Can anyone recommend a floorboard strengthening resin for my recently welded floorboard on my 85 300D that will

(1) Seal my recently welded floor
(2) Soundproof it
(3) Hide the cosmetic imperfections
(4) Provide it with a smooth water resistant surface
(5) Add a bit of structural support beyond the 20 guage steel I used

Some things I have considered are POR15 and Fiberglass Resin and Mesh. POR15 seems a bit hazy in its instructions.

PLEASE NOTE THat the car comes with a plasticy or floorboard coating that, as it ages and cracks, aids the corrosion process ( I think) because it traps water in its seams. However on some 85 300D's the whole area seems pristine.

Take a peek over at this web site this should get your creativity flowing. There sure is some cool new stuff to work with these days.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/main.do
Do a search under carbon fiber - it will bring up all sorts of ideas

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BENZ THERE DONE THAThttp://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...c/progress.gif
15 VW Passat TDI
00 E420
98 E300 DT
97 E420 Donor Car - NEED PARTS? PM ME!
97 S500
97 E300D
86 Holden Jackaroo Turbo D
86 300SDL
(o\|/o)

I used 18 gauge steel so there's not the same strength issue as you may be facing. You could always place a partial 18 gauge sheet on top of the 20 gauge sheet that is probably your nicely fit repair. Just tack it down into place.

There is a product by 3M corporation called "Seam Sealer" that is typically used to seal up the typical metal interface between welded sheets.

I'm planning to use foam mats and maybe outdoor carpet as an additional layer of material for sound isolation. The car sure needs it. Right now I'm using a single ear plug protector in my right ear when I have to drive at Interstate speeds. I tend to be more sensitive now in my older age about protecting my hearing when I think of much older family members who have lost a portion of their hearing.

For rust prevention I plan frequent inspections and POR-15 coatings. I don't want anything like undercoating or fiberglass layers to trap moisture.

Hope I pass state safety inspection.

Ken300D

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1982 300D at 351K miles
1984 300SD at 217K miles
1987 300D at 370K miles

I would not use resin and glass/ mesh on a floor of any gauge. The metal will flex and eventually delaminate the resin and glass mesh creating more problems with corrosion in the future.
Weld more fresh steel in where you feel it needs reinforcement...that would be your best bet!

Ken suggestion for 3M Seam Sealer, is a good one. You can get it in a can to brush it on the seams to simulate original factory sealing or in a caulking tube.
The stuff is rugged enough to use on both the inside and outside floorpan and wheel well seams. After you have seam sealed all your seams, undercoat the bottom of your floor pan with a good quality rubberized pro. undercoating. This stuff has come a long way in the last 10 years. Its very durable if you get the right stuff and it is a good sound proofer. Nothing though is going to spare you from a good inspection and touch up of your floorpan once in a while........

Good Luck!

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FRED

Daily Driver: 98 E300TD 199K
Hobby Car: 69 Austin Mini
Past Diesels: 84 300SD, 312K
87 300SDL, 251K
94 Chev. K-1500 6.5Ltr.TD, 373K

i've used "grizzlygrip" a catalized rubber coating that can be rolled or brushed {better rolled} seam seal all the jionts and grip the whole thing as for the bottum closest thing to o.e. 3M body schulth udercoat but you need the gun to spray it and air to power the gun those are the two products i've used they both cut down on the noise

This is exciting stuff, but I wish the Websites would have a .PDF on sample repairs, including instrcutions and materials needed. They have an overwhelming number of supplies but I'm not sure what to buy!!!

I'm a big fan of Internet shopping, because after sales tax, time, and gas, you can't beat it.............