Okay,hope someone has an easy fix for my 1995 C220.Had rust starting around left rear wheel well about 4 months ago.Sanded it out,was rusted through in a couple spots,put a wire mesh patch in and fiberglass,finished it off with bondo,primed and painted.Thought I did a pretty good job for a rookie body man butnow I see it is coming back!What can or should i do to get rid of this?I know cutting it out and welding in a new piece is probably the best but this might be a little more than I want to take on myself.Any ideas or suggestions?Thanks in advance,I'm sure I am not the only one that has run in to this.

Re-do the patch with POR-15 and use JB Weld instead of Bondo. Mix the JB Weld and let it sit until it gets to the consistency of body filler and use it the same way. JB Weld resists moisture so it won't act like a sponge like Bondo does. JB Weld is tougher to sand but the edge feathers better than body filler. Your patch will last a very long time.

If the hole is small enough you can use POR-15 with their fiber sheets to bridge the hole.

For larger holes you can use JB Weld to glue a sheet metal patch in from the back. Here's a thread that shows how a patch using this technique can look.
Remove the window seals to repair the rust

__________________
Chad
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys

products did you use Chad?I went to their website and see they have a lot of different stuff there.Not exactly sure what to use,and thanks for the JB weld tip!

I would get this ($145):
http://www.por15.com/prodinfo.asp?grp=FPTRK&dept=11

It has EVERYTHING you need to do quite a few repairs. All you would need in addition to this kit is some JB Weld (I always buy the "Shop Size"), maybe some Spot Glaze Putty, a spreader, sandpaper and your touchup paint.

When you're done using a can of POR-15, use some plastic wrap under the lid to keep the lid from fusing to the can so you can open it again.

I bought all my primer, base coat and clear coat from automotivetouchup.com
They will match the color code on your car and will even make adjustments if it doesn't match exactly.

__________________
Chad
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys

I will definetly check out the por 15 stuff.Do you finish over the jb weld with bondo or spot putty for a finished surface?Thanks for the suggestions.

Some spots I was able to use just the JB-Weld (it takes 30-40 minutes for it to set up to the consistency of body filler), on others I used a thin layer of body filler to smooth it and spot glaze to fill the left over pin holes. Use multiple layers of a self-etching sandable primer too.

Also make sure you don't sand through any of the POR-15 or you will compromise its protection against rust.

__________________
Chad
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys