bubbled paint below trunk lid badges on 123 body

I posted this topic on the "detailing" section of the forum but wasn't getting the response I was hoping for. The paint on my '80 240 is perfect except for a couple of bubbled up places below the "diesel" and "240D" badges on the trunk lid. Has anyone else experienced this? Are there rubber grommets that go on the badges that need to be replaced? I am sure that whatever sealed the badges to the trunk lid needs to be repaired. Also, how do you get the badges off without messing things up?
thanks,
mike

[Aaron]

Mike,

There are little plastic "sleeves" which push into the holes then you push the badge into them. I had the same problem on the first 6.9 I had and also on my current 6.9, right around the badge. In order to remove the badges without messing anything up, you need to be real careful and use a small flatblade screwdriver and gently pry the badge up, a little on the left and then a little on the right, then a little in the middle. If you break the badge, they can be had cheap--especially from junk yards! I think it just happens because of the natural effects of air on eposed steel (such as when it's drilled into for such purposes). Some cars are just lucky!

[psfred]

Once you get the badges off, you will need to gently sand or scrape the rust off, inside and out (!), then coat with two coats of conversion (etch) primer -- "turns rust to black primer" on the can -- any parts store will have it.

After the primer has comletely dried, sand flat (don't sand through the primer!!) and use correct color of touchup paint to repair.

The conversion primer will help prevent a re-occurance.

Make sure you get primer and paint on inside and outside surfaces, including the edges of the hole, or the rust will just "creep" back.

Peter

Thanks for the advice. I do have a couple of questions though:

When I look at the inside of the trunk lid I can't see an easy way to get to the trouble spots. There are a couple of small holes but not complete access.

How would you suggest sealing the holes up once I am ready to put the badges back on? I assume that the moisture is getting in via the holes for the badges. Would new plastic sleeves do the trick or should I try something else? I want to stop the moisture from getting back in there for good.

I hate the idea of sanding and repainting any part on the car. i am afraid that I won't get it to look right or that the new paint will stick out. I searched and searched the internet for original paint colors and found this site:

http://www.paintscratch.com/

Any other ideas would be greatly appreciated.

mike

[psfred]

Mike:

Ah, and that is the rub -- you will need to make a tiny brush out of a pipe cleaner or something to get inside the holes since there is a solid panel behind.

The primer and paint protect the hole -- what usually happens is that the little plastic sleeve shrinks or gets worn so that it fits loosely. This allows grit to grind off the paint, and the bare metal rusts. MB dips the cars, so the paint can run in and out of the holes. Not so easy to do once assembled.

My brother poured paint into the insides of the fenders and hood of his 1965 Chevy pickup after taking a good look -- decided spray wouldn't do it. Never rusted, but a pain.

If the idea of hand-painted touchup bothers you (it can look pretty bad, I admit!) you can have the entire trunk lid professionally painted to match the rest of the car -- any decent body shop can do this. Won't be cheap, though, just to fix some surface rust.

Peter

[william rogers]

I have done considerable body work and painting and would highly reccomend that if you have never done it before and you want the repair to be unnoticeable that you take it to a body shop . Blending paint especially older paint that has faded is a job for a pro, if it's base coat clear coat as I would guess it to be then a home repair will stand out like a sore thumb......
William Rogers.....