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#16
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#17
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Waxoyl isn't available everywhere, which may explain that partly. Am not familiar with Dinitron, is it available in the Netherlands?
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Strelnik Invest in America: Buy a Congressman! 1950 170SD 1951 Citroen 11BN 1953 Citroen 11BNF limo 1953 220a project 1959 180D 1960 190D 1960 Borgward Isabella TS 2dr 1983 240D daily driver 1983 380SL 1990 350SDL daily driver alt 3 x Citroen DS21M, down from 5 3 x Citroen 2CV, down from 6 |
#18
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Frosts are a little bit like Eastwoods - they do in fact stock some of their products. This is a bit of a God send as I'm a bit of a fan of their stuff.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#19
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This is what happens to old Waxoyl type stuff
Continuing the rust proofing product discussion here is a picture of what happens to old Waxoyl type stuff (I don't know for sure whether this was indeed Waxoyl applied to the lower parts of my engine bay but this is typical of what this sort of product looks like when it has been on the car for ages)
By applying these sorts of adhering oils to cavities and other parts of your car you are essentially creating an automotive form of fly paper - lots of muck and dust will stick to the rust proofing product. Eventually they will dry out and form this sort of crusty custard appearance. I am not sure whether at this stage this sort of coating is helping with rust prevention anymore as it suspiciously looks like a type of emulsion to me. This could indicate that there is water in there too. I don't know this for sure though... If you are going to apply rust prevention products inside cavities make sure that you do not block up any drain holes - you will cause more damage if water can not escape from the structure as intended. For areas that you can reach or see a tip that I picked up is to use old engine oil as a rust prevention remedy. This is widely known about and used both here in the Netherlands and in the UK. It is cheap and generally considered to be just as good if not better than a bought alternative. I have seen people using old engine oil as a cavity spray too - but it is really messy. Your car will be leaking oil for weeks and weeks! Please note - when I say old engine oil I specifically mean old engine oil from a petrol engine. I am unsure whether old engine oil from a diesel engine is suitable as I have heard that this is corrosive - I'm in the process of checking this out. In my experience the use of old engine oil tends not to be so sticky after it has dried off a bit. You don't get too much of a fly paper effect. I guess there will be some who say that underseal should be applied to surfaces you can see and reach instead of a more fluid oil preventative solution. I have never liked underseal though as it tends to get used as a cover it up and hide the rust solution. I would never buy a second hand car that has been recently undersealed for exactly that reason. In my opinion there is no such thing as a quick and easy spray and forget solution when it comes to rust prevention. There is nothing that can beat regular inspection and conventional repainting remedies.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! Last edited by Stretch; 10-12-2010 at 05:12 AM. Reason: spelling |
#20
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it's Dinitrol isn't it ? .It's a danish invention and probably the best thing ,apart storing your car in Saudi Arabia , to prevent rust.
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#21
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(I've tried to find out how long they've been making the stuff but it doesn't say on http://www.dinitrol.co.uk/ - I thought it was an "invention" from the early 1990s / late 1980s - but I'm probably wrong)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#22
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FYI - Home made Wax oil
There are a lot of other recipes too but they are pretty much the same:
http://www.mgexperience.net/archive/waxoyl/15334
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1981 300TD "The Green Lantern" 1980 300TD 1983 300D Euro "China Cat" |
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