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#1
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Rust prevention pointers...
I have a new to me. 1981 240 with ZERO rust fromLas Vegas.... I am looking to continue trying to keep it rust free but it will be driven here in Utah with salty winter roads and occasional rains.
I am going to use my home made waxoyl rust treatment underneath . I was wondering where the drain areas are on a 123 body that may need attention? I notiice the cavity under the hood where the hood springs come to rest fills with water and takes forever to drain out. Are there specific areas I should try to clean and treat with something // even WD 40 would work to displace water. I say this cause my car is sitting outside gettin 3" of snow on it right now I don't have an extra garage for it either... what to do. |
#2
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There are drains under the hood springs that are probably plugged or partially restricted.
There's no shortcut that I know of--just get the salt off as soon as possible. Underside of doors and the jackpoints, as well as the back edges of wheel wells, are the most likely first rust spots. |
#3
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waxoyl
There is a product called waxoyl that is commonly used in the UK to prevent rust. It is a preventative and not a cure.
__________________
With best regards Al |
#4
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If you are close to a New HOlland/Ford tractor place you can find ' fluidfilm'.. do a search here to read about it...
Find ALL the drains... in bottom of doors also.... and get them cleaned out... and keep them cleaned out.... |
#5
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Man I hear ya. Just due diligence in pressure washing the underbody and keeping a close eye out for small newly forming spots is my strategy. I already nuked the hell out of one spot, the driver's trunk drain, and don't see any others yet, but I've only had the car 9 months. I got a rolled up blue paper towel and spread some axle grease on it and ran it up in the jack points, then installed plugs. Rockers look good on mine, PO went ape***** and coated them with something not very OEM but it's thick and hard and glossy black. These cars will rust, mine will rust, yours will rust. Everything rusts. I saw a late model Jetta with paint swells on the rear fender.
I like the FluidFilm idea and will try it soon as I get a round tuit.
__________________
'02 BMW 325i '85 300D 450k '93 190E 2.6 170k(killed by tree) '08 Ducati Hypermotard 1100S 6k '06 Ducati S2R800 14k(sold) |
#6
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I believe there are two things that cause rust: Unprotected metal and moisture. Salt accelerates the process. Dirt, dust, etc. trap water (and salt) and hold it close to the metal where it can do the most damage. The older the paint and undercoating the more likely it will have small cracks and chips that will allow the corrosion to start. Ironically frequent washing with water will prolong the life of the vehicle by removing dirt, dust, etc. and keeping moisture traps to a minimum. Obviously drains should be keep clear. I have hot water to an outside spigot and valves so I can mix in cold and to get nice warm wash water. Whenever the temp gets above freezing in winter the vehicles get washed with particular attention to thoroughly rinsing the underside, suspension and wheelwells. Every spring I perform a thorough cleaning wiping all the crud out from under doors, behind weatherstrip lips, doorjambs, wheelwell lips, etc. I have Waxoyl'd the truck and the product seems to work well. Nothing beats keeping it clean. One more tip: Use a sprinkler under the car and move it around every couple of minutes to really rinse out the underside. RT
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When all else fails, vote from the rooftops! 84' Mercedes Benz 300D Anthracite/black, 171K 03' Volkswagen Jetta TDI blue/black, 93K 93' Chevrolet C2500HD ExCab 6.5TD, Two-tone blue, 252K |
#7
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benett,
The only rust preventive that really works is keeping your car out of the salt. Don't drive your car in the salt now and wish later on you wouldn't have when it is a rusty piece of junk and too late. Get a beater car for the winter and keep your MB like it is now. P E H |
#8
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Quote:
Thats what I do with my W116....its a rust free Tempe AZ car...it stays parked untill the road salt has been washed away by rain......
__________________
Proud owner of .... 1971 280SE W108 1979 300SD W116 1983 300D W123 1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper 1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel 1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified) --------------------- Section 609 MVAC Certified --------------------- "He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche |
#9
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Quote:
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#10
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Waxoyl
Waxoyl should go on the inside of the panels. (inside the doors, on the floor etc). Underseal should go on the outside.
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With best regards Al |
#11
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other drains
are in the trunk left and right side under the plastic panels.
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currently [1981 300 td tdidi 165500 dark brown/palamino-Brownie-mine-3k miles of ownership 1983 240d 162+++ Anthricite grey w/ henna red interior and hella lights-wifes car-Red the above two cars are for sale and can be seen on the cars for sale thread here. pix also available. 240d-144+ Manilla Yellow w/ palmino interior-greasecar kit-Blondie-the college kids car 23" gt 21 speed still on original tires-still got the nubs 21" khs tandem |
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