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Another Rusty Surprise
Today I was going to adjust the bumper end cap on my 300CD and when I removed the trunk panels to get to the bolts from inside I discovered that the little rust bubbles on the rear wheels arch areas were worse than I thought.
I dug out a lump of Bondo from each side that was sculpted to the shape of the body. So I guess I'll be doing some body work again. Here's the holes so far. I have more grinding to do before I patch them.
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Chad 2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE 1998 Acura 3.0 CL OBK#44 "Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.) SOLD 1985 300TD - Red Dragon 1986 300SDL - Coda 1991 - 300TE 1995 - E320 1985 300CD - Gladys |
#2
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I just completed that exact repair! Check it out a few threads below yours at
240D quarter panel rust repair |
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I saw your thread before. Nice work. I wish I had a welder.
I'll be doing the same type of repairs that I did on my 300TD. There are posts here on that one too.
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Chad 2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE 1998 Acura 3.0 CL OBK#44 "Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.) SOLD 1985 300TD - Red Dragon 1986 300SDL - Coda 1991 - 300TE 1995 - E320 1985 300CD - Gladys |
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Crud crud, I just looked beneath the trunk lining on the driver's side of my car and it looks like I have a similar issue to you , sans bondo. This spot is definitely an achilles heal on these cars. I've seen the thread(s) on how you tackled your other rustiness and I'm looking forward to see how this turns out. Good luck .
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1984 300D, 228k, Light Ivory, Java MB-Tex |
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Today I installed the new bumper strip retaining clips and got the bumper strip back in place.
DIY - Attaching w123 Bumper Strip Then I finished grinding the rust holes in the trunk well areas, treated them with POR-15's Metal Prep and fabricated the metal patch for the driver side hole. I'll be going back out later tonight to coat everything with POR-15 Rust Encapsulator Paint which should be all cured and ready for the next steps tomorrow. I'll post the update when I'm done with those steps.
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Chad 2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE 1998 Acura 3.0 CL OBK#44 "Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.) SOLD 1985 300TD - Red Dragon 1986 300SDL - Coda 1991 - 300TE 1995 - E320 1985 300CD - Gladys |
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Yes yes yes a familiar spot indeed - luckily some kind Swiss bloke (well probably Swiss) welded in some new bits for me before I bought my W123. I suppose you're all aware this happens as a result of leaking rear window seals / aerial seals / and leaking trim seals? I bet you all do...
...I'll get my coat.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
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Quote:
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Yup, those are all common leak sources that can cause this sort of rot. The trunk seal and rear window seal were replaced by the previous owner which I know from looking through the stack of maintenance records that came with the car.
Today I pop-riveted and JB Welded the patch in the driver side area. I coat the edges of the hole larger than the patch and coat the back of the patch with the JB Weld, then pop-rivet it in place. After that sets up, I coat the whole patch with the JB Weld. I use duct tape underneath to contain any epoxy that drips through. Driver side. Driver side from underneath with duct tape dam. Once this all cures, I'll coat the bottom side of the patch with JB Weld to seal all the edges. Then I'll coat it all with POR-15 Rust Encapsulator Paint before continuing with shaping the metal piece for the fender lip. The passenger side hole is all cleaned up and coated with POR-15. I still need to fabricate the metal patch for this side. Passenger side. Passenger side from underneath. I also finished grinding the jack hole areas. I used a 3/4" plumbers brush to clean the scale from the inside of the holes, then treated everything with Metal Prep and coated it with POR-15. I still need to do 2 more coats on these before top coating. Then I'll cover it all with rubberized undercoating. Passenger side. Driver side.
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Chad 2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE 1998 Acura 3.0 CL OBK#44 "Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.) SOLD 1985 300TD - Red Dragon 1986 300SDL - Coda 1991 - 300TE 1995 - E320 1985 300CD - Gladys |
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Oh yeah those too - the list goes on - I suppose the trunk seal could let water in too...
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
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Chad-
Nice work on the wheel well/fender- a very elegant solution, but why not use the correct epoxy like Fusor 108B instead of JB Weld? I did the same spot on my 240D 6 or 7 years ago and it still looks great. I used 3 or 4 pieces to achieve the same thing- yours is much better.
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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??) |
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Quote:
I used the JB Weld because I can get it at the local Pep Boys for $12/10 oz. More importantly, I didn't know about the Fusor 108B until your post. I just Googled it and they sell it at TCP Global. I'll try it out next time. How long does it take the Fusor epoxy to setup? With the JB Weld, I can mix it up, let it set up for about 20-30 minutes and it's the consistency of body putty.
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Chad 2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE 1998 Acura 3.0 CL OBK#44 "Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.) SOLD 1985 300TD - Red Dragon 1986 300SDL - Coda 1991 - 300TE 1995 - E320 1985 300CD - Gladys |
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Fusor 108B is the medium speed stuff, usually 20-30 min at "normal temps" . In FL in summer it's more like 10 minutes. They also have slow speed and fast speed stuff. They sell a fancy application gun for it, but I just squeeze it out of the tubes in 2:1 and mix it like bondo. It's good stuff when you don't want to weld.
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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??) |
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Today I was able to finish everything to the point of self etching primer. I still want to spray some high build primer over it and wet sand that before I begin the base and clear coats. Then I'll spray some rubberized undercoating underneath and in the wheel wells.
The inside is all top coated and ready for reassembly once the underside is finished. Driverside inside the trunk: Passenger side inside the trunk: Driver side underneath: Passenger side underneath:
__________________
Chad 2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE 1998 Acura 3.0 CL OBK#44 "Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.) SOLD 1985 300TD - Red Dragon 1986 300SDL - Coda 1991 - 300TE 1995 - E320 1985 300CD - Gladys |
#14
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Nice work, that's looking much better! , one thumb for each side! I think I'm going to pay to have mine addressed. If I had a workspace it'd be a different story...
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1984 300D, 228k, Light Ivory, Java MB-Tex |
#15
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X2 looking good - make sure those drain holes are unblocked and that any water that does get in drains through them before you put back in your rear wheel arch plastic liners. This might sound like a bit of a dumb comment - it would of course be better if your car didn't leak - but if it does settle in there... well you know don't you 'cos you've just repaired it...
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
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