Sheet metal stock to rebuild?
 

My 380 has some massive cancer that needs to be repaired. I'm talking holes the size of a size 7 shoe and larger than my fist!

What gauge sheet metal should I pick up to cut/form?

I'd use 18 gauge mild steel sheet metal for repairs. Just cut out the rust and mig weld the patch right on.

Good Luck... Rust holes are a b**ch!

Are you talking on the outside body or the floor and structure ? 16 gauge on the floor and even 14 or 12 in some areas.

In my opinion, maybe 16 gauge for the rib structure and possibly the firewall, but the floor pan I would bet it was originally made in 18 gauge metal. I doubt you would ever use 14 or 12 gauge stuff. 12 gauge is 0.104" thick and you could stick weld that all day long. Problem is, finding something to weld it to. With the original metal being 18 gauge (or maybe 16 gauge) and you'll burn through it trying to stick weld it.

I would still use 18 gauge rolled steel because you can form it easier than 16 gauge or thicker especially if you don’t do this type of repair that often. I would also possibly use 20 gauge if the body lines become too intricate. Welded in place these patches would be strong.

The trunk area has the most amount of rust, looks like 16awg to me.

Also, what type of coating is on the lower rockers where the jack holes are at?

Is this the area your looking at?

http://www.californiaclassix.com/images/c30-16.jpg

I have used 3M Rocker Panel Spray before and works great. Just paint it over with the color you want.

http://ec1.images-amazon.com/images/...CLZZZZZZZ_.jpg

That's the stuff. :)

We are prone to use 12 and 14 gauge around areas where control arms attach and seats and seat belts. Overkill in those areas is not a bad thing as we do this for a living and you can't be too careful IMHO.

I see what your saying about those areas... I'll have to agree then. :)

Luckily almost all the suspension is okay. The front has the four subframe mounts... and two of the bolts for the rears are missing. I'm not sure how I am going to be able to fix that.

Show a pic, maybe someone can give a suggestion.

I'll get some pics in the morning, it's an odd problem.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...nz/BadSub1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...nz/BadSub2.jpg

Anyone? :(

Well...coming from the UK, as I do..I have welded dozens of chassis.
You have, it appears lost the mounting pocket with it's captive nut to anchor the sub frame mounting.
Is there any lower metal left ?

Personally, I would cut back to solid metal, make a cup to fit with a nut welded in the bottom of the cup.
Or.....weld on a cup and cut a slot out of the lower side so you can slide in a nut...mount the sub frame to it and then spot weld the nut through the slot.....remove mounting bolt and fully weld nut to pocket floor....install a used bolt into the nut just short of poking through...no threads exposed....to prevent weld splatter getting in the nut threads.

Found that with mig welding, a product called NAPA ENVIRO SPAT work good to reduce splatter on nearby metal.

BTW....The floor for the nut needs to be 1/4 inch steel. There's a lot of braking thrust put through that mounting.


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