I'm in the repainting phase now. the previous owner/seller had the vertical panels painted with a shade of blue metallic that looks great from 25 ft away. but if you get close, you can tell its a different shade. not to mention, on the edges, it is crusting/flaking off. so i know its a matter of time before bigger chips come off.

i bought some rattle can paint from paintscratch.com. i compared it to the paint in the door jamb and its pretty accurate. but again, the PO's paint job does not match. i did a little section on the rear passenger side and i was laughing my ass off when it dried. can't wait to get grief from the co-workers!

so at this point, i'm starting to read more about painting options. since this is a project car for me, cheap options like roller brushing do appeal to me hey, the corvair project car looks eons better than mine: http://www.rickwrench.com/index79master.htm?http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html

questions:

1) i believe it would be in my best interest to completely remove the PO's bad paint job. so assuming i get his clear, base, and primer coats off, how far do i go down into the original paint job? down to the primer?

2) related to #1, if a body shop paints a car, do they remove only the clear coat? or do they go down to the primer and/or bare metal?

i really like the idea of a roll on job...i know, its ghetto, but i dont want to invest more in equipment and a spray booth than the car's salvage value. so the fun question is:

3) what colors would look good with a dark blue interior? while i like the diamond blue metallic DB-355 paint, i dont think rustoleum makes this. and personally, i dont like blue on blue. i would really like to paint it silver. what do you guys think? and what do you guys think of other colors that might look good?

thanks for any and all advice and opinions

bob

morning bump

Since you are just trying to make your ride presentable and not showable, why not do just the prep work and let a decent body shop do the sanding, priming and spraying?

Most body shops don't like to follow someone else's prep work but you could check with them and see what they would recommend.

I don't like dealing with the metallics and clear-coats ('74 280C anthracite gray, metallic clear-coat) so I'm stripping the chrome, windows, bumpers, grill, badges, lights, etc., and letting the body shop deal with the sanding and painting.

I'm sticking with the same color so they don't have to mess about with the underhood and door jamb areas as much.

mike,

yeah, i should shop around to some local body shops. i'll take a few trips in the 'hood to see whose interested and how much. but i do have some sheet metal left that I'm going to try this rustoleum brush on idea. frankly, it intrigues me

For the question of how many layers do you take off:

As few as possible. Do not take off the first primer (it is called e-coat) unless it is totally destroyed. It is where most of the corrosion protection is, and it is the coat that has the toxic (lead, cadmium) anticorrosive pigments in them.

I do recommend looking for a bodyshop. IM paints like rustoleum will not hold up on a car body, esp if you want them to look good. The technology in that paint relies heavily on thick films for durability. Not a good look on a car. Use auto paint. It is very different material.

__________________
___________________________________________
2010 Toyota matrix

'93 500 SEL
A bad addiction. Takes all of my cash.

'12 Volvo S80 T6
Needed something that wasn't as hard to deal with as my bad addiction

'18 Mazda Miata
No more boring cars for everyday transport!