I don't think we'll need to use a pry bar or take the wheels off. My dad was able to separate the suspension BY HAND without a problem. :eek: (he's a tad strong...) And he plans to jam the sway bar back into the control arm the same way. :eek:

We are worrying about the rust, left untreated it will only get worse, so off it will go for repairs.

We've been following the Factory repair instructions and a haynes manual (only helpful to find torque specs for things :rolleyes: ) and have so far not had any problems. Our biggest problem is the inability of the stealership to get the correct parts..... :mad: I am heading over there in less than 15 minutes to get on their backs.

Big Progress!!!
 

Tonight we installed the new sway bar, we did not need a pry bar, nor to take the wheels off to do the job, and it worked just fine, we did have to pry a tad to get the left bracket on, but that was minor, we got the bar into the upper control arms without a problem. My dad then painted it all in rustoleum nice and spiffy, then we reattached the wires running across the firewall, and the brake line and its brackets, and the water duct for the windshield, then I took these pics and we called it a night.

Next step will be bulkhead reinstallation, then working on getting the climate control components back in, then the brakes and other firewall pieces, then we'll be very close to being done!! :eek: YAY!

Pics from tonight, note the nice new shiny black sway bar... :D

http://www.tglmarketinginc.com/mbfor...y/5Z290068.jpg

http://www.tglmarketinginc.com/mbfor...y/5Z290069.jpg

http://www.tglmarketinginc.com/mbfor...y/5Z290070.jpg

http://www.tglmarketinginc.com/mbfor...y/5Z290071.jpg

Man that's one heck of a repair job!!! What exactly does a sway bar do? Sorry but I'm still trying to learn about suspension stuff.

A sway bar counter acts the side to side body roll of the car, like when swerving or making a turn, it prevents it from leaning too much etc....on these cars it also aids in the steering and holding everything straight. This car was drifting heavily to the left when the bar snapped, but was still drivable. The bar broke in Chicago when my dad was on a business trip, he drove home 350 miles at 80-90mph no problem (except for the extra drifting)....these cars rock!! :D

pawosd, if I may make one suggestion. On the left side, look where the two A/C hoses come through the firewall. Notice that rubber grommet? Well, mine was torn and water would leak in during heavy rain and fall on my feet while driving. Yours does not look as bad as mine yet, but I would recommend wrapping duct tape or something around that better to insulate. I just stuffed a rag to insulate and it has been good for 9 months. To replace that grommet you have to disconnect the hoses which would release the freon (this would not be a problem for you since the A/C does not work). I would not worry about actually replacing it but I would look into sealing it better. Just a little suggestion from your neighbor to the south.

Thanks
David

It Drives!!!
 

Well, today I fixed the coolant air-lock issue, and started er' up again. No overheating, runs great!!! Nothing leaks, engine runs like a semi. Started in the 23 degree garage with a five second glow and only a few cranks (extremely healthy engine) Let it run a good long while, brought it up to 2500-3000rpm for a little while, then tested the climate control and everything else, all works great. :D Drove it out into the driveway, drove back and forth on the driveway a little bit, then put it away and shut it off. (its not insured, can't take it out of driveway..... :rolleyes: )


All thats left is fixing the rust issues, getting the right washer-tank pump grommet, tightening the lugs and inflating the tires, and back on the road it will be!!!! :D :D :D

.............we're waiting..........patiently.........:thumbsup:


Good job on getting it running. I know the feeling..........after 5 months.

nice job! one thing I see that am curious about, your hood spring. Is it really chromed? All of them I've seen are painted the same color as the vehicle. Just curious.

What a job!

Be sure your new sway bar doesn't have any scratches in the paint. Small scratches can lead to a failure long-term. If you are uncertain, try to coat the exposed/scratched areas with something to covers/protects the metall.

This is a bar whose life is about twisting and living in Michigan there is plenty of opportunity for corrosion.

Haasman

The bar itself is rarely the concern when it comes to rust, as its very thick and 90% of it is up behind the false bulkhead, so little if any water or salt ever reaches it anyways. The critical point is the thinner endpoints where the bar bolts into the upper control arm, this is where 99.99999% of failures happen, and is where it happened on this car's old bar. The new bar is a lot more robust than the old one on the ends, so I have little worry about it for the next...oh....25-30 years. :D The body of this car will have long passed away by that point....so its not an issue....

Good. I have seen torsion bars for suspensions fail early from scratches. That's why the concern.

Good luck with the project.

Haasman

Too early...