I know I need a left pan replaced in my 230S but I'm not sure about the right. It wasn't nearly as bad as the left, but its urgency depends on the labor for the right. I've priced pans and they're not too expensive, but what about the labor to cut one out and have a new one welded in? I'm looking at about $200/side for the parts. I'll take the seats and carpet out, making that part cheaper.

I want it done properly but want some sort of idea how much money I should budget for that particular project. While I would love to do it myself, I have neither the tools or the expertise, so in everyone's interest it's better that I outsource this; that is of course unless someone here wants to do it.

Regards,

David

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2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles

1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles

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That would be interesting to know. My 200D W110 needs new floors (same part numbers as the W111) and a new outer rocker panel.

Besides the floor You should prepare to weld the new support bracket as well. Here´s the view of the W115:

..and here´s job done:

I am planning to do my floor panels this Spring or summer. For a DIY, it is a fairly big job because you typically discover other rust problems in the sills, fire wall, and beams when you start to grind the floor panel out. Professionals cab charge all over the place because some are weary of additional rust and prepping, so shop around.

I have personally done several floor panels on MGBs and truthfully, all cars are about the same when it comes to floor panels. The hassle with the 111 is that the panels are big and you have to be careful about alignment when welding them in. general steps are:

1 - Take out all interior panels
2 - Cover all glass windows with thick cardboard or other protection
3 - Get an angle grinder and CAREFULLY start cutting and grinding out the old floorpanel. Watch were the sparks fly to. If you have NOT covered your glass, you will see molten metal embedded in your windows. I would do one side first and wait with the other side until you have the new one properly positioned. The other side can serve as reference example.
4 - Repair all other rusted metal in beams etc. You may weld in new beams, or make your own patch panels depending on severity. make sure you keep sizes correct. When welding ALWAYS have a bucket of water and a wet rag within grasping distance (underside tar can and will catch fire with prolonged welding).
5 - Prep all areas (like shown above) that will be covered by floor panel in good corrosion resistant paint. Don't be stingy. This is your one chance to be better than factory.
5 - Lay in new floorpanel and check fit. Don't be surprised if an OEM MB floor panel has a lousy fit. They are all made on different molds with different steel, so warping can occur. Plus in the old factories, they did use hammers to get it all to fit. You can do too.
6 - If you have a reasonable/good fit, drill small holes and secure floor panel with self tapping screws on all areas.
7 - Drill larger holes in side of floor panel where you want the spot welds to go. Do NOT drill through beams,but only through floor panel metal. You want to fill the holes in the floorpanel side flange with weld material to create a spot weld. Mostly this step is easier done with the panel out. Then reattach the panel using the self tapping screws back again.
8 - Fill holes with weld material
9 - Tap all flanges tight to the body (heat will warp metal)
10 - paint floor panel

Be carefull with welding too fast/putting too much heat in the floor panel. It may buckle/change shape due to the fact that the heat can relief material stresses in the panel, which were caused by the press.

To save money, buy a $100 angle grinder at home depot and do step 3 for sure yourself. It will also ensure that the shop will not damage anything else. Prepping it all takes way more time than the actual welding.

Good luck,

Bert

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'70 111 280SE/c 3.5 (4 spd manual) - sold
'63 MGB
'73 MGBGT V8

Great posts! Anyone have the part numbers handy for the floor pan and supports? Sources other than MB dealer?

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Lots of M3s and a '62 220 Heckflosse

Are those bracket supports custom-fashioned, or bought? If bought, where?

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1983 240D 3.0T 4-speed manual, now sold

1989 Subaru GL Wagon 5-speed Touring Edition

If you fabricated that support beam you've got serious metal working skills!! Great job dude

Thank, but unfortunately I did not and do not have. I ordered them from MB Classic center to local distributor. I did the angle-grinding and finishing and a skilled metal-master did the welding.

If there´s a spare part number, there is a very good possibility to get a new spare part. That bracket consisted of two inexpensive parts, here You see the main part number seventeen.



If You do not have the spare part cataloque, the russians kindly ignore the copyrights and provide the cataloques:
http://www.auto-parts.spb.ru/cat/cats/m.mycat?Form

The numbers for W111 brackets are:
A 108 610 01 13 the drivers side
A 110 610 08 13 the fearers side

And the front floors
A 108 616 01 67 floor left
A 110 616 08 67 floor right

They are not necessarily the newest numbers - another number has probably replaced them for some reason..