Remove the window seals to repair the rust - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Chad300tdt · #1 10-12-2007, 04:20 PM

Here's a few pics to show how the rust you see is always the tip of the iceburg. I've heard some people trying to get around removing the windows to repair the rust around the seals. Just look at what would have been missed and allowed to continue to rot if the windows were left in.

You can see the damage to the spare tire well area due to the damage at the window sill.

I did the repairs with POR-15, handformed sheetmetal, JB Weld, PopRivets, Bondo, Spot Glaze, Primer, Base coat and Clear. I hope to have my wagon back on the road by Tuesday evening.

Ever closer to a rust free Mercedes in the northeast!

That panel between the horizontal trim and the window opening was painted with color matched base coat and clear coat in spray cans from automotivetouchup.com. I am impressed. It will be beautiful after a light sanding with 1500 grit and some rubbing compound to bring out the gloss.
As with any paint job, the prep is 90% of the finished job.

Once I have the car back together, I'll post some pics of the car outside in the sun. I think the color may be slightly off due to the original paint being faded from age. It's tough to tell in the light of the garage. But, I'm not in search of a $5,000 paint job, just a clean looking daily driver.

Chad300tdt · #2 10-21-2007, 09:44 PM

Here are the pics of the wagon with everything back together and the paint repairs buffed. I still need to replace the tint to match the other windows.

I am very happy with the results of the automotivetouchup.com color matched spray paint.

OldPokey · #3 10-21-2007, 11:59 PM

You did that with pop rivets and Bondo? Wow!!!

Chad300tdt · #4 10-22-2007, 07:47 AM

I used JB Weld to "glue" in the metal with a few rivets. The bondo and spot glaze are minimal. The repair areas weren't structural, so I thought I'd try this type of repair. It would have been alot more invasive if I had welded the metal. The JB Weld is great. It's tougher to sand than Bondo, but much stronger and you can feather its edge with sandpaper smoother than Bondo.

JB Weld can be used to fix cracked blocks and can be drilled & tapped to hold screws so I figured it would be fine for this use.

oso · #5 10-30-2007, 11:18 AM

Looks great! My wagon has just a small spot under the rubber strip on the top of the door(above the window). I've seen some stuff at AutoZone that promises to CONVERT rust into a paintable surface on small repairs. Ever heard of that?

Chad300tdt · #6 10-30-2007, 11:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oso

Looks great! My wagon has just a small spot under the rubber strip on the top of the door(above the window). I've seen some stuff at AutoZone that promises to CONVERT rust into a paintable surface on small repairs. Ever heard of that?

Thanks. I have, but it doesn't last. I've tried a few different brands. Then I found out about POR-15. It's worth every penny. They have a metal ready solution to kill the rust and etch the surface leaving a zinc coating (primer). Then the rust preventative paint is what keeps it from coming back.

Dee8go · #7 10-30-2007, 01:17 PM

I am impressed, Chad. Great job! Thanks for posting the pictures. Did you replace the rubber around your doors and windows while you were at it? I've got to do that on mine soon.

Chad300tdt · #8 10-30-2007, 01:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dee8go

I am impressed, Chad. Great job! Thanks for posting the pictures. Did you replace the rubber around your doors and windows while you were at it? I've got to do that on mine soon.

Thanks Dee8go. I replaced the seals around the quarter windows with this job. I got them from Phil at Fastlane. I replaced every other seal but the hatch and hatch window, which are fine, a few months ago (including a new windshield). Also did the sunroof seals, cleared the drains, lubed and adjusted. I currently have a leak-free wagon.

Dee8go · #9 10-30-2007, 04:24 PM

Did you get the OEM seals or aftermarket ones? I've heard people say the after market ones don't work very well.

Chad300tdt · #10 10-30-2007, 04:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dee8go

Did you get the OEM seals or aftermarket ones? I've heard people say the after market ones don't work very well.

I heard the same stuff so I didn't risk getting aftermarket. The OEM seals might be more expensive, but I don't think I'll ever have to replace them again. (on this MB anyway)

My brother wants a 300CD and I almost have my wife convinced to get a 300DT.

She's having trouble letting go of the Acura.

Dee8go · #11 10-30-2007, 05:20 PM

Did you say you got them through Phil? About how much did that cost roughly? I need a hood pad, too. I assume the kind with the heat shield are the better way to go? At least I don't have to clean off the old one. My hood is new and never had one on it before.

Chad300tdt · #12 10-30-2007, 05:30 PM

Fastlane had the quarter seals for $350 for the pair shipping included. You could probably find them slightly cheaper, but it's good to support the home team when you can.

I got the hood pad with the shield too.

Dee8go · #13 10-30-2007, 05:36 PM

Yes, I agree. I'd like to support the sponsors here, too.

Cr from Texas · #14 03-05-2008, 07:19 PM

Chad,
I'm impressed and need some guidance in preping my 83 300D for repaint. It looks like you removed the aluminum trim that frames the glass on the outside, right? I know how to remove it but I'm concerned that putting it back after painting might damage the new paint. Did you remove all of it? Same question regarding the polished and black trim on the drip rails. It comes off pretty easy, but can you put it back after painting without damage? My polished trim is very milky looking and other threads indicate this may be hard to remove, polish, etc. What did you do? Anyone else have any guidance?
Charles

Chad300tdt · #15 03-05-2008, 10:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cr from Texas

Chad,
I'm impressed and need some guidance in preping my 83 300D for repaint. It looks like you removed the aluminum trim that frames the glass on the outside, right? I know how to remove it but I'm concerned that putting it back after painting might damage the new paint. Did you remove all of it? Same question regarding the polished and black trim on the drip rails. It comes off pretty easy, but can you put it back after painting without damage? My polished trim is very milky looking and other threads indicate this may be hard to remove, polish, etc. What did you do? Anyone else have any guidance?
Charles

Charles,

I did remove the aluminum trim on the quarter window when I replaced the window seal. It was tougher to remove than to replace (I tapped it back on with a small hammer and a block of wood). The horizontal strip at the base of the window, which is attached the same way on all the side windows, was more of a concern for me since you have to align the trim into the clips properly so you don't scratch the paint. The aluminum trim that frames the top and sides might be easier to mask off and paint around, unless you're changing the color. If you have to remove it, I would make sure the paint has cured completely before trying to put the aluminum back on. As long as you don't kink or twist any of the trim when you remove it, it should go back on without gouging anything. I also would not attempt to remove the drip rail trim along the roof line. I haven't polished my aluminum but there are a few threads here with the steps others took to accomplish it. I believe it requires several graded steps of fine sanding to a polished finish.

I hope this helps.