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  #1  
Old 05-18-2006, 01:25 AM
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240d rust

How much rust do you have to have on the rocker panels and fenders to make one of these worthless to purchase as a daily driver, long time committment?
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  #2  
Old 05-18-2006, 02:01 AM
ForcedInduction
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Can you look at the drivers side fender and see out the passenger side?

But really. I'd draw the line if it allows water into the passenger cabin (Floor panels, door holes, firewall holes, roof holes, etc.).
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  #3  
Old 05-18-2006, 08:14 AM
Coming back from burnout
 
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Its all a matter of attitude

I had one like that for 6 years before i got around to fixing it by welding which is now. I'd be more worried about the mechanical side of things. A great body on bad mechanicals is far more worse.

You can live with it. Rocker panels are easy to patch with rivets and light guage steel and no one will even know.
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Old 05-18-2006, 11:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carrameow
A great body on bad mechanicals is far more worse.

In Wisconsin we say the oposite. You can always find great interiors and great mechanicals in the boneyard. The bodies are always rusty.
Go to a boneyard in Arizona and its just the opposite.
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  #5  
Old 05-18-2006, 12:19 PM
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dunl,

It depends on what U want to use the car for. If U are satisfied with the shape of the car as is and don't want to restore it, as long as it is structurally sound, its probably OK and U can get many low cost miles from it.

But if U have to have a car that looks like new, it is better to buy one that looks like new. This will cost far less than trying to restore a rusted one.

Here's my story: I bought a '79 300SD as a parts car in 1998. It was rusted badly but I wanted it for mechanical parts so I didn't care. It ran so good I decided I would use it as a winter car. It ran 8 years and 72,000 miles for repairs that cost about $400. I did all repairs myself of it would have cost much more. Cost per mile was about 2.2 cents not including tires, battery, fuel, INS and license.

Just recently I junked it because it would not pass inspection because of the advanced rust. But I planned for that and bought a replacement on ebay. I hope I have as good luck with one. My good '80 300SD still looks almost like new because I keep it in the garage all winter.

So, all I can say is "it all depends your situation" which only U can decide.

P E H
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  #6  
Old 05-18-2006, 02:44 PM
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I guess my point was this: I have heard that if the rust around the jacking points goes deep enough, it will basically be unregisterable (sp?). Haven't seen the car, planning a possible trip on Saturday to look at it. The owner stated there wasrust on the back fenders, and some on the rocker panels that will eventually need to be looked at if I planned of keeping it as a daily driver - whatever that means.

Guess I'm hoping that someone will look into their crystal ball and know what he means, in order to help me figure out what else to look for.
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  #7  
Old 05-20-2006, 03:29 PM
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the two places listed don't really compromise the safety. rust around the rear fender is usually from leaky back window seal.

the rockers will rust first around the jack points for some reason, and it really doesn't usually coorelate to other places on the car. i think the metal there is thinner or perhaps it is vulnerable cause it was welded there.

floors are a bigger concern. i have found the drivers seat will sometimes begin to fall thru the floor on a car that looks really good from the outside because of leaking windshield letting water under the mats.

and i have never seen one one break in half yet. but it crossed my mind in my 62 fintail when i drove along with my hand on the joint between the door and roof and could feel it working over dips in the road!

take a hard look at the floor under the drivers seat area. any little rusty spot there that is visilbe likely will conceal a weak area big enough to run your leg through up to your gludius maximus.

good luck

tom w
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