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Old 11-09-2005, 12:21 PM
Coming back from burnout
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: in the Pacific Northwest
Posts: 2,274
Use "Tiger Hair" Putty or Weld to repair some rust damage.(85 300D).

I've got some rust breakout around the outside edges of my rear wheel wells of my 85 300D. Part of me says try to get it welded, and the other part says just use the Best Putty you can find to repair it. I eventually hope to restore this car to NEW or near new, but cost is a consideration.

PRO's/CONs Welding: I have heard that welding on Mercedes 85 300D is not so good because of high lead content of stelel and in the end you need Putty anyway to finish it...

PRO's/CONs Putty: Putty always breaks out in 5 years, which is how long I have had this car.

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Old 11-09-2005, 12:31 PM
boneheaddoctor's Avatar
Senior Benz fanatic
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Hells half acre (Great Falls, Virginia)
Posts: 16,007
you have to cut the rust out...if you don't its going to be ten time worse in a very short time....

You treat rust like you would treat cancer....

if the car already has terminal cancer then by all means bondo away to keep it looking decent till its ready for the crusher....
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
Section 609 MVAC Certified
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche
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Old 11-09-2005, 12:53 PM
rg2098's Avatar
Detailing Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Rochester Hills, MI
Posts: 2,415
I would cut and weld. I have seen jobs done where the rust was cut out and new metal "glued" in, however I would not recommend it.
Adam Lumsden
(83) 300D
Vice-President of the MBCA International Stars Section
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Old 11-09-2005, 02:23 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: RI shore
Posts: 2,937
What I've started (and plan to finish soon - really!)

1. Cut out rust (within reason)

2. wire wheel/strip back a little

3. Weld in new steel behind the hole

4. Treat with a phosphoric acid solution

5. Coat the new and pitted steel with Rust Bullet

6. Fill with short strand fiberglass filler to contour

7. Prime, paint, clearcoat and compound

I'm at steps 3-4 now, we'll see.
'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue"

"Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement."

listen, look, .........and duck.
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Old 11-09-2005, 05:19 PM
Admiral-Third World Fleet
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Central FL
Posts: 3,068
I have seen jobs done where the rust was cut out and new metal "glued" in, however I would not recommend it.
Why not?

I have seen jobs where the rust was cut out and new metal was "glued" in.

I was perfectly satisfied with the result, and have been for 3 years.

I used Fusor 12B 2-part epoxy on the lower rear corner of the rear wheelwell arch. I "fused" a complex shape of about 5 pieces including flat patches for the trunk floor. I used a very minimum amount of kitty hair fiberglass to get a good contour. You can't tell it from the original.

I used it to patch small holes in the floor. I have some much bigger projects in mind for this stuff.

The beauty of it is that it does not induce corrosion like a weld would.


80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)
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