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#1
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Opinions on rust - w123 rockers
Hi,
My 85 300D looks like new up top, but there is a lot of rust in the passenger side rocker. It is almost at the subframe mount screw, and so I need to take action quick. I would like to know what the best method and course of action would be best. Id also appreciate an idea of how much cost Im looking at. The car is solid elsewhere. Ive prodded around a LOT, and though I dont have good pics beyond these yet (the battery died and is charging - will post more/better tomorrow). I know there are lotds of knowledgable folks in here, so I look forward to your advisement. First some pics of the car itself: Thanks!!! JMH
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Current Diesels: 1981 240D (73K) 1982 300CD (169k) 1985 190D (169k) 1991 350SD (113k) 1991 350SD (206k) 1991 300D (228k) 1993 300SD (291k) 1993 300D 2.5T (338k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k) Past Diesels: 1983 300D (228K) 1985 300D (233K) |
#2
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I am nost worried about safety and structural integrity. I look forward to advice of work and action, as well as any insight on cost. Thanks again!! JMH P.S. Ill post more pics tomorrow.
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Current Diesels: 1981 240D (73K) 1982 300CD (169k) 1985 190D (169k) 1991 350SD (113k) 1991 350SD (206k) 1991 300D (228k) 1993 300SD (291k) 1993 300D 2.5T (338k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k) Past Diesels: 1983 300D (228K) 1985 300D (233K) |
#3
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That's a mess.
I would be most worried about the trailing arm mount, while its hard to tell from a picture it looks like its not far from being a structural issue at this point. As far as fixing it goes you have to cut out all the rust, fabricate and weld in patch panels. FYI its been my experience that there is usually about twice as much rust actually present than you can see with a visual inspection, if the visual hole is 2X2 expect the patch panel to be 3X3 or even 4X4. Some people here advocate using rivets and epoxy to hold patch panels in place, I don't have any experience with this but I don't see why it would not work for sheet metal repairs. I've done quite a bit of rust repair like this and I can tell you its dirty, labor intensive and tedious work. Many body shops won't even attempt it. I'd guess it would cost 3-6K dollars to properly deal with the rust on your car. I'm amazed anybody would actually consider attempting to fix rust like this on a W123 - why not move onto something more modern? |
#4
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Answer: Re: Used $100.00 on the fog light only
This is structural.
Cutting and welding is the only option. Have a great day.
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ASE Master Mechanic asemastermechanic@juno.com Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 1984 190D 2003 Volvo V70 2002 Honda Civic https://www.boldegoist.com/ |
#5
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Terminal.
If it was a coupe or wagon it "might" be worth while to cut and weld sections from a good donor. Is it possible to pass a NJ inspection with rust like that?
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Over 21 years I owned several: w108 w110 w111 w115 w116 w123 w124 w126 w212 |
#6
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You guys are runnin' from a bit of rust like that? Up here in the land of snow and road salt, rust is a fact of life. Every Spring, Canadians wake up from hibernation, wash their cars, admire the paint and then curse like pirates with bad hangovers at all the rust they didn't see growing all winter.
Kidding aside, there seems to be a structural concern with some of that rust. But if you have time, patience and some skill, I would wager you can keep that car on the road for a few more years yet. I had a W123 280E. It was far worse than that. So's I gots me a mig welder, some beer up at the farm and welded a new floor in. It took me 3 days, but the car was kept on the road for at least another three years (sold it after that, and yes it passed safety). Get 'er done! (Me in the 280E). P.S. Just watch the undercoating while you weld, it can get hot and start smoking...
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Chris 2007 E550 4Matic - 61,000 Km - Iridium Silver, black leather, Sport package, Premium 2 package 2007 GL450 4Matic - 62,000 Km - Obsidian Black Metallic, black leather, all options 1998 E430 - sold 1989 300E - 333,000 Km - sold 1977 280E - sold 1971 250 - retired "And a frign hat. They gave me a hat at the annual benefits meeting. I said. how does this benefit me. I dont have anything from the company.. So they gave me a hat." - TheDon |
#7
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I'm looking into the same issue.. or considering how I want to atack the rust on my 240... the big question I have is how did it get there, as all of it seems to be from the inside of the car out...
I would guess that a DIYer would be able to fix it, It may not be "factory" but serviceable.. or at least that is my goal. safe, and sound, just not looking quite like it was when it left the factory... heck, otherwise my car woudl be scrapped, so anything is a step ahead.. and I seem to like doing it the hardest way imaginable..
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46 WDX Power Wagon 84 300TDT daily driver |
#8
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Just an update, took it to a local body shop where the owner has a car (2 actually) just like mine. They cut, welded, rustproofed, etc., and it is great. Very tight, formed perfectly, etc.
doesnt quite look like new, but it doesnt matter as it is under the carpet. Very solid though.. can't complain. Decent price too, they chipped and pulled and cut out to fresh metal, but the areas were not that terribly large... Thanks, JMH
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Current Diesels: 1981 240D (73K) 1982 300CD (169k) 1985 190D (169k) 1991 350SD (113k) 1991 350SD (206k) 1991 300D (228k) 1993 300SD (291k) 1993 300D 2.5T (338k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k) Past Diesels: 1983 300D (228K) 1985 300D (233K) |
#9
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What did that repair job cost you, if you don't mind me asking? I'm curious what type of ballpark I'm looking at for a similar problem with mine.
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#10
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JH,
Yes, i'd like to know how much they charged you too. i just paid $250 for non-rusted sheet metal...basically 1/2 of the left side of my 87 300D from a dismantler. bob |
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