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76 300d Rust repair thread(nice pics)
I want to share the repairs I will be doing on my car and update it as I go.
There is a considerable amount of rust on the drivers side floor board, strangely enough, not on the passenger side. In fact the passenger side of the car on the exterior has no where near the amount of rust that the drivers side does. The rear drivers side pannel is riddled with rust. I will be cutting it all out and replacing it with new material! Right now I am working on the floor pan. So far I have repaired the area underneath the seat bracket. Comments, suggestions, and encouragement welcomed!
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1976 w115 300D |
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Check the frame rail where the steering gear box attaches VERY closely.
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Quote:
Thanks for the tip!
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1976 w115 300D |
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Are you planning to weld between the tacks in these pictures?
I think Mike also means imagine what would happen if the steering box was to let go whilst you're doing doughnuts in the local maccy D car park!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
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Ya those will be welded up, ground down a bit, painted with primer, then as a big "screw you" to the rust, a spray can rubberized coating will be put down . Once its all done some nice new black carpet will go in place.
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1976 w115 300D |
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It's a location not prone to rusting but it is a high stress area. The uni-body structure is always compromised (to a degree) when you have "rust through". Better safe than sorry.
The driver's side (LHD) is usually the first area to show rust. Between minor fuel leaks, power steering and brake fluid leaks the floorboard undercoating is the first compromised. Usually the second is the L.R. quarter panel where the "splash" tends to collect. Last edited by Mike D; 02-20-2012 at 06:36 AM. Reason: Read it again after a cuppa joe! |
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I'm doing similar work to my W123 - well I say doing => it would be nice to find the time! I have spent loads of time removing the Mercedes "fitted" rubber coating from the bottom of my car. There is no way I'm going to put that non see through junk back on there again. The rubber stuff is great so long as no water makes it way between the rubber and the steel. Once this happens you are stuffed. At the moment I'm going for a combination of serious rust removal; zink based primers; paint; and then for the underside I think I'll go for a clear (as in transparent) underseal coating. That way if anything nasty happens underneath I can react quickly with my favourite tool => angle grinder and wire brush attachment.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
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