I noticed rust starting to bubble the paint on the drivers door of my 230k, it appears to have started behind the door molding and slowly has progressed to the point where it has become a bit visible where the door indents for the molding. You have to have a good eye to catch it, but it is there, and it inevitably will spread.

My question is, is there such a thing as a successful rust repair process, OR are they basically just "band aids" or temporary fixes until the rust inevitably comes back?

I'm not that worried about it, because it is isolated on a replaceable panel (the door) and not on the frame or rear quarter panel, which requires major surgery to replace.

Should I just look for a clean rust-free door as a replacement, or should I talk to a body shop about repairing the existing damage on the door? I want it done once, and done right.

What do you guys think?

Thanks in advance,

George

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George Androulakis

Former Mb's:

1990 500sl R129 - 76k Original Miles - New project - Follow the saga http://90r129.blogspot.com/
1990 190E 2.6 148k mi (sold)
1989 420 SEL 246k mi (sold)
1995 C220 175k mi (sold)
1992 190e 2.6 74k original miles (sold)
2000 c230 Kompressor 122k miles (RIP)
1996 C220 149k mi (sold)
2000 C230 Kompressor Sport 127k (sold)

Current Cars:

2009 Mercedes c300 4matic
2006 Mercedes s430
2005 Jaguar XJR
2003 Cadillac Escalade

I would do some searches on this site for rust!

I believe if you have using the dealership for service. The car is under a ? 20 year rust warrentee. Allow your dealership to replace the door completely. There has been several W210 problems where they replace 4 doors, hood, trunk, fenders. Seen substructure and spring perch repairs also.

I'd purse having the dealership fix it.

Normally, if you remove the offending rust (and there is none left), you weld in replacement metal, true with hammer, dolly and a litte filler. Repaint and restore the rust protection inside the panel- go to go.

Michael

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Michael McGuire
83 300d
01 vw A4 TDI
66 Chevy Corsa
68 GMC V6 w/oD
86 300E

I just bought the car recently. Through a wholesaler friend of mine. It was a lease return that was sold starmark by the same MB dealer, and traded back in to that same MB dealer, who in turn sold it to the wholesaler.

The car was starmarked and under warranty till 2/23/05.

I called MB and they said that the original corrosion warranty was 4yrs/50k, but it was extended to 5yrs/100k under the starmark warranty, which like I said, expired 2/23/05. Could I argue that the rust started before then so it should be retroactively covered?

Take care,

George

__________________
George Androulakis

Former Mb's:

1990 500sl R129 - 76k Original Miles - New project - Follow the saga http://90r129.blogspot.com/
1990 190E 2.6 148k mi (sold)
1989 420 SEL 246k mi (sold)
1995 C220 175k mi (sold)
1992 190e 2.6 74k original miles (sold)
2000 c230 Kompressor 122k miles (RIP)
1996 C220 149k mi (sold)
2000 C230 Kompressor Sport 127k (sold)

Current Cars:

2009 Mercedes c300 4matic
2006 Mercedes s430
2005 Jaguar XJR
2003 Cadillac Escalade

Yes....it's called a smelter, slag flotation plant.

__________________
[http://languageandgrammar.com/2008/01/14/youve-got-problems-not-issues/ ]

"A liberal is someone who feels they owe a great debt to their fellow man, which debt he proposes to pay off with your money."

These newer MBs seem to be rust buckets....I'll still buy the W202 though but people you MUST rustproof every yr!

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99 C43
98 S420
99 C230K
01 C240

What are the terms of the warranty with regard to corrosion? The industry usually warraties against rust perforation, meaning rust has to go through the thickness of the metal. Oherwise they'd have to honor claims for everybody here in the rust belt that drives on dirt roads and has corrosion form the rock chips in the paint.

I agree with benzonline, start your car on a rustproofing program.

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95 E320 Cabriolet, 159K

not that this will help your particular problem but POR-15 replaces rust and water actually makes it harder and more impervious to further rust. Google POR-15. g.

I know about por 15, but It's going to be hard to make a cosmetically suitable repair - I mean you DO have to get all the old paint off and loose rust before you apply it right?

I guess my basic question is, should I attempt a rust repair path, or try to find a new door (preferably with factory paint in the same color), and just replace the entire door.

I have both seen and heard horror stories of people spending thousands on extensive rust repair, only to have it return within a few years.

Take care,

George

__________________
George Androulakis

Former Mb's:

1990 500sl R129 - 76k Original Miles - New project - Follow the saga http://90r129.blogspot.com/
1990 190E 2.6 148k mi (sold)
1989 420 SEL 246k mi (sold)
1995 C220 175k mi (sold)
1992 190e 2.6 74k original miles (sold)
2000 c230 Kompressor 122k miles (RIP)
1996 C220 149k mi (sold)
2000 C230 Kompressor Sport 127k (sold)

Current Cars:

2009 Mercedes c300 4matic
2006 Mercedes s430
2005 Jaguar XJR
2003 Cadillac Escalade