W126 The HORRORS - Rear window RUST!! Help!
 

We took out our rear window on the '83 today to see what the damage from rust was and to take care of it, and this is what we were met with (beware, many pictures) the HORRORS :eek: :eek:

Any help or suggesstions on how to deal with this would be very very much appreciated. :eek: :o

Here they are:

http://www.tglmarketinginc.com/pics/...t/57220001.jpg

http://www.tglmarketinginc.com/pics/...t/57220003.jpg

http://www.tglmarketinginc.com/pics/...t/57220004.jpg

http://www.tglmarketinginc.com/pics/...t/57220005.jpg

More Pictures:

http://www.tglmarketinginc.com/pics/...t/57220006.jpg

http://www.tglmarketinginc.com/pics/...t/57220008.jpg

http://www.tglmarketinginc.com/pics/...t/57220011.jpg

http://www.tglmarketinginc.com/pics/...t/57220012.jpg

http://www.tglmarketinginc.com/pics/...t/57220013.jpg

http://www.tglmarketinginc.com/pics/...t/57220014.jpg

http://www.tglmarketinginc.com/pics/...t/57220015.jpg

Even more:

http://www.tglmarketinginc.com/pics/...t/57220016.jpg

http://www.tglmarketinginc.com/pics/...t/57220017.jpg

http://www.tglmarketinginc.com/pics/...t/57220018.jpg

http://www.tglmarketinginc.com/pics/...t/57220019.jpg

http://www.tglmarketinginc.com/pics/...t/57220020.jpg

http://www.tglmarketinginc.com/pics/...t/57220022.jpg

http://www.tglmarketinginc.com/pics/...t/57220023.jpg

Help on this???? :o :o :(

sand, apply POR-15 rust killer, then weld like metal or worser use fiberglass to build up.

i feel for ya! i wonder what is under my sd rear glass?

grind, weld and POR-15. Don't be afraid to cut the rust out, it has to go. You don't have to duplicate the old metal exactly though. Mig in strips where inside and outside panels are pointing AT each other, then butt weld PERPENDICULAR another strip the thickness of the 2 pieces where they are spotwelded together. Yeah, it's work, but it's probably a lot more doable than you think.

I also found the same thing on my 83sd, rear window leaking, removed the window and I just about freaked out but my auto body guy said,"relax" and as Pete Burton said" It is more doable than you think". The auto body guy took an air powerd wizzer and proceeded to cut out all the cancer. He left high spots where ever he could so the glass would sit right. Then he formed 2 pieces of L stock together and bent to fit. He then fit it so it becme the pinch weld where the glass sits, he drilled sm holes in the base of the L and pop rivetedon to the body, he then put some sort of smoo or body gooo, and reassembled it and installed the glass. That was almost 2 years ago and no leaks. steve 83sd

My eyes, my eyes! That's a very unpleasant image ... :(

Step 1: shop vac
Beyond that, I'd say get some products from POR15. Marine Clean, Metal Ready and then POR15 SILVER ... I ordered their "starter pack," but I would say you need more than that. As for welding/building up, I can't tell you a thing (I'll let the other guys help ya there), but whatever bare metal youre left with, clean with Marine Clean, prep with metal Ready and then paint over two or three layers of the silver POR15. I don't think you need to put a coat of primer or paint over top that, since the area isn't exposed to much sunlight, right?

P.S. ... that's what my entire 240D looks like! :pukeface:

Holy molly :eek: you got your work cut out for you I do have to say that...

Now your going to make me pull my rear window to check. One more thing on the list. :mad: ;)

Thanks for all the comments and suggesstions, The guy at the glass place said "thats going to cost like $5000 to fix!" So my dad went: :eek: Good thing I can assure him it most certainly will not. That guy must have been crazy......or he just knows about glass and not body/rust-repair...he did a good job getting the window out intact.......we'll look into the solutions you all mentioned here, thanks!!

Repair shops see the MB star and dollar signs light up in their eyes.

Cut out the rust, sandblast what you can't cut out, MIG weld in replacements. Prime with epoxy and paint. Visit your local body shop supply store. Visit your local junkyard for sheetmetal.

Don't buy rusty cars.

I'm almost certain I'm going to find the same thing on my 300SD. It has rusted through on the underside of the window in the trunk so I can only imagine what the lip where the window sits actually looks like. My 380 leaks too after replacing the rear glass, but its in the garage for the time being.

I wonder if someone had already pulled the glass out to find a mess like that and just put the glass back in. The rear seal looks kinda new but I have a new one ready to go just in case. It was missing the chrome window trim too when I got it, but I have since picked up a set. Would not having that rear trim in place be enough to cause it to leak? I can definitly push on the glass in the corners and see it move...

When I did mine 2 years ago, $100.00 to the window man, to pull and replace and $89.00 for the MB window seal and $150.00 to the auto body man to fix it. steve 83sd