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#31
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Same with mine. Last corner cracked. Then safelite came out the next day and replaced the whole thing.
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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg 1995 E420 Schwarz 1995 E300 Weiss #1987 300D Sturmmachine #1991 300D Nearly Perfect #1994 E320 Cabriolet #1995 E320 Touring #1985 300D Sedan OBK #42 |
#32
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Are you guys sure you had your glass centered? Were you kinda sweating that last corner (the rubber was binding up) or did it just pop with no warning?
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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??) |
#33
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The last corner was pretty hard to install even after it cracked.
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#34
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It takes a very light touch. Actually, my wife does the pulling and I do the pressing
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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??) |
#35
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I m gonna do this soon and I read the DIY and FSM procedure but my question is where exactly do you put the pull cords?
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1986 300SDL, 211K,Dealership serviced its whole life 1991 190E 2.6(120k) 1983 300D(300k) 1977 300D(211k) |
#36
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The pull cord (s) is/are put basically where the glass will be..or a little towards the side it will be pulled towards...
Someone above sounded like they used two cords... I have only seen or used one...which meant pulling to the inside as the windshield is going in from the outside... |
#37
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As well as putting pressure from the outside inwards, I find that you have to put some pressure downwards as the rope is being removed. The window has a tendency to creep up. This upward creep can cause the last bit at the top to be tight and possibly cause breakage of the glass.
Also make sure that the trim is fully seated in the rubber seal before installation otherwise it can pop out. Pay particular attention to the corners. Remember a lubricant that is used to get the trim in the rubber will also help it pop out if it has not dried or evaporated. I use isopropyl alcohol and leave it overnight. |
#38
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Installing w123 windshield
I paid to have my back glass installed by someone who has been doing it for 23 years... the rope technique looks simple but he said it's very important ot keep it very very lubricated (like soap & water or glass cleaner which he used)... he had two plastic spatula sticks and when he put on the back glass it was perfectly centered... he had me put a bit of pressure from the outside and in less than 5 minutes we had it back in perfectly.
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My Mercedes-Benz Homepage and W123 Owners Photo Gallery and W111/W112 Coupes & Convs Gallery 2005 Northeast GTG and 2005 Mid-Atlantic GTG and Summer '09 Central FL GTG on YouTube Last edited by thebenzbar; 03-22-2009 at 10:38 PM. |
#39
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I would pay someone to put it in but dont have funds to do that so I think ill learn and dont think its something I cant do
plus one of the windshields was free and only paid $50 for one.
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1986 300SDL, 211K,Dealership serviced its whole life 1991 190E 2.6(120k) 1983 300D(300k) 1977 300D(211k) |
#40
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Answer
Quote:
I use dish soap and water 50/50 mix to lubricate. I also Lubricate inside the window glass mounting SLOT and trim barb mounting SLOT of the windshield seal. |
#41
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Just to be clear is the body mounting slot is that where you put the windshield or somewhere else?
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1986 300SDL, 211K,Dealership serviced its whole life 1991 190E 2.6(120k) 1983 300D(300k) 1977 300D(211k) |
#42
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No, that's not where you put the glass... the body mounting slot is exactly what it reads = the slot for the windshield frame on your car... this is where the gasket seals into via the rope method (as you slowly pull the rope out, the body mounting slot of the rubber gasket seals into the windshield frame). I hope it makes sense.
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My Mercedes-Benz Homepage and W123 Owners Photo Gallery and W111/W112 Coupes & Convs Gallery 2005 Northeast GTG and 2005 Mid-Atlantic GTG and Summer '09 Central FL GTG on YouTube |
#43
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Quote:
yeah like soon after I posted that I thought of the old one i cut out and remebered that there was a slot on the seal that was attached to the fram of car. Do you need 2 pull cords or can I put in just one pull cord the length of the rubber seal?
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1986 300SDL, 211K,Dealership serviced its whole life 1991 190E 2.6(120k) 1983 300D(300k) 1977 300D(211k) Last edited by Oracle12345; 03-23-2009 at 09:46 AM. |
#44
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Quote:
Look at the DIY thread drawings Step# 15 through 20 http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W123RearWindowSeal |
#45
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So, the cords are coming out of the bottom of the windshield?
Would this procedure be the same for the front or is it a little different? Assuming the 4 to 5 inch overlap is referring to the cords crossing in the groove at the bottom of the gasket.
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AJ 1985 300D (SOLD) |
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