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300SD Rust Restoration Project #2
Hey everyone,
I'm back again! This time doing some rust work on my gold 82 300SD. Its been garage kept most of its life so there not going to be a huge amount like my green SD in my other thread. (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/bodywork-repair-paint-tools-tips-tricks/288453-300sd-rust-restoration-project.html) Like my last thread on this topic there will be a LOT OF PICTURES. Especially when my new DSLR comes in... I've decided to take a little bit different route with this car than my other. I've cut the car up into 6 zones. I plan on working front to back, passenger to driver side. http://i.imgur.com/5BQf4l.jpg I expect zones 1,2 and 5 to be the most work. I dont anticipate much in 3 and 4 other than body tube coatings. 5 is by far the worst. My system is going to be as follows: 1) Grind/Remove rust/rusty metal or Remove surface rust/failing coatings 2) If needed weld in new metal, if not, clean up 3) [Eastwood Internal Frame Coating with Nozzle] Spray Internal Frame Coating on inside if applicable. 4) [Eastwood Rust Encapsulator] Coat metal in 2-3 coats of rust encapsulator 5) [Eastwood Brush on Seam Sealer] Use Brush-able Seam Sealer to seal. 6) [Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black] 2-3 coats Chassis Paint 7) [Eastwood Rubberized Undercoating Aerosol] [Eastwood Rubberized Undercoating Paintable Quart] 2-3 coats of Rubberizing Undercoating 8) 2-3 coats of custom mixed paint to match the car's original color In my previous SD thread I used USC All-Metal to seal and fill in gaps. I think exchanging the seam-sealer and the usc all-metal bondo like stuff will be a good move. The seam sealer seals, remains flexible and is paint-able. I think it will do a far better job than the all-metal bondo stuff. Most of the missing/rusted metal on this car is cosmetic and not structural like the green car was... Some initial pictures: http://i.imgur.com/XW2tkl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/cJrWtl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/cPW48l.jpg http://i.imgur.com/GRCVYl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/z0gYIl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/XHB4cl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/v272Fl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/qv6bil.jpg http://i.imgur.com/Y9KJwl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/hB434l.jpg http://i.imgur.com/p4KABl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/tg2Hll.jpg http://i.imgur.com/S3Hxwl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/M4OIml.jpg http://i.imgur.com/VlCl7l.jpg http://i.imgur.com/CFdLPl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/56KEFl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/a2eRbl.jpg |
ZONE 1 : PASSENGER SIDE: Battery Tray Area, Passenger Side of Sway Bar, Passenger Body Tube/Horn
Initial Inspection: [8-28-11] http://i.imgur.com/oaiCQl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/mM6Jxl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/bIfnBl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/ql9rhl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/2V6HRl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/gVECzl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/rpu49l.jpg After Some Grinding/Wire Wheel: [8-29-11] http://i.imgur.com/Y8suwl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/cvNpJl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/HEY2ol.jpg http://i.imgur.com/7OiUal.jpg http://i.imgur.com/Z8w8Kl.jpg Comments: I was plesantly pleased when I only saw surface rust on the front of the body horn and minor rust under the sway bar. Some minor welding and applications should wrap this area up before the day's end. After Seam Sealer Application:[8-29-11] http://i.imgur.com/9OESEl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/nnx0rl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/LGhYpl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/z4S9Pl.jpg Comments: The seam sealer is best applied with a putty knife and a foam brush to spread it out. I was very pleased with how easy it was to apply. I think it should do much better than the All-Metal aluminum bondo like material. At least I dont have to mix in hardener or anything like that... After Encapsulator First Coat: [8-29-11] http://i.imgur.com/c0Dg2l.jpg http://i.imgur.com/En1APl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/RDFRRl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/1XAYvl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/ZDtIBl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/9peXTl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/qyMTVl.jpg After Chassis Paint Final Coat [8/29/11]: http://i.imgur.com/jbApal.jpg http://i.imgur.com/DCfRUl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/jXvxUl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/bf8Sel.jpg http://i.imgur.com/1ZJMnl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/Jmhmkl.jpg |
ZONE 1 : PASSENGER SIDE: Battery Tray Area, Passenger Side of Sway Bar, Passenger Body Tube/Horn Part 2
After Rubberized Undercoating First Coat: [8/30/11] Comment: I decided to use the nozzle from the chassis paint on the rubber undercoating can. The standard nozzle on the undercoating can has a lager opening than the chassis paint can making it harder to control and make look presentable. Using the smaller nozzle and applying a higher number of coats will achieve the same effect and look much better. http://i.imgur.com/IjFKtl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/UL87Tl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/K6kZKl.jpg After Rubberized Undercoating Final Coat [8-30-11] http://i.imgur.com/tvhFIl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/Exkcyl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/FnKlql.jpg http://i.imgur.com/TnkXnl.jpg After Matched Paint First Coat: [ MUCH LATER ] After Matched Paint Final Coat: [ MUCH LATER ] |
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Speaking of which - can you tell us which products you are using => i.e. link to a product on a web page? Is usc a brand? |
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I updated the first post with all the links to the products. Im very pleased with them so far. They've all received positive reviews on the website as well. |
ZONE 2 : DRIVER SIDE: Fuse Box, Sway Bar and Body Tube/Frame Horn Front Area
Initial Inspection Photos: http://i.imgur.com/kxWEPl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/pxquul.jpg http://i.imgur.com/RBZRpl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/yxmbAl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/1V5Lxl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/hMZkUl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/oxGFUl.jpg Comments: Looks like standing water has rusted a small hole just next to the fuse box, just like on the green car. I'm going to have to remove that cowling piece for further inspection. Its a nice friendly reminder to clean out that area every few months. Similar to the passenger side there is rust around the bottom of the sway bar hold. Shouldn't be too difficult to repair. Same rust bubble on the body tube horn as the passenger side. Most likely caused by the water fall from that drain tube. When I run out of foam brushes (3 left) I'm going to get something to extend the tube down further. I think whatever I get would have to go around the existing tube and not inside. PVC glue should do the trick too. After Wire wheel and Undercoat Removal: http://i.imgur.com/EmTT9l.jpg http://i.imgur.com/vYprsl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/pdKkNl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/Sd1iyl.jpg Comments: This didnt look that bad from the initial inspection shots however after removing the bubbled undercoating its a different story. Theres a decent amount of metal missing from under the sway bay area. I'm not sure exactly why it rusts here. I understand the body horn rust as that drain just pours right on it. |
ZONE 2: DRIVER SIDE: Fuse Box, Sway Bar and Body Tube/Frame Horn Front Area Part 2
After Welding [9-5-11]: http://i.imgur.com/Ux0bpl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/HfmQTl.jpg |
ZONE 6 : DRIVER SIDE: Rear Wheelhouse
Initial Inspection Photos [8/30/11]: http://i.imgur.com/dY0jkl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/a86Tjl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/KB871l.jpg http://i.imgur.com/lHx4Ul.jpg http://i.imgur.com/KKAorl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/Ql1Fml.jpg http://i.imgur.com/CjMuTl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/Rgnv8l.jpg http://i.imgur.com/1Rohml.jpg http://i.imgur.com/I76I4l.jpg http://i.imgur.com/Ro3xhl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/YzqfPl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/HuEoIl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/Uvtgjl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/whAhWl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/3tNYTl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/XnWzEl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/zPWCql.jpg http://i.imgur.com/OKi3sl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/qZq3Gl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/Sxw5pl.jpg Comments: Well this side looks pretty good. I see one spot where it looks like theres rust underneath. I'll hit that with the wire wheel, spray some internal frame coating inside the wheel house. The control arm looks pretty solid, probably hit that with the wire wheel and apply the rust converter/ rust encapsulator / chassis paint. I'll probably hit up the rest of the surface rust in that zone as well. Overall substantially better than the Green SD After Grinding [08-31-11]: http://i.imgur.com/Qkevhl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/Hbt7Wl.jpg Comments: Expected to see the rust above the sway bar but i didnt expect the rust in the front of the wheelhouse. I decided to explore that area because the undercoating didnt quite look right. Seems I was right. Still much much better than the green car. Glad I started on this project early and caught it before it reached green car levels. After Welding [08-31-11]: http://i.imgur.com/5eZlzl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/CO6Q2l.jpg http://i.imgur.com/TkOrll.jpg Comments: Not my best welding work but this isnt structural, simply filling in the metal and sealing up the holes. Once I get all the coatings on, I'll hit the cavity with the internal frame coating. On the topic of coatings I think I'm going to do it this way, 1) Rust Encapsulator 2) Seam Sealer 3) Paint 4) Rubber Undercoat 5) Matched Paint After Rust Encapsulator First Coat [08-31-11]: http://i.imgur.com/1nWxKl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/sgu1yl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/hcKFJl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/dBia0l.jpg |
Thanks for putting in the product links - I too have had very good experiences with Eastwood products. I've not found one yet that doesn't do what it says on the tin - but then I haven't bothered putting undergone on MB undercoating!
PS - If you are bothered about the order in which these posts appear please contact me or a moderator and get them (or me within the specified time limit whatever that is) to remove my posts if they are irritating you. |
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On another note, I should Zone 6 finished today. It wasnt really bad at all. My uncle is going to help with Zone 2,5. Then its off to explore 3,4. From the initial shots it just looks like some undercoating is coming off at the corners and maybe some rust at the very end of the first half of the bottom of the body tube. Maybe thats what I'll do with my quart of rubber undercoating...coat up the tube/horns... The order of the posts is fine, its good to maintain chronological order, especially with comments. Thanks for the heads up and info though! |
Zone 5 - Passenger Side Rear Wheel House Part 1 / 3
After Grinding/Wirewheel [9-2-11]: http://i.imgur.com/kojYYl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/XQ8QJl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/ZGT7vl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/tMDXnl.jpg Comments: Not as bad as the green car. It looks like someone repaired the lower part of the quarter panel where the body cladding attaches. I spotted some blue/pink materials. I had to cut out part of the wheel arc near the molding, should be able to rebuild it with some 22/16ga steel. It'll be hidden anyway so it doesnt have to look amazing, just be sturdy and properly coated. Underneath, the vertical part of the seam is still in tact so thats a plus we'll be able to weld to that. Just need to close up those holes and rebuilt back towards the wheel house. Finally weld the small triangle hole on the front of the wheel house and then coat everything into oblivion. DONE. I can see the path the water took, down the wheelhouse to the front of the car, into the rocker, and rusted out the bottom of it. Some of the water flowed to the rear of the car, but luckily I have sound deadening materials all over so it just sat on that then drained out, no rusting. |
Zone 5 - Passenger Side Rear Wheel House Part 2 / 3
After Welding Today [09-02-11]: http://i.imgur.com/BZ8O8l.jpg http://i.imgur.com/kDPDOl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/IJKqll.jpg http://i.imgur.com/wTn0Pl.jpg Comments: Kind of ugly pictures but the repair went pretty well. I'm doing to have to shave down the lift pad so it fits again. The seam was bumped in to help close the gap, no big deal. I'm going to have to send the car out to be worked on by a professional for rebuilding the arc by the lower cladding piece. Part of the rust is above the cladding and cant be hidden by it. My and my uncles skills are purely functional. Later on I'll take some better pictures when it cools off outside. Every time I walk outside with the DSLR the lens fogs up :/ |
Zone 5 - Passenger Side Rear Wheel House Part 3 / 3
After Rust Converter & Encapsulator Coats [9-4-11]: http://i.imgur.com/mFyr6l.jpg http://i.imgur.com/ryvHEl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/awZ06l.jpg http://i.imgur.com/QgMZcl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/hSV98l.jpg http://i.imgur.com/Zyg6fl.jpg I had to use some all-metal on the back of the rocker panel opposite the jack point as I was unable to get metal up there and close up some minor holes. The combination of all my coatings should be sufficient with the all-metal to seal and protect. After Seam Sealer [9-5-11]: http://i.imgur.com/qhKa5l.jpg http://i.imgur.com/AiDNPl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/TpyiEl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/o2E9gl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/evsW8l.jpg http://i.imgur.com/xJKC5l.jpg http://i.imgur.com/ZrJfSl.jpg Comments: I highly recommend using the seam sealer when doing stuff like this. It takes care of all the small things that can be missed with welding and using stuff like all-metal. Plus when used appropriately it can smooth out the difference between the factory undercoating and the new materials. After Chassis Paint [9-5-11]: http://i.imgur.com/LP57Wl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/HTe5dl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/d3nACl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/j3mZZl.jpg After Rubberized Undercoating [9-5-11]: http://i.imgur.com/ZJtrLl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/LCBCkl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/L5LI8l.jpg Comments: After the smaller nozzle I was using on the aerosol can clogged up I decided to use the brush-able stuff I bought. Its pretty good stuff. The texture and application is much better than the high powered aerosol. Final Comments on Zone: Everything is pretty much done with this area outside of having to shave down the lift pad or even fit a different style one in there (201 or late 126). The car will have to be sent out to a more professional bodyman to repair the wheel arc near the final piece of cladding. |
Zone 3 - Passenger Side Midsection of Car
After grinding [9-5-11]: http://i.imgur.com/5L9T9l.jpg http://i.imgur.com/f6mOGl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/kVIeKl.jpg Comments: It looks like someone tried to jack/lift the car up using the body tubes. Not nearly as bad as the green SD. After Welding [9-5-11]: http://i.imgur.com/j9E8jl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/NYHmsl.jpg |
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