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  #46  
Old 01-23-2011, 01:42 PM
Stretch's Avatar
Gettin' outa chokey
 
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Location: Between a rock and a hard place (Back in Holland at the moment)
Posts: 13,986
Thanks for posting that picture - it doesn't look like the W126 is cursed with the spring pockets on the W123 - so may be that is why my W123 was rusty and your W126 wasn't.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!

Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #47  
Old 01-23-2011, 01:42 PM
JamesDean's Avatar
Electrical Engineer
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 5,001
Update:

Welding is pretty much done up in the front driver side area:

As you can see there were some small cracks/holes that needed patched in the body tube. Nothing as bad as the passenger side one though. I've got a list of grommets that I'll be ordering soon, new ones for (hopefully) both body tubes, and the rear wheelhouses. I'll also remove the ones on the rocker panels and spray some coatings up in there for good measure, pictures looked clean previously but always good to protect.
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82 300SD 145k
82 300SD 265k
87 420SEL 230k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
90 560SEL 154k
91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k
93 190E 3.0 235k
93 300E 195k

Last edited by JamesDean; 01-23-2011 at 02:02 PM.
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  #48  
Old 01-23-2011, 01:43 PM
JamesDean's Avatar
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Location: NE Ohio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Army View Post
Thanks for posting that picture - it doesn't look like the W126 is cursed with the spring pockets on the W123 - so may be that is why my W123 was rusty and your W126 wasn't.
spring pockets? Do you happen to have a picture? I've never seen a 123 fender-less.
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82 300SD 145k
82 300SD 265k
87 420SEL 230k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
90 560SEL 154k
91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k
93 190E 3.0 235k
93 300E 195k
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  #49  
Old 01-23-2011, 02:12 PM
Stretch's Avatar
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W123 No wing pictures

Well you've shown me yours...









The engine is out - hence the higher height at the front

Pictures of the engine bay are here:-

W123 Engine bay paint advice req'd

Spring pocket pictures here:-

W123 hood / bonnet spring pocket refurbishment
Attached Thumbnails
300SD Rust Restoration Project-w123-no-wing1.jpg   300SD Rust Restoration Project-w123-no-wing2.jpg   300SD Rust Restoration Project-w123-no-wing3.jpg   300SD Rust Restoration Project-w123-no-wing4.jpg  
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!

Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #50  
Old 02-02-2011, 07:05 PM
JamesDean's Avatar
Electrical Engineer
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 5,001
Update:

Ground down some of the welds, sprayed the body tube with some internal frame coating stuff and applied liberal amounts of the All-Metal body filler stuff to seal any holes and protect the metal from the elements.


Then after that hardened, first coat of the Rust Encapsulator stuff...

One more coat of the Encapsulator, then two coats of chassis paint, two coats of rubberized undercoating and this area will be done. I also plan on doing the same procedure to the rocker panel area between the wheels. I've already hit up the passenger side with two coats of encapsulator. I'll paint it once everything else is done and I can mask off the sides of the car.

Need to put in an order for some rubber pieces from Mercedes. Need some replacement jack pads and all the grommets.
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Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability!

82 300SD 145k
82 300SD 265k
87 420SEL 230k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
90 560SEL 154k
91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k
93 190E 3.0 235k
93 300E 195k
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  #51  
Old 02-05-2011, 10:16 PM
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Location: NE Ohio
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Update:

Almost done with welding in the rear drivers area, just more patch piece to place and a whole lot of coatings to apply.

Gotta put my order in for grommets and such. Then finish up this side completely. Put it back down. Finish off the other side and start mechanical work.
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Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability!

82 300SD 145k
82 300SD 265k
87 420SEL 230k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
90 560SEL 154k
91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k
93 190E 3.0 235k
93 300E 195k
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  #52  
Old 02-06-2011, 02:27 PM
Stretch's Avatar
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You must be a man with 3 arms - a welding torch in one hand, a work light in another, and a camera in the last one!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!

Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #53  
Old 02-10-2011, 04:44 PM
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Err, lots of effort.....

But, WHY so many LITTLE Patches and plates!!??

--Its like a Quilt!

Why didnt you cut the whole lot out and use as few in number of plates as possible to repair....

Looks as though you made LOADS of work for yourself with all these 2" plates and patches!

I recently did these rear quarters on my W123....

Cut the whole sill off from wheel-arch to 18" forward, and from half-inch down from the weather-strip under door all the way, deleting that rust-trap the jack point on the way...

The inner sill was also cut away and one continuous piece shaped around the sub-frame mount and put in its place and a new outer sill then made--All in one piece, and welded Continuous Seam Welded top sides and bottom...
The inner wheel-arch was then made and the outer sill cut at 1/2 inch intervals and folded over inner wheel-arch and welded just as M.B. did when they made the car....

Total number of new plates each side, = 3
.
(Continuous seam welding is a legal requirement here in UK, or you'll not get a valid, yearly MOT on the car!)

One big plate is MUCH stronger than loads of patches, much QUICKER and neater too.....
--Try it for yourself!
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http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z...0TDnoplate.jpg

Alastair AKA H.C.II South Wales, U.K. based member

W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K,
-Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog.

W114, 1975 280E Custard Yellow,
-Great above decks needs chassis welding--Really will do it this year....
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  #54  
Old 02-10-2011, 09:58 PM
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I'm fairly new to welding so it seemed to me that it would be easier to work in smaller sections than try to form up metal to the area that I was working in. It worked fine as far as I can tell. None of the panels that I've patched are structural, merely skin. Yes, it does not look very attractive, however the overall goal of this project was to get the car back on the road and have it last a few more years.

The structural areas that were welded, large heavy gauge steel was used.

The passenger wheel well could have been done better, yes. I agree. The driver side, comparatively speaking, is much better. It was the one of the first areas we did so, you learn as you go. I think the only places where a LOT of small patches were used was the rear inner wheelhouses. The others were patched as thats all that was need, a small hole developed and it was covered.

Ohio doesnt have any such vehicle inspections as the UK does or even other US states. But, I'm confident that these welds are sufficient, I'll reinspect the whole car in 3-6 months time for any deficiencies.

Thanks for bringing up the tips and ideas. I do appreciate that.
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Cruise Control not working? Send me PM or email (jamesdean59@gmail.com). I might be able to help out.
Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability!

82 300SD 145k
82 300SD 265k
87 420SEL 230k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
90 560SEL 154k
91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k
93 190E 3.0 235k
93 300E 195k
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  #55  
Old 02-10-2011, 10:22 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: NE Ohio
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Update: Finished welding the drivers rear wheelhouse and started to apply the filler/sealant however ran out. So I placed an order for some more as well as a few cans of undercoating.


I also put in an order for grommets and other misc clips from Mercedes so I can fully finish off the car.
__________________
Cruise Control not working? Send me PM or email (jamesdean59@gmail.com). I might be able to help out.
Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability!

82 300SD 145k
82 300SD 265k
87 420SEL 230k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
90 560SEL 154k
91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k
93 190E 3.0 235k
93 300E 195k
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  #56  
Old 02-14-2011, 07:15 PM
jmk jmk is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Cleveland, OH
Posts: 342
There is one definate advantage to the small patches--they keep more of the electrocoat intact.

England does not have anywhere near the rusting problem that this part of Ohio has. Metal patches in high stress areas like wheelwells can rerust rather easily. Coat them well before you take the car on the road!

And he is right about no inspections. I remember see a Chevy Chevette (the US answer for the Trabant) leaning 15 degrees to one side while riding on the freeway. Needless to say, the struts have seen their better days. Sometimes I hear metal hitting rotors from cars stopping when I am standing at a traffic intersection. Brakes can be optional in Ohio.
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  #57  
Old 02-15-2011, 10:54 PM
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How sandable would that All-Metal stuff be?

Would I need a grinder to knock it down?
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  #58  
Old 02-15-2011, 11:02 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: NE Ohio
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Its pretty easy to sand. Similar to Bondo. I used a 60 grit sanding wheel (aka dragon disc or something like that) on my angle grinder. It took it down pretty quick. You'll be able to sand it with a standard sander and the usual tools
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Cruise Control not working? Send me PM or email (jamesdean59@gmail.com). I might be able to help out.
Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability!

82 300SD 145k
82 300SD 265k
87 420SEL 230k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
90 560SEL 154k
91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k
93 190E 3.0 235k
93 300E 195k
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  #59  
Old 02-16-2011, 07:21 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2011
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Thanks a lot JD!

Nice work on the SD...hope it lasts you for years to come.
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  #60  
Old 02-16-2011, 06:41 PM
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Electrical Engineer
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 5,001
Update:

Finished off Battery Tray Area, Coolant Bottle Area:

I couldn't quite get the plastic cover to seal up the area as nicely as it used to due to the differently shaped metal. So I grabbed a plastic zip-lock bag, closed up all the open holes with it. Then sprayed it with rubberized undercoating. The battery tray sits on top that plastic cover so it presses down on everything keeping it in place more so than it already is. Seemed to work pretty well IMO. Maybe not the most ideal solution..but this isnt a show car. LOL

Finished off the drivers front areas and body tube areas. Still gotta put in the grommets yet. I ordered replacement jack lift pads from Mercedes, they're currently on back order from Germany. I'm replacing the floppy lift pads (front) with the type that are in the rear of the car. I had to epoxy the rear passenger pad in place due to the repairs made. I was able to salvage the drivers rear and relocate it to the front drivers point.

And finally, finished the rear driver wheelhouse and jack area. Still have to apply the rubberized undercoating but everything else is finished on it. Grommets are all back where they should be (minus the large jack pad).
__________________
Cruise Control not working? Send me PM or email (jamesdean59@gmail.com). I might be able to help out.
Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability!

82 300SD 145k
82 300SD 265k
87 420SEL 230k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
90 560SEL 154k
91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k
93 190E 3.0 235k
93 300E 195k
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