Hey guys,

Can someone give me some advice on rust? I've got myself a 1994 e320 and it's pretty beat up. Does anyone have any advice for removing rust from different parts of the car, such as axles and suspension pieces (the whole arm and rod assembly)? I've got a Dremel and some wire brushes, and the plan is to disassemble and clean them off piece by piece. Finishing them off with a coat of enamel or something. I'm wondering if there's a better way?

This car is kind of a restoration project, so I'm prepared to sit there and clean diligently if that's what it takes.

A little about my car. It was a family car, first driven by my dad (who got it used), then me while I was in high school, then my brother while I was away at college, and now it's come back to me. At the moment it's got a little over 150,000 miles, but I think it's got more life in it.

The benz has seen its share of winters so, as I said, rust is an issue, requiring liberal use of PB blaster and occasionally a MAPP torch for stuck bolts. I'm just about done replacing it's brakes (all four corners). Though, does anyone know where I can get a good deal on some sl600 calipers? Front and Rear (320mm front rotors and 300mm rears), thanks.

Rex - check out this video from Powerblock TV on rust removal. You are only limited by the size of container you have. Played with this on the 500SE, super inexpensive way to remove rust.

VIDEO

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VERY COOL! Thanks a lot. I think my dad has a battery charger he used for his boats batteries during the winter. Does this sound like the same tool? Otherwise, how much will a battery charger set me back?

Do it right and use this:
http://www.por15.com/
You can beat on this stuff with a sledgehammer and not hurt it.

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2007 C 230 Sport.

Well I have had my charger for two decades, think it was $50 back then. They are probably $90 now at Harbor Freight. Actually have one larger then they were using - the kind on wheels, but still allows the amp setting. You can probably buy a two amp charger for $20

Yes POR is good stuff and have used it - sometimes you have to take the cheap small road

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Someone explain to me what this is, what to do with it, and how it works?

buy some and read the instructions -- you will be amazed

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That's a very interesting video. Great way to do smaller parts that have lots of nooks and crannies that are hard to reach with a grinder. I'm definately going to try this.
Meanwhile, to address the OP's main question, I'd simplify the whole thing by breaking the discussion down into 2 areas of rust removal: Rust on the sheetmetal or on parts that can't be easily removed from the car, or which are not necessary to remove for the results you want (springs, eg.), and those that can be easily removed. Both can benefit from mechanical or chemical removal.

Rust on sheetmetal can be removed by several means, all of which I've used with great success:
- Grinding with a hard grindstone or sanding disc (mini grinder 10,000RPM or drill)
- Cleaning with wire disc or cup brushes (mini grinder, drill)
- Sandblasting, either pressure or siphon
- Chemicals, such as POR15 (I've not used this, but I have used metal prep, avaiable from body shop supply stores) or many other 'rust conversion' products (these work by converting rust to a hard, paintable surface, OK for everything but finished body panels or parts that you want to 'shine' like new).

Obviously, off the car parts can be done using any of these methods, and I'd add this electrolytic method covered in the video to the list (if it works). I do a lot of rust removal on my stationary bench grinder with wire wheels. I also have used a stationary belt sander.

If you are working on panels that will eventually get primed and painted, or which will require welded in patches, the grinder/sander/wire-brush/sandblast methods seem to work best for me. The choice of technique depends on the thickness of the metal. Like the guy on the video notes, it's always best to avoid removing what I call 'parent metal'. Those exhaust manifolds he's handling are over 1/8" thick, and they look better all ground and smoothed out anyway. The 'A' arm he dipped could be sandblasted in a cabinet in under an hour (if you had one, that is. I made my own from an old army locker)

You need to pay attention to the kind of finish coat you're going to use when selecting how to remove rust. Some of the chemicals may not work well with the primer, and often, the pits are too deep to get rust out with mechanical methods. Many areas need both grinding and chemical action.

I'm going to have to get rid of a lot of 'Florida-seacoast-salt-air' rust on my 560SL, in the spring. For much of this job, I'll load up my pressure sandblaster , jack up the car onto stands, and clean away 90% of it in areas like the front end and body-floorpan areas that the grinder can't reach. I'll slather many places with chemical remover or converter underneath, prime with Corlar primer, paint, and undercoat (BTW, flexible seam sealer, 3M, makes a fantastic undercoat, very much like Mercedes uses). Rust on the finished body is another story, but that will be 99% grinding in preparation for bodyfill. Hope this helps...

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Donbryce = good response

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tenebras,

read my blog at biodieselbob.blogspot.com. i am at the welding phase right now. after reading your questions, you really need to see what ive documented

bob