon as I can and get some ideas on what it'll cost to fix it "right." My fingers are crossed that I can keep it at or around $500 or so for both rockers. Seeing as we might be able to avoid any painting, I'm hoping that might be possible.

Now, we'll see if the p.o. offers to pony up any help with the cost of repairs. I still just can't believe someone would so blatantly misrepresent the "repairs" done. I will try to post a pic of the job he did. It's just a mess.

Thanks again,

Chris

__________________
1992 300D 2.5T
1980 Euro 300D (sadly, sold)
1998 Jetta TDI, 132K "Rudy"
1974 Triumph TR6
1999 Saab 9-5 wagon (wife's)

Chris,

Post your pics when you can. As you know, I am only a couple of miles from you. I have been doing restorations for about 30 years and this rocker repair work is right up my alley. We could work together (read: you do the dirty work). Maybe there is a ride in one of those Stratotankers for ole Tom. Or at least a VIP tour of one of them. I am a bit pressed on projects right now, but if isn't too bad, we could probably tackle it.

Tom

I bet that repair runs over $1k fast! Good body work done by good shops isn't cheap!

__________________
1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

Of the current MB's I own, I know I will never sell any to anyone because they all have rust around each jack-port. The value of each car has value only to me! All three run and drive perfect! Two of the three look like brand new!

I bought 2 of the MB's real cheap, because of the rust, the third MB I got ripped off as it too had a bondo job filling rot not seen by me or mentioned by the seller! The amount of rust on each car is minimal (non structural) and I think I have slowed down, or stopped it's migration by sandblasting, drying, and libral applications of rust inhibitors and then did cosmetics using non-moisture absorbing epoxy.

I'm new to this forum as a member, it's too bad the trust here has to be cautioned as buyer-beware!

Hy Tom -- I hadn't noticed your location until now! You're not far from where I do my Guard duty. I live clear up in Charleston, but would GLADLY bring the car to you if you have time and inclination to tackle something of this magnitude. If I can figure out how to post pics, I will. Or I can send you some.

Man, I'd GLADLY pay someone who's done this before to do the job right. I can cut things out with my little cutting wheel, but that's about the extent of my body work abilities.

Thanks again, all;

Chris

__________________
1992 300D 2.5T
1980 Euro 300D (sadly, sold)
1998 Jetta TDI, 132K "Rudy"
1974 Triumph TR6
1999 Saab 9-5 wagon (wife's)