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  #1  
Old 03-04-2005, 03:05 PM
Registered Diesel Burner
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Northern Virginia
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10% Off on POR-15 Rust Treatment

Actually, its 10% off on any of the products on this website:

www.porstore.com

Coupon Code: POR-331

Does not apply to specials and may not be combined with other coupons.

------------------------

Springtime is near and soon the winter's rust will need treatment.

I'm not affiliated with either the manufacturer or the retailer. But I should own part of the company by now considering my purchases to take care of the MB steel.

Ken300D
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  #2  
Old 03-04-2005, 03:10 PM
Tom Scordato
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Bellefonte PA
Posts: 192
Rust treatment

Ken does that stuff work. If so how do you put it on and work with it, lets say I have a little rust bubble in my fender.

Tom Scordato
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  #3  
Old 03-04-2005, 03:15 PM
boneheaddoctor's Avatar
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Cool great info...thats not cheap stuff.
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  #4  
Old 03-04-2005, 03:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tscorda
Ken does that stuff work. If so how do you put it on and work with it, lets say I have a little rust bubble in my fender.

Tom Scordato
POR-15 works like a champ. You remove whatever rust you can (I use a wire wheel on a drill), treat it with their "Metal Ready" solution, rinse with water, and then paint the POR-15 on. It dries to a hard suface similar to what you'd get with powder coating. Nice stuff. It has worked VERY well for me. They also sell a putty that fills well.
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  #5  
Old 03-04-2005, 03:47 PM
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It does seem to work very well in stopping rust. Its even good on battery trays because it can resist the battery acid. One of the best resources on how to use POR-15 is the information found on the web site itself - just look through the links.

For a fender bubble I would say it would do well, provided you can work to treat/paint both the inside and outside surfaces. In most cases a rust bubble is going to progress from the inside out, so by the time you see it the metal is pretty thin.

On the 240D I have rust bubbles that have popped.

Ken300D
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  #6  
Old 03-04-2005, 04:07 PM
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Their website is pretty informative, and their product does what they claim it does (it better, it isn't cheap stuff).

I did write up this quick how-to on it, as well:

http://www.flexistentialist.org/archives/2005/02/09/rust_control_wit.shtml

Peace,
sam
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  #7  
Old 03-04-2005, 05:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phidauex
Their website is pretty informative, and their product does what they claim it does (it better, it isn't cheap stuff).

I did write up this quick how-to on it, as well:

http://www.flexistentialist.org/archives/2005/02/09/rust_control_wit.shtml

Peace,
sam
Nice write up but you covered the really easy part of just sealing the rust. However going beyond that to make a complete repair is the really tricky part. Dealing with the cavities without resorting to filling them with bondo is tough. Welding new metal in is the prefered method but you have to open up the holes to get to solid metal then shape new sheet metal patches. Of course welding them in exposes bare metal inside so that has to be dealt with. On surface rust I have problems with POR-15 because it does not sand to a taper so its difficult to blend in. In short there is no easy way to a cosmetic repair unless you go for the migrant worker look...
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  #8  
Old 03-04-2005, 05:23 PM
phidauex's Avatar
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The easy part is the part I'm best at.

Welding in new metal is the best type of repair, but quality body fillers are not a bad thing, assuming the metal underneath is well sealed. Typically someone just bondos over the rust, moisture is trapped, the rust grows, and the bondo falls off a few years later exposing a hideous cancer. But if you seal the rust and use a quality epoxy filler, it'll last as long as the rest of the panel.

I'm still getting better at that part, so this POR-15 job was basically a 'stop the horror' measure until I get better at the body filling part. And of course in non-visible locations like the spare tire compartment, battery tray, or trunk bed a repair like mine is perfectly acceptable, the black POR-15 holds its color well, and is a typical color for interior metal anyway.

peace,
sam
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  #9  
Old 03-04-2005, 05:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phidauex
But if you seal the rust and use a quality epoxy filler, it'll last as long as the rest of the panel.
I did that kind of repair to my 250SE. I problem I have is that the metal and epoxy expand at different rates with temperature. The result has been a noticeable junction between the repair and metal has arisen that seems to get worse each year. If I was going to spend any money on a good paint job I would never put it over a bondo only repair. Those fillers work fine to fill in small imperfections but they need to be backed up with metal or you will be in trouble.
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  #10  
Old 03-04-2005, 06:46 PM
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Location: Clermont, FL
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POR 15 is a variant of marine barge paint. Super duty layers of protection. The basic material is aerobic. it cures with oxygen, and not as a result of drying solvent. Any trapped air under the coat will be absorbed by the POR stuff. Therefore if you prep properly, pretreat with zinc and apply POR 15 completely, no oxygen will penetrate the POR coating (unless its scratched)and no iron will react with oxygen to make rust.

I have used this stuff for 10 years with great success. Even used it as a primer for 4 sets of outside doors on my house. With 10 years of exposure to constant Florida humidity and dew, I have one line of rust on one door as a result of my missing an overlap of coat. The doors were already 8 years old when I did this job and were pocmarked with rust dimples and spots. I took down the doors and sanded down to bare metal.

The POR has a hard surface. The toughest part of my door job was getting the acrylic paint to stick. It would literally slide of the Por primed doors.

Great Stuff and it is really expensive. The key is to get the metal absolutely rust free.
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  #11  
Old 03-04-2005, 07:06 PM
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I picked up a couple gallons to try on one of the most severe applications on my paper machine framework. I have not found anything yet that last more than about 3 or 4 months. I'll let you know how it works out.
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