paint gun recommendations
 

I'm a hobbiest mechanic/restorer and would like some paint gun recommendations. I did some painting many years ago, but I know much has changed since then. I'm looking for a gun that I can use for touch up, bumpers, rocker panels, etc. I have a small compressor that is rated for 4.3 SCFM at 40 psi and 3.1 SCFM at 90 psi. My guess is that this is to small for the newer HVLP guns. I'm hoping to avoid having to buy a larger compressor/tank (I just don't have anymore space in my shop) Can anyone recommend a traditional style (or a very small HVLP) gun that will work with my small compressor?

Thanks in advance.

J. M. van Swaay

Go to a local autobody supply store and tell them what you need to do and see what they recommend. We use all Sata gravity HVLP's, but they are very pricey for a part timer, and you can probably do just as well with a much cheaper gun. Sorry I don't have the answer to your question, but there are SO many choices out there you need to talk to someone who sells the product. If you get a good recommendation, you might even be able to find it on line cheaper.

Thanks for the reply.

Yesterday, I did visit a local paint supply shop. I did just what you suggested. I told the guy the exact specs on my air compressor, what I wanted to do etc.... He showed me a couple of guns and said either of them would be a good choice. When I read the spec sheet, both guns required twice the air volume that my compressor was spec'd to deliver. Maybe I got the wrong guy.......glad I didn't buy anything. I'll probably try somewhere else......

I wouldn't even use a detail gun with that small a compressor. You're going to have to upgrade to at least a 30 gallon, 60 prefered. A decent gun for lower volume compressors would be the Astro Evo LVLP, my shop sells it for $120, I've got one, amazing gun for the money. Seems to be a SATA clone.

Thanks for the replies. I think I will probably wait till I remodel/drywall the garage/shop.

In the meantime, I got a painter recommendation from one of the the supply houses I visited. I'll give him a try with a bumper for my daily driver. He was very willing to do painting on parts that I remove and then reinstall. He also has an interest in MB's. If it works out well, I might just have him do my paint work

Thanks again for the replies.

Time to resurrect this thread.

After about a year of looking, I finally bought an E500. Like most, it has the typical scuffs and scrapes on the bottom of the bumpers. I have my shop cleared out, so I think I'm ready to revisit my painting aspirations.

I'm a phone call away from buying a SATA minijet IV--anybody have any last minute comments?

Also, the bumpers on this car are victims of a "scuff and shoot" by an exotic car dealer. I would like to prep down to the plastic to insure good adhesion of the new paint. any recommendations on how best to do this?

Thanks in advance.

J. M. van Swaay

I'm not a pro, but have done some painting. I use a DeVilbiss Finishline gun. Works good, has a bunch of tips, and I use the bags so clean up is easy. On plastic pieces, I like to use Bulldog adhesion promoter. Just my $.02

Is something like this best bought new, or is it usually safe enough to buy used paint guns? If I decide to try painting, I'd never do enough of it to justify buying new equipment.

Deego, I asked myself the same question. I decided to buy new. For me,it wasn't worth the risk of getting a gun that has damged or dirty nozzle/tip parts. From what I understand, proper atomization is critical to getting a good finish. Because I'm inexperienced with the HVLP type guns, I wouldn't know if If I had a defective gun.

Also, the SATA minjet 4 is very popular among woodworkers. I'm an avid woodworker as well as a hobbiest mechanic so this tool is a good fit for my shop.....

I wondered if these were the same as ones I've read about in Fine Woodworking. What kind of money is required to buy something simple, but worthwhile?

Most hvlp guns are air hogs
The Devibliss 670plus is a great gun and uses less air
You can use it for repars and full paint jobs
but smaller tuch up guns will use alot less air
especially with a .8 tip as compared to a 1.4 on larger guns
Also the 670 lays down clear as good as any
The gun is important but to get a good job means practice
i used cheap guns and did good paint jobs
The finih line 2 gun kit is a great deal for dual purpose
One thing to look at is keeping the water out of the gun
use a portable seperator at the gun thats a big problem
Also keep the area clean at the work site (no dust)
Tack rag work piece and also use solvent to degrease job
also ground work piece keeps static dust out of paint
Set your gun pressures with trigger pulled and gauge at gun
finally if using bc/cc paint two good wet coats of clear no more
also let bc dry for a half hour before doing top coat
What I am trying to say is there is alot of things besides a gun that goes into a good paint job
Bottom line is I used a Harbor Freight with a .8 tip small gun and did lots of repairs and was more than satisfied for a $30 investment

What about the compressor? What size/capacity air compressor did you use with that?

Myanoch--thanks for all the tips. I understand that operator skill is a big part of getting a good paint job. Believe it or not, I've seen some paint work done with a rattle can that looked very very good..... I plan to do some "practicing" on an old daily driver....

Dee8go--the Sata Minjet 4 is available for just under $300, a bit pricey, but for the woodworking I do it's probably worth it. (I attached a picture of my latest project) Although I'm skeptical, the air requirements specified by SATA fall within the range of my smaller compressor.

I'll provide an update after I've had a chance to play with this new gun....

I used two 2hp compressors hooked in one line
This made a big difference you can see pictures of the car on restoration page tread "finallly gettin a coat of paint"
The pool table looks great nice job
You have no problem paining the car with work like that
good luck

Just noticed this thread.

I would recommend the SATA guns even though they cost a fortune these days.

They do spray better than anything else, but they have one advantage people who work in a shop sometimes forget--all of the spray parts use machined surfaces. There are no rubber gaskets in the guns. This makes cleanup much easier for the novice. The only non-metal part on most of their guns is a teflon gasket around the cap. That is also almost solvent-proof. They are just easier to clean and keep clean. I love those guns.