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  #1  
Old 02-14-2005, 09:51 PM
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Question Rust stoppers.

What do you use to stop rust???

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  #2  
Old 02-14-2005, 10:04 PM
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Fertan or phosphoric acid ( MetalPrep ) or sandblasting.
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  #3  
Old 02-14-2005, 10:06 PM
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whunter,

Simple. I don't drive the car in any salt. Works every time I do it.

P E H
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Old 02-14-2005, 10:08 PM
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I'm going to give the POR15 line a go. I ordered a starter kit, which has marineclean, a rust preper and the por15 itself. Going to try it on the rocker panel and then the body areas, as soon as it's decent outside enough to do so (no garage ).

Can't tell you anything about it yet, but once I do the project, I'll be posting comments/pictures.
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  #5  
Old 02-14-2005, 10:39 PM
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Anyone try thePOR-15 website? Well the link is here now for reference.
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  #6  
Old 02-14-2005, 10:54 PM
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Avoid salt.

Also axle grease is a great way to prevent rust before it starts. A healthy coat on jack points seems to do wonders.
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  #7  
Old 02-14-2005, 11:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hatterasguy
Avoid salt.

Also axle grease is a great way to prevent rust before it starts. A healthy coat on jack points seems to do wonders.
Unfortunately this seems to be the salt capital of the world. There's no such thing as a black car in State College ... only dithered salty gray. My car's been a year-round daily driver for its entire life anyway, so it came with rust when my dad gave it to me (although less than I would expect compared to most cars in our family!). I'll do the best I can with it, and maybe someday get a "winter car" to do the salty travel. Will try the axle grease, though, on parts that haven't been hit by the rust bug yet ...
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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  #8  
Old 02-14-2005, 11:51 PM
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I do the summer and winter cars.

When I was in the Navy a relatively new 'primer' came out. The stuff was clear and smelled pretty toxic. Get to bare metal, put the stuff on and let it dry, then paint over it. Lasted a couple of years versus the old primer and paint which lasted about six months. I now wonder if it was really epoxy.
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  #9  
Old 02-15-2005, 12:06 AM
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I have used POR-15 with good results on several vehicles. You can order a special fiberglass type fabric from them and then paint on several coats of POR-15 for a really strong repair over holes. It is nasty stuff, but really strong. I got some on my shoes several years ago and it is still there.
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  #10  
Old 02-15-2005, 12:10 AM
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Who said they were from State College?? Ever see a 300TD driving around???
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  #11  
Old 02-15-2005, 12:20 AM
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I wrote up a quick little how-to with my POR-15 experience:

http://www.flexistentialist.org/archives/2005/02/09/rust_control_wit.shtml

It has a very good reputation, and is easy to use. You can lay it down right on rust, and then do whatever you want over it, paint, bondo, fiberglass, epoxy, anything. The metal is protected, so you can go nuts on top of that.

I'm going to be tackling a little surface rust on my jack holes soon with the POR-15, and then I'll lay down another layer of rubberized undercoating over the POR-15'd areas.

I wish I had the luxury of not driving all winter, or owning a fleet of cars in a big garage, but community outreach education is not a very high income career choice. In the meantime, regular cleaning and quick treatment of problem areas with POR-15 is the name of the game.

peace,
sam
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  #12  
Old 02-15-2005, 05:34 AM
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I used POR-15 when I rebuilt my Tr6 frame 4 years ago. The stuff works great - after 3 summers of driving the stuff looks like the day I applied it.

I even applied a little to the shop floor at school - without prepping the floor and it took a whole year of abuse - with minimal wear.

POR-15 is my new friend - next to my imaginary ones

Aivars Berzins

PS wear gloves when applying or be prepared to wear POR-15 on your skin until it wears off
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  #13  
Old 02-15-2005, 10:06 AM
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Lightbulb

I use POR-15 too and it is a great product backed by good company service. However there are times when there's just too much area but little time to do it all in time. To help keep up with rust prevention my tool box includes Fluid Film spray. This stuff works fast and easy. The heavier rusty areas can be sprayed on "thick" then with a brush spread out easily.
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  #14  
Old 02-15-2005, 10:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselBone
Who said they were from State College?? Ever see a 300TD driving around???
Not yet DieselBone, but I just moved here three weeks ago. What color? I'll keep my eye out ... I'm always on the lookout for Benzes here. Not as many as were in my old home town, but I've seen a couple nice 124s, a 123, a 126 and one "baby Benz" version of my car. Haven't spotted a wagon yet, though. I'm in a (now shamefully dirty) white '87 300D ... give a honk if you see me!
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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  #15  
Old 02-15-2005, 11:37 AM
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"my tool box includes Fluid Film spray."

I was just about to post that... there are some good threads in the archives about that stuff.... my Ford Tractor dealer carries it.... it is lanolin ( sheep oil ) based.

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