http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/240-D-Non-Turbo-Diesel-Automatic-Runs-Great_W0QQitemZ300149059607QQihZ020QQcategoryZ6329QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewIte

I haven't had a chance to inspect many 123's in person. Would the rusty jack points on this car be a huge concern? Otherwise looks ok to me (maybe not for $3999 though!)


The link's not working... it's ebay#300149059607

hi mike,

having purchased my 300dt from an ebay seller who claimed "light surface rust", i would be very leery of buying a car that i have not personally inspected. right now, i've been dealing with rust removal and repair for about hte last 3 weeks. mostly research the prior 2, and actually cutting out stuff this past week. im new to all of this so its a pain, but actually kind of interesting all the same.

oh, your link does not work.

buy a rust free car that you can inspect. it will save you a ton of headache.

you can check my progress at biodieselbob.blogspot.com

Here's the proper link:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300149059607&ru=http://motors.search.ebay.com:80/300149059607_W0QQfromZR40QQfviZ1

If it's got that much rust there, how much rust is in the undercarriage? I would say quite a lot. I wouldn't pay for that car without looking at it first.

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- Brian


1989 500SEL Euro
1966 250SE Cabriolet
1958 BMW Isetta 600

My '79 240D appeared to be rust free when I bought it. However as I started working on the car and getting to know it I found a huge rust hole under the battery box, a smaller but still substantial section of rust in the left rear wheel well and some rust on the very bottom of the doors that is only visible on the inside. Most of this can probably be repaired but it will be a lot of work. I would recommend against buing any car with rust on it. I would rather get a car with a bad engine and tranny and replace those than deal with rust.

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Sedecrem

82 300SD 290k(needs engine swap)
79 240D 354k with new heart transplant w/220k
82 240D w/auto tranny soon to be manual 4 speed

It is not "what you see is what you get", but "what you see is what you get plus you get what you don't see". Guaranteed to be more rust in the bottom of that car and the rear fenders have probably been repaired. Secondly, I think the price is way out of line. With no rust,a 1980 with a four speed and with those miles I say $3500.00. With evidence of rust, plus an automagic I would think $2500.00 is the very top, and only then if I can guarantee myself there is no hidden rust in the floor, trunk and firewall.

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Junqueyardjim
Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis



1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA

2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage,
Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it!

Always buy a rust free car with OK paint and a good interior. The rest is just mechanical parts that are available and not too expensive. Paint, body work, and interiors are the road to hell!

You are in the south, be patient, the right rust free one will show up.

No matter what goes wrong with my 240D, I always think, at least I am not dealing with rust!

Good luck!

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2002 E320 Sedan 93K Designo Mocha Black Metallic!
1995 E320 Wagon 205K Black Wagon
1982 240D 183K SloPoke

I believe each of these cars are the final production year for that model.

here's what I'm dealing with:

Rust damage --- what's patchable and what needs welding?

my blog:
http://www.biodieselbob.blogspot.com

my problem areas are the spring perch which i ground down some more as well as the seat cross support to the inner rocker panel channel. the rest is just a matter of cutting out panels and welding and/or expoxy adhesive with rivets. the tricky part about the floor panels is that its so close to the wires, vac tubing and gas lines.

bob

I had a 240D with an automatic...they are just too slow for modern driving situations.

I live in western PA and you had to plan your trips mostly because of the hills. If you were at a stop sign and saw another car coming in the distance...don't go. My wife was afraid to drive the car because it was so slow...0-60 mph in about 30 seconds!

I replaced it with a 1987 300D Turbo and I've never looked behind me again because I pulled out too soon in front of another car.

If you must have a 123 diesel, go for the 300D 5 cylinder Turbo. You may pay a bit more, but driving the car won't be an adventure in fear! Better yet, look for a 300E gas or 1987 300D turbo...you'll be glad you did. The 124's don't rust like the 123's either!

Just my 2¢ worth...

The Tenor Man

I spoke with a guy today that's a little closer to home. He has 3 240's for sale, ranging from 'very nice driver' to 'as close to new as a 25 year old car gets' (his descriptions!) I'm planning to go look at 'em on Saturday. All three are autos. As for being too slow, I've driven a very tired 300 wagon(non- turbo), and it seemed to have enough power for most driving situations. Besides, I drive a Semi truck for a living, and a truck takes far longer than 30 seconds to get to 60, even empty! The main reason I'm mostly looking at 240's is to avoid the climate control garbage, and keep everything else as simple as possible. The extra room in the engine compartment looks nice too from a DIY mechanic point of view.

Mike
1964 Chevy Biscayne 85K
1988 Yugo GV(no kidding!) 207k
1989 Honda Pacific Coast 162K

Bob..
WOW, it sucks to be you huh? I'll definately be on the lookout for any rust. I know what it's like dealing with rust from road salt. I grew up in southern Ontario, Canada. My Mom, who still lives up there, tells me the paint is starting to bubble along the bottoms of the doors already on her '04 Civic!

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Mike
1983 Mercedes-Benz 300SD 270K
1960 Ford F250 62K
1990 Mazda Miata 156k

The thing is Bob, it's not that I'm lazy, it's that I just don't care.

MM-

In your area you should be able to easily find a nice ride. If it turns out to be a 240D auto, you might think about converting it to a stick. It is an easy , one-weekend conversion, once you locate a donor car in a boneyard.

Rick

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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)

If you look closely at the pictures of the rear wheels you can see bubbling along the fender arches. It looks at if it may have been resprayed.

I was not really considering that e-bay car... Just using it as an example.

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Mike
1983 Mercedes-Benz 300SD 270K
1960 Ford F250 62K
1990 Mazda Miata 156k

The thing is Bob, it's not that I'm lazy, it's that I just don't care.

This 300TD wagon with rust recently sold for $11,600 on eBay. To his credit, the seller disclosed the rust in his description and sent me pictures upon request. Who knows what rust remains to be found...

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1983 300D