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#1
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10% Off on POR-15 Rust Treatment
Actually, its 10% off on any of the products on this website:
www.porstore.com Coupon Code: POR-331 Does not apply to specials and may not be combined with other coupons. ------------------------ Springtime is near and soon the winter's rust will need treatment. I'm not affiliated with either the manufacturer or the retailer. But I should own part of the company by now considering my purchases to take care of the MB steel. Ken300D
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-------------------------- 1982 300D at 351K miles 1984 300SD at 217K miles 1987 300D at 370K miles |
#2
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Rust treatment
Ken does that stuff work. If so how do you put it on and work with it, lets say I have a little rust bubble in my fender.
Tom Scordato |
#3
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Cool great info...thats not cheap stuff.
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Proud owner of .... 1971 280SE W108 1979 300SD W116 1983 300D W123 1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper 1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel 1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified) --------------------- Section 609 MVAC Certified --------------------- "He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche |
#4
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Quote:
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1992 300D 2.5T 1980 Euro 300D (sadly, sold) 1998 Jetta TDI, 132K "Rudy" 1974 Triumph TR6 1999 Saab 9-5 wagon (wife's) |
#5
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It does seem to work very well in stopping rust. Its even good on battery trays because it can resist the battery acid. One of the best resources on how to use POR-15 is the information found on the web site itself - just look through the links.
For a fender bubble I would say it would do well, provided you can work to treat/paint both the inside and outside surfaces. In most cases a rust bubble is going to progress from the inside out, so by the time you see it the metal is pretty thin. On the 240D I have rust bubbles that have popped. Ken300D
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-------------------------- 1982 300D at 351K miles 1984 300SD at 217K miles 1987 300D at 370K miles |
#6
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Their website is pretty informative, and their product does what they claim it does (it better, it isn't cheap stuff).
I did write up this quick how-to on it, as well: http://www.flexistentialist.org/archives/2005/02/09/rust_control_wit.shtml Peace, sam
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"That f***in' biodiesel is makin' me hungry." 1982 300TD Astral Silver w/ 250k (BIO BNZ) 2001 Aprilia SR50 Corsa Red w/ 5.5k (>100 MPG) |
#7
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Quote:
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Bill Reimels Now down to one: 1972 300SE 3.5 W109 (Euro delivery) |
#8
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The easy part is the part I'm best at.
Welding in new metal is the best type of repair, but quality body fillers are not a bad thing, assuming the metal underneath is well sealed. Typically someone just bondos over the rust, moisture is trapped, the rust grows, and the bondo falls off a few years later exposing a hideous cancer. But if you seal the rust and use a quality epoxy filler, it'll last as long as the rest of the panel. I'm still getting better at that part, so this POR-15 job was basically a 'stop the horror' measure until I get better at the body filling part. And of course in non-visible locations like the spare tire compartment, battery tray, or trunk bed a repair like mine is perfectly acceptable, the black POR-15 holds its color well, and is a typical color for interior metal anyway. peace, sam
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"That f***in' biodiesel is makin' me hungry." 1982 300TD Astral Silver w/ 250k (BIO BNZ) 2001 Aprilia SR50 Corsa Red w/ 5.5k (>100 MPG) |
#9
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Quote:
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Bill Reimels Now down to one: 1972 300SE 3.5 W109 (Euro delivery) |
#10
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POR 15 is a variant of marine barge paint. Super duty layers of protection. The basic material is aerobic. it cures with oxygen, and not as a result of drying solvent. Any trapped air under the coat will be absorbed by the POR stuff. Therefore if you prep properly, pretreat with zinc and apply POR 15 completely, no oxygen will penetrate the POR coating (unless its scratched)and no iron will react with oxygen to make rust.
I have used this stuff for 10 years with great success. Even used it as a primer for 4 sets of outside doors on my house. With 10 years of exposure to constant Florida humidity and dew, I have one line of rust on one door as a result of my missing an overlap of coat. The doors were already 8 years old when I did this job and were pocmarked with rust dimples and spots. I took down the doors and sanded down to bare metal. The POR has a hard surface. The toughest part of my door job was getting the acrylic paint to stick. It would literally slide of the Por primed doors. Great Stuff and it is really expensive. The key is to get the metal absolutely rust free. |
#11
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I picked up a couple gallons to try on one of the most severe applications on my paper machine framework. I have not found anything yet that last more than about 3 or 4 months. I'll let you know how it works out.
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Jim |
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