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  #1  
Old 05-31-2005, 12:18 AM
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Rust Never Sleeps

I found a rust problem in the trunk under the tail lights - rust. Took a little bit of figuring to see how the water got in (prior to the gapping hole from the rust). I traced it down to imperfections in the weld seams between the rear upper body panel and the quarter panel. The rear upper body panel had been replace by the first owner (I am the second owner) at what I now believe to be an other than Mercedes body shop. I do not think a dealer body shop would make this kind of mistake. Anyway, the welding imperfection allowed water running down the trunk line to seep in behind the top of the tail light. This is why there was no rust in the forward part of the lower quarter panel extensions. The first picture is of the imperfection on the driver's side of the car and the second is after I ground it down, smoothing out the bumps with greated gaps in the tail light rubber seal.

The third (note rear bumper bolt) and fourth pictures are of the damage to the driver's side lower quarter panel extension.

Note that some pictures have portions deleted out. This was done so I could meet the size limitation.

More will follow shortly . . .
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Rust Never Sleeps-dscf1108a.jpg   Rust Never Sleeps-dscf1113a.jpg   Rust Never Sleeps-dscf0955a.jpg   Rust Never Sleeps-dscf0975a.jpg  
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Old 05-31-2005, 12:23 AM
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The next three pictures are the damage on the passenger side. The following two are damages areas cut out on the passenger side. The rust just seemed to keep going!

More to follow . . .
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Rust Never Sleeps-dscf0947a.jpg   Rust Never Sleeps-dscf0948a.jpg   Rust Never Sleeps-dscf0948b.jpg   Rust Never Sleeps-dscf1070a.jpg   Rust Never Sleeps-dscf1070b.jpg  

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Old 05-31-2005, 12:28 AM
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One more of the cut out on the passenger side.

Next are some pictures of the replacement lower quarter panel extension being sized in.

Then the replacement part welded in.

More to follow . . .
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Rust Never Sleeps-dscf1066a.jpg   Rust Never Sleeps-dscf1079a.jpg   Rust Never Sleeps-dscf1079b.jpg   Rust Never Sleeps-dscf1100a.jpg   Rust Never Sleeps-dscf1100b.jpg  

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Old 05-31-2005, 12:28 AM
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Ow....I feel for ya man. Finding rust is like being diagnosed with cancer. I hope you plan to bondofy that stuff or the car's gonna fall apart when you hit a speed bump some day.
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Old 05-31-2005, 12:30 AM
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More of the replacement part welded in . . .

More to follow . . .
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Rust Never Sleeps-dscf1102a.jpg   Rust Never Sleeps-dscf1102b.jpg   Rust Never Sleeps-dscf1103a.jpg   Rust Never Sleeps-dscf1103b.jpg   Rust Never Sleeps-dscf1103c.jpg  

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Old 05-31-2005, 12:37 AM
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I forgot to take pictures of the replacement metal after initially priming it, so that much is missing.

I did, however, take more pictures after applying the seam sealer. I kind of went overboard with it. I fugured once I open the tube I going to use it up. I've got another tube for the driver's side repair. They're next . . .

I'm waiting for the seam sealer to totally dry before putting on more primer and another coat of more presentable paint.

The best thing about this area for rust is the repair will be covered over with undercoating from the bottom and the trunk lining from the top. These two spots and one on the rear of the driver's side rear wheel well are the only spots of rust I could find after extensive searching.

I'll post more as I do it.
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Old 05-31-2005, 12:41 AM
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Possibly the backside of the previous repair was not treated to prevent rust either. That looked pretty bad for your neck of the woods. This far north the protection of the backside of the repair is even more important or we are just spinning our wheels. Looks like you are doing the repair well. Really wish we could drive our old diesels longer each year this far north but come late fall away they have to go to climate controlled storage. Almost wants to make me move to a better climate.
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Old 05-31-2005, 12:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barry123400
Possibly the backside of the previous repair was not treated to prevent rust either.
I have hopefully found all of it. There was seam sealer previously applied, but there was unsufficient cleaning before. They did a real good job with the paint - you really can't tell the difference.

It is a real pain to take the time to fix the rust right, but at least it is only once. About twenty years ago I learned my lesson covering rust with bondo - might as well use Elmer's Glue and construction paper.
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Last edited by pwogaman; 09-06-2006 at 09:35 AM.
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Old 05-31-2005, 02:43 AM
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Problem with bondo is it is hydroscopic I think the word is and absorbs moisture. Fills like fibrefill are basically more like fibreglass and tend not to absorb moisture to the same extent. Before application of bondo I always start with a coat of it first to get a seal. Agree totally rust cannot be buried but if it cannot be totally eliminated I try to slow it down to some extent by spaying on a coat of grease and oil in places like inside rocker panels after the repairs and paint are done.
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