http://www.por15.com/

I just bought my first can.



You can get it locally easily. Most auto body paint supply houses will have in-stock sitting on a shelf.

This usually includes other POR products (Marine clean, etc...)

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-1983 VW Rabbit LS Diesel (5speed, VNT/Giles build)

I have used it extensively on my Toyota Land Cruiser rebuild. Its a great paint. Tough as nails to sand though.

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77 300D- new to me, lots of "issues" to deal with. But a nice unit.
Diesel man- 84 Toyota Diesel cruiser

Since purchasing my 300E I have become an avid fan of POR 15 and some of their other products. The attached pic illustrates one of the rust issues that I attacked and overcame thanks to POR 15 and another "secret" I picked up on. After noticing rust in the battery area, I removed the battery and discovered the tray was almost entirely gone. Once the remaining pieces of tray and other debris were removed, a hole appeared, not large (about silver dollar size) but a pending repair nonetheless.

Before proceeding I want to share this with you - Warning: Cover everything you do not want POR 15 to stick to cause once it dries you will have one heck of a challenge on your hands to get it removed - no pun intended. Wear hand protection at all times, tape off everything outside work area and follow any other precautions that may be suggested/required by the manufacturer!

To continue - the rusted surface was first sanded, wire brushed and scraped (not necessarily in that order) to clear the area of scale then vacuumed and washed clean with Metal Ready. Next I cut a piece of heavy fiberglass fabric about 2" larger than the hole, placed the fabric on a piece of cardboard and painted both sides with a coat of POR 15 heavy enough to saturate the fabric. Then I brushed a coat around the perimeter of the hole and when the paint on both the patch and the metal became tacky, not yet dry, the patch was pressed into the paint at the hole, stretched flat, edges feathered into the paint and left to dry about 2 hrs then coated again along with all the rest of the rusted metal.

The next morning the first thin layer of body putty was spread over the patch as well as any pits then sanded with subsequent layers applied/sanded until the surface was smooth. When the repair was ready, primer, color coat and clear coat were applied and I'm pleased to say, you wouldn't know it if I didn't tell you! Lastly, before putting the new battery tray in, it was sanded and covered on all sides and edges with POR 15 then topped with semi-gloss black Rust-Oleum - 2 1/2 years ago.

Note: I have no affiliation with the makers of POR 15 or any other of their products!

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'87 300E Arctic White/Palomino 154K miles

I wonder if the rust will eventually show up again after using this stuff. Always heard you have to 'cut it all out like cancer' otherwise it will return.

Anyone have long term experience with POR produts over rust?

Yes, I have long-term experience with POR-15. If it is applied properly per the instructions, the rust will NOT come back. The seal is compromised if you don't cover all the rust, or worse yet, when you sand through the coating. For instance, if you cover rust with POR-15 and then put bondo over it, when you sand the bondo you have to take care not to sand all the way through to the POR-15. If you do, the rust will come back.

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08 W251 R350
97 W210 E320
91 W124 300E
86 W126 560SEL
85 W126 380SE Silver
85 W126 380SE Cranberry
79 W123 250
78 W123 280E
75 W114 280

Last week the battery and battery tray were removed for a heater hose replacement. The repairs looked as good as they did when completed almost three years ago. No new/additional rust, blisters or peeling making me a happy camper.

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'87 300E Arctic White/Palomino 154K miles

I was very impressed with the stuff. I was given an 80's gm, that had typical the typical gm midsize cancer. POR-15 did the trick, patched the holes, and stopped the leaks!
Sold that beast, and loved it all the way to the bank!

I tell people all the time:
* Any splash - spill on shoes or clothing is forever.
* There is no better product in a reasonable price range.
* Never buy the quart or gallon, unless you can use ALL of it in a few days to a week, it will begin to harden once exposed to air.


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I assume this is the stuff also known as OSPHO? If so, paint, let dry, and paint again over areas where red showing through, and keep painting until no more red showing through. Then give one extra coast to be sure. can be used as a primer, . . . and yes, does start to harden when exposed to air, so don't get much more than you can use in a week.

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1983 300D, the "Avocado"
1976 240D, 4-spd the "Pumpkin", SOLD to Pierre
1984 190D, 2.2L, 5-spd, my intro to MBZ diesels, crashed into in 2002

OSPHO (what it's called at Marine Supply shops), if used correctly, will "convert" the rust to a sturdier compound though a chemical reaction. When the "red" stops showing through dried application, and additional coat applied, there should be no rust in the area again, especially, if finished with paint.

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1983 300D, the "Avocado"
1976 240D, 4-spd the "Pumpkin", SOLD to Pierre
1984 190D, 2.2L, 5-spd, my intro to MBZ diesels, crashed into in 2002

POR15 is not a rust converter product. If OSPHO is a converter, then they are not the same. Do not use a converter under the POR15; it will compromise the bonding of POR15.
Wear gloves, or you will wait weeks to get it off your skin.

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1982 300SD " Wotan" ..On the road as of Jan 8, 2007 with Historic Tags